View Full Version : Things Are Progressing !!!
Ok this is how my new tank is going ....
As I said before we bought a Jewel 260 tank to hopefully turn into a reef / seahorse / and maybe (those few) fish tank.
We've now also managed to purchase the following to go with it.....
Seaclone protien skimmer
Vecton 8 watt UV steriliser
200 watt heater (came in package)
Fluval 303 external filter
Extra power head
Coral sand
few grotto rock
few Tufta rock (not sure which is which)
2 pieces artificial coral
1 piece of barnacle
We've managed to set up all the equipment (except the UV as it kept tripping the electrics)(we think we got water in it when the filter was leaking)(we'll try it again next weekend)but we've left the rock out and it cycling with tap water at the moment.....
I know we need to add declorinator and salt (which order?)
Are these rocks ok to put in my tank?
Will they turn into 'live rock' in time (and when other live rock is in and around them) or are they a waste of space?
How do I know where is best to put the power heads / exit-entry pipes from filter?
Should I still remove the internal Juwel filter?
Is it true I should cycle the tank with fish in?
Anything else I need?
Anything else I need to do?
I'm a pain and maybe I'm asking silly questions but I'd like to get things right rather than asking you all to help me sort it out when its gone wrong!
Thanks for any help / comments you can give !
Cheryl
We've managed to set up all the equipment (except the UV as it kept tripping the electrics)(we think we got water in it when the filter was leaking)(we'll try it again next weekend)but we've left the rock out and it cycling with tap water at the moment.....
Personally, and this is just my opinion, I think if you're running a live system with live rock etc, then you don't really want a UV running anyway. They'll kill off any planktonic life produced by the rock, which means you won't get the benefits from these. Perhaps keep it on standby in case you get a disease outbreak.
I know we need to add declorinator and salt (which order?)
IMO, RO or de-ionised water is a must for invertebrates. Some use tapwater, but you're much safer with RO or DI. Anyway, dechlorinator first, salt second, although it doesn't particularly matter.
Are these rocks ok to put in my tank?
Will they turn into 'live rock' in time (and when other live rock is in and around them) or are they a waste of space?
I'm not sure what grotto rock is, but any artificial rocks may contain plastics that will leach out and pollute the water, especially where inverts are concerned. Porous rocks will eventually turn 'live', but I don't believe Tufa rock is porous enough to turn live. It may become encrusted with inverts and coralline algae over time though.
How do I know where is best to put the power heads / exit-entry pipes from filter?
I'm not really sure. So long as you arrange them so there are turbulent areas, and slow areas of flow, you should be fine (this will allow you to place inverts in places according to how much flow and light they need.)
Should I still remove the internal Juwel filter?
Up to you really. When (if) you revert totally to live rock, you won't want any biological filtration media in the filter, as this will increase the amount of nitrate produced as the end product. Live rock, if stocking is OK, will produce nitrogen gas as the end product. You could keep it for circulation if you liked, although the space may be better utilised by other equipment/better powerheads.
Is it true I should cycle the tank with fish in?
No. You should find an alternative way to produce the bacteria - a cycling product and a bit of dried food should be fine.
Hope this helps. :)
Thanks Preds .... some really useful information
(aswell as the UV info I wasn't aware of !)
Cheryl
No problem Cheryl, and good luck with your tank. If you have any more questions, don't hesitate to post a thread.
I agree with all that Olly has said. First thing I'd do is syphon out the tap water and refill with reveverse osmosis/de-ionised water, either bought from a reputable supplier, of produced from a home unit. Then get your kit up and running and monitor it for a few days. I'd suggest binning the UV and Seaclone and getting something more beefy for skimmong. The Aquamedic 1000 multi is a very good skimmer in my opinion and will hang on the side of your tank.
I'd then add a load of live rock (I got mine from www.stm.co.uk and was very impressed with the quality of rock and the level of service). Again, let it settle for a couple of weeks (and watch the life start to show), then add a few snails and/or crabs. Personally, I'm going to go heavily in favour of snails in my next tank. They don't walk all over your corals like crabs do ;)
At this stage, come back and ask again :D In the mean time, look around... There is a lot of valuable information on this BB. You may feel some of it goes over your head, but stick with it...
Cheers,
Tim
PS - WELCOME!!!!
Garry thomas
28-04-03, 20:37
Hello cheryl, grotto rock is the stuff which cuts your hands to pieces. It comes from germany and is a by product of a certain kiln process. The Tuffa rock is the one, which when you scrape it, it's very crumbly and flaky like chalk. The jewel internal can be removed, it's quite easy to do so. Also as stated the seaclone :wacko: :blink: :huh: :angry: Well shall we say it's not the best, way down there sorry to say. Hope to have helped...
Thanks for all your help guys :D
It's really been useful !
Just one thing though considering I'm filling 260 litres / 55 gallons it would cost me a fortune !
Could I do half and half at first then use RO for water changes after that?
Unfortunately the Seaclone skimmers going to have to stay for a while.
Fluval 303 came with media already in it, it has a layer of porous sponge like material, then a sock of ceramic type and then a last lyer of ceramic.
Is this standard bio or mechanical?
Also which bits should I replace, if any?
Thanks again
Cheryl :wacko:
To be honest, I'd stay patient (not easy, I know :)), wait until the tank has enough live rock, then remove all those types of media from the external, and replace it with chemical media, and perhaps filter floss (which should be cleaned in freshwater on a weekly basis), although I prefer to run without so as not to trap beneficial animals like copepods. Anything else is likely to be designed for the filter bacteria, and even if it isn't, is likely to harbour the bacteria anyway. To most beginners it isn't clear why this is a bad thing, I shall briefly explain.
Live rock is good because, deep down in the rock, it becomes lacking in oxygen (anoxic), and these conditions support anaerobic bacteria which extract the oxygen from nitrate, and release nitrogen gas as the by-product. This process doesn't happen in a normal canister filter, as the environment isn't lacking in oxygen, so the end result is usually increasing nitrate levels.
As for RO, perhaps a kind local reefer will be willing to give you some RO water. I know we have a few Yorkies on this board, perhaps one of them would be kind enough to give you some RO.
Hope this helps.
Originally posted by Cheryl@Apr 29 2003, 22:14
Just one thing though considering I'm filling 260 litres / 55 gallons it would cost me a fortune !
I'd say under £40 at my LFS prices (£3.50 per 5 gallons). Quite cheap in the grand scale of things. And I'd never consider tap water myself. The copper and other gunk in it is very harmfull to some marine organisms, let alone the algae plauges it may casue...
Tim
might be of interest that aqua world produce a small glossy brochure for marine beginners and andy (who is fairly well respected i believe) actually says to start your tank with tap water as some elements in it encourage the cycle -but goes on to say after that use RO water for changes/topping up btw the going rate round here is 2.50 @ 5 gallons
cheers h
Does it say exactly what nutrients in tapwater encourage the cycle? If you're using cured live rock, there shouldn't be a cycle, or at least if there is it should be minimal.
JMO, but I wouldn't put my tapwater anywhere near my marine tank, don't think it's worth the risk, especially if you're using live rock anyway. In a recent (but controversial) study, Dr Ron Shimek says there are too many toxic heavy metals in the artificial salt mixes we use, and if this is true, I personally wouldn't want to risk exacerbating this situation by using tapwater.
basically the article says the first fill should be with tap water as it will introduce some toxins(doesnt specify which) but in minuscule amounts that will aid the maturation process after which use purified water.
to be honest i agree with you and used RO but as i said thats his view and he's quiet respected in the reef world and obviously confident enough to go into print with it
just another view i suppose
cheers h
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