View Full Version : Sump Photos
As being discussed in another thread.
Please put pics of your sumps / refugiums here with as much detail as possible.
I will then clean all unwanted chatter at a MUCH later date. To create one informative thread on Sumps.
Hopefully. Well thats the plan.
Craig
Ps I dont have one so cant join in.............yet.
5061litres
06-07-04, 15:02
I'll be first to start then.
Hi all,
My sump is 30"x15"x15". it has 3 partitions in it. The first chamber, on the left, is where i keep the skimmer and pump. this is where the water from the overflow pipe comes in.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/ssump1.JPG
The water then goes under a baffle, up, and over a baffle into a tray that runs the full front to back of the sump. This tray is made from a piece of perspex and has lots and lots of holes drilled in the base. In this tray is where i keep filter floss to polish the water and to try and stop micro bubbles from going back up into the tank.
The water then flows across a DSB with caulerpa into a corner overflow. this is a small area where the return pump is.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/cornersump.JPG
piping on both sides of the tank is 1"dia. clear tube.
I will amend this post and add pics to the parts others cannot reach shortly.
tony
heres some i took, um 5 mins ago, firstly my MM sump. bioballs, 18in section of caulerpa then bioballs, then pump (eheim 1250) the canister is there as im dealing with some flatties, otherwise it would be clear. bioball sections are wide enuff for my hand to fit in, so thats about 4-5ins. tank is 36by 12wide by 15 deep. runnign a 30gal tank. (will replace this photo cos its not too good)http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/Dsc02093.jpg
then this is my frag/sps tank sump still under construction. same principle but smaller scale. cos its only 24ins long by 12 high and wide. only enuff room for prefilter and small section which curently houses lots of xenia and rock. skimmer sits behind it. outside tank. return is via eheim 1250, Mj 900 skimmer feed. small baffle keeps rocks/sand in place. back and front view. skimmer is only run when im playing!
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/Dsc02091.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/Dsc02089.jpg
here is the start of building my sump
and the finished sump :D
I have split this in 3 compartments and have following kit:
tunze reactor with selonoid and CO2 bottle
1 30inch 25watt T8 power glow tube
tunze 210 skimmer
clerpura growing
eheim 1200l/ph pump for return feed
maxi 480l/ph pump to feed UV filter
Teratec UV filter
Ehiem Stinered glass bio media
carbon
rowa
4 x 8inch computer CPU fans to keep area cool with PC power supply
heres a bit closer pic of sump
simon garratt
07-07-04, 01:28
Ok heres my tecky bit....dragged from Reef-Eden :D
Enjoy.
Controlable flow/ seperator Sump/DSB
I've had a long running discussion going on over this design with several hobbyists since I drew up the plans, as to its effectiveness for feeding the enclosed DSB. The arguments against, are that the DSB should be fed directly from the outflow of the tank and that separating the DSB from the main water flow will reduce its effectiveness or starve it all together.
After looking at various sumps and DSB's I noticed that many DSB's suffer from one or more design flaws that can under certain circumstances negate there effectiveness to just as much 'if not' a higher degree. One concern of mine is the 'what if' syndrome where either the DSB or the tank itself suffers some kind of upset. In this event it would be nice to be able to salvage something of the filtration system or be able to segregate that section off if there was a problem that might affect the livestock. One of my main concerns though, is that we now have a lot higher understanding of the need for strong circulation within many systems (refugium based LPS/Softy set-ups are excepted here obviously due to the need for a more relaxed flow). This need for high turnover puts a large strain on the sump system simply because of the water velocity involved. Typically a sump will be used as an area where we put all our bolt on goodies such as Skimmer, Kalkstirrer, Ca reactor, etc etc etc that rely on being in areas of high flow in order to disperse their output as evenly as possible. Consequently, it is also the area we commonly push water through at an alarmingly quick rate due to the large return pumps we use for system turnover. As such we end up with a slight contradiction in terms. i.e. By definition a DSB needs 'food' to thrive, not just in the form of chemical but solid as well, in order so that it can maintain the high quantities of the worms etc that feed on it. To effectively remove solid waste we have to let the water slow down until the solid stuff falls out of suspension. bit like stirring a cupful of tealeaves. ('As the stirring stops and the waters velocity drops, as does its ability to hold the tealeaves in suspension and they gradually fall to the bottom of the cup.') Its here that the contradiction lies. i.e. 'How can we expect waste/food to fall out of suspension and onto our DSB, when the water in question is whizzing past at some 6000lts per hr plus?. Inevitably only the heaviest particles will settle and the rest is shoved strait back to the return pumps and back up into the tank where we are trying so hard to get rid of it in the first place!. The only way round this apart from having a DSB in the main tank as well, is to separate the DSB from the main sump. As stated before, this also applies if there was problem, and the sump DSB needed to be separated from the rest of the system for a short while.
We also have a dilemma in that DSB's work much better when they are fed highly oxygenated water for the benefit of all the microfauna in the surface layers, which is exactly what we have in our high flow areas but as stated before, these areas are effectively out of bounds for the DSB due to solids not being allowed to fall out of suspension. The only other place in the system that we can find highly oxygenated water is the outflow from the Skimmer. This has a big benefit in that the output has a much lower flow rate than the main sump (unless your using a monster of a skimmer), but at the same time its drawback is that it is very low in food for the bed and its life forms. As I said before, separating the DSB and feeding it separately solves the flow rate problem, and adding water from the Skimmer outflow solves the oxygenation problem. My only other problem then was how to cram all those contradictory requirements into one unit to save space for the rest of the equipment.
This is where the separator design comes in. (See Diagram below).
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/DSCF1321aa.JPG
Key.
Red (unfiltered mucky water).
Blue. (pre-filtered water).
Green. (food laden, oxygen rich, clean water from DSB)
White dotted line. (Water levels with flow running from right to left).
As you will notice. Untreated water (waste laden) flows down the overflows and drops out into compartment 'A' this is then pre-filtered via the use of a large piece of course foam filter mat (cleaned weekly) (NB this Pre-filter has since been removed as un nessesery). However not all of this water makes it to the pre-filter due to the tea-off that steals from the left hand overflow. This 'waste laden' amount is controlled via an adjustable elbow and then drops to the raised DSB compartment 'D', and can be adjusted for flow and consequently food amount by simply adjusting the elbow to divert more or less flow. Under normal circumstances the total amount of water being teed off would be 1/4th the total turnover rate of the sump itself. The remaining 3/4 would be passed through the filter foam and into compartment 'B'. It is at this point that water is taken for the skimmer feed via a 1" bulkhead fitting and hard piped to the skimmer, through, and then returned as highly oxygenated water back to the top of the DSB area as a compliment to the food/waste feed from the overflow. The remaining water then flows under the DSB at high velocity 'C' up, and over the mixer baffle where it is joined by the overflow from the DSB. This outflow is rich in live food for the corals/fish in the show tank and is low in waste due to the settlement and capture of suspended solids and the reduction of Amm,No2, and No3 from the DSB as well. This final mix of skimmed, filtered 'but live food laden' water finally flows under the last baffle where a grill 'E' has been placed to prevent anything (stray fish, or macro algae from the DSB) making its way into the final compartment 'F'. Here there are two 1" bulkhead fittings to take water from this section to the return pumps which are housed away from the sump to keep heat build-up to a minimum. It is in this last compartment, that the Kalkstirrer, and Ca reactor are depositing their output into the high flow where dispersion is at its highest and the auto top-up system will be fitted. Any evaporation within the entire system shows up in this area due to the fixed height of the tank overflows and the designing of the sump baffles.. You will also notice a tray hanging at the output end of the DSB compartment. This is a frag tray I fashioned out of acrylic sheet with holes drilled in the bottom. The top lips of the tray sit just below the surface of the water in the DSB section. This means that water is forced to flow up through the tray and across the top lips where eddies form, giving this area very good circulation for frag's such as SPS corals, at the same time being directly in the path of all the larvae given off from the DSB as food. This tray can be slid along the top brace bars, out of this strong flow at times when propagating softies etc that need slightly less flow to attach properly...(NB. This tray has since been removed to make more space for other equipment)
Flow Diagram (veiw from rear)
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/flow%20diagram2.jpg
After assembly, it was time to test the theory. So I filled the sump to the normal running height. And connected the two Aquabee 3000's, drawing water from compartment 'F' and returning it to compartment 'A'. All went exceedingly well, including having my suspicions about flow rate confirmed. I feel quite confidant in the fact that it would be quite feasible to increase throughput by over 100% without any problems that's up from 6000lts/hr to 12000lts/hr or 3168 gall/hr. One Test I did, confirmed my suspicions over the settlement and flow rate/velocity issue. I poured some muck from my skimmer into compartment 'A' and timed how long it would take to travel the full length of compartment 'C' and inspected whether any of the solid waste had fallen out of suspension or whether it just got pulled along in the flow. To my astonishment the velocity of water along this stretch of the sump (i.e. the widest section) was in excess of 1ft/sec and only the largest of particles stayed in the bottom without being pulled up and over the mixer baffle before ending up back at the return pumps. Although this might seem alarming it should be remembered that this sump is only 12" wide. If I had been using a 24" wide sump this velocity would be halved although in my case this was not an option due to cabinet space. A worthwhile exercise though, would be to look at your own sump to see how fluid flows through it and to determine exactly how much waste is actually making it right through and back to the tank ?. In action this design is quite simply an effort to control free waste levels within the system as a whole, whilst at the same time ensuring that what waste is present, is either directed to where it can be utilised properly or removed from the system via the sponge and skimmer. the key to the course sponge is in cleaning it weekly to prevent it going biological.
Shot to highlight Baffle arrangement.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/2002_0730_225526AA.jpg
The following shots cover various aspects of the design and a section covering the plate sizes is also included should you wish to duplicate this design for yourself.
Fig 1
http://www.reef-eden.net/2002_0730_225556AA.JPG[/URL]
Fig 2
http://www.reef-eden.net/2002_0730_225622AA.JPG
'Fig 1 ' Shows the DSB section raised on the four stilts. these were simply made from Air lift tubing silicone'd to the base of the sump and to the DSB base plate. You will notice that the RH end plate for the DSB is higher than all the other baffles including the LH end plate for the DSB. This ensures that water cannot flow back into the skimmer feed compartment where the beneficial food given out by the DSB would be wasted by being skimmed off.
'Fig 2' Shows a top view with the frag tray in place. The four gang valves at the other end, are for the various RO feeds for auto topup valve and staorage container etc. Water will flow direct from the RO/DI unit to the main input and is then split to the Auto top-up float valve which will be plumbed through the sump back panel at water level in the last (variable) compartment, and the surplus is then sent to a remote storage container ready for use when doing water changes and to feed the kalk stirrer via a paristaltic pump, the fourth valve is a spare.
All the glass used for the internals was 3mm thick. and silicone'd in place using pure silicone sealer. It was not necessary to go thicker than this, as there is no pressure internally against the panels except water flow.
Tank Dimensions 48 x 18 x 12
DSB Base 24 x 11 1/2
DSB RH end plate 11 1/2 x 13
DSB LH end plate 11 1/2 x 12
Baffle RH end 11 1/2 x 12
Baffle LH end 11 1/2 x 13
Baffle Slanted 11 1/2 x 13
Baffle LH far end, raised for 3" grill made from UG filter plate 11 1/2 x 13
The DSB section was then filled with water from my other setup and had a 3" layer of fine Silica sand and 2" layer of Aragamax sand settling down in it. Over the next few weeks a couple of pieces of uncured LR were added to kick-start the DSB off which was then tended for the next 6 months until the rest of the system was in its new home ready to be fired up. Over this period close attention was paid to feeding regimes and population density/diversity in the bed.
UPDATE.......April 2003.
As of April, the sump has been running attached to the main system for three months. in this time the diversity and population of organisms has increased massively. There are a multitude of small snails, tunicates, sponges, worms, pods, shrimps, and sand stars all crawling around looking for any morsels dropped in their way. The macro algae has also taken on a good spurt in growth. All parameters are holding very stable throughout the entire system with a very low NO3 reading of 1ppm and falling.
Flow through the sump has proved very beneficial in the stabilisation of pH, and very effective at controlling waste levels despite very heavy feeding from myself in the interests of increasing diversity within the DSB area. The final baffle has also proved to be of an advantage as a good place for the addition of additives such as Kalkwasser due to the very high flow rate. The following photo as taken April 1st 2003 showing the sump in action.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/DSB%20270403aa.jpg
You can find more detailed info on this and other DSB's, on these pages
[URL="http://www.reef-eden.net/DSBs.htm"]DSB's (http://www.reef-eden.net/2002_0730_225556AA.JPG)
and heres a page on my 2006 Tower sump DSB
New DSB (http://www.reef-eden.net/new_dsb.htm)
Hope this helped.
Regards
Si.
Well, here's my effort. Doesn't quite match up to the previous postings, but this is my first marine setup. It's been running since Easter.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/alanwsg_s1.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/alanwsg_s5.jpg
-- The sump is a cold box for picnics that I bought in the local h/w store for £11.
-- There's an Ehiem 1260 return pump out of sight.
-- The skimmer is an AQ Turboflotor.
-- There's 2x200W heaters in there which I now realize is overkill!
-- The water returns into an up-ended plastic fruit juice bottle with the bottom cut off. This contains filter wool as a mech. filter.
-- The white bog tube you can see sticking out is a home-brew rowaphos reactor driven by an Ehiem compact pump at the bottom.
-- The wooden frame suspends a float swtich from Maplins which works the auto top-up system from the brewing bucket.
-- On the back wall there's the home-brew electronics built into Tupperware boxes for the auto top-up, wave-maker & thermostat for the fans.
-- There's an earthing probe you can't see made from stainless steel & the whole lot runs through an RCD socket.
That's given me a headache. :huh:
Now that is a DIY sump Fantastic....N
Wow , in its own way thats very impressive indeed :thumbsup:
Alanswg...what are the home-brew electronics? Very impresive set up :thumbsup:
Simon G....impressive as always B) ....does make me think you have far too much time on your hands though ;) :lol:
Alanswg...what are the home-brew electronics?
Thermostat is a £5.99 kit from Maplins with a few minor mods to make it more sensitive.
Wavemaker is a 555 in astable mode switching a couple of maxijets over every 15 secs or so.
Auto top-up is a 555 in monostable to bung in a litre or so of water when it gets triggered.
There's also a moonlight system I forgot to mention cobbled together out of some blue LEDs.
The auto top-up, thermostat and wavemaker run via 13A sockets that I added 12V relays into to provide 'remote control'. This means the electronics stuff only has 12V running around inside the sump compartment.
Originally posted by alanwsg@Jul 7 2004, 18:04
Alanswg...what are the home-brew electronics?
Thermostat is a £5.99 kit from Maplins with a few minor mods to make it more sensitive.
Wavemaker is a 555 in astable mode switching a couple of maxijets over every 15 secs or so.
Auto top-up is a 555 in monostable to bung in a litre or so of water when it gets triggered.
There's also a moonlight system I forgot to mention cobbled together out of some blue LEDs.
The auto top-up, thermostat and wavemaker run via 13A sockets that I added 12V relays into to provide 'remote control'. This means the electronics stuff only has 12V running around inside the sump compartment.
Thats what I like to see :thumbsup: . I'm just in the process of building myself a wavemaker, although I'm using a 4060 instead of a 555 :) . How long have you had your powerheads switching like this? Have you had any fail? Can you hear them switching on and off?
Kev
DairyleaMonster
07-07-04, 18:46
Yeah well done Simon! Much respect for that :bow:
And alanwsg... I'd be very interested in knowing about the switching of the powerheads, and whether or not you can hear them switching on/off
Baz
My 22x13x14 mud based sump system, a DSB is also used in the main tank.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/sumpy.jpg
ok - here's my teeny weeny 15 x 12 x 15 sump:
http://www.fponline.f9.co.uk/images/sumppic.jpg
a few changes since the picture was taken:
the small refugium now has chaeto algae along with the mangrove
the return pump has been changed to a New Jet 1700lph pump
the deltec MC500 skimmer is still in there and pulling out lots of gunk
Anna
simon garratt
07-07-04, 22:55
Simon G....impressive as always ....does make me think you have far too much time on your hands though
Cheers. It makes a change from milliput and Acro snot....... :D
Regards
Si.
Originally posted by BulldogR@Jul 7 2004, 21:48
My 22x13x14 mud based sump system, a DSB is also used in the main tank.
Hey Bulldog - that's got to be the slickest, tidiest sump ever! Makes me wonder if this exercise is telling us as much, if not more, about the individuals than their sumps.....?
Keith
And alanwsg... I'd be very interested in knowing about the switching of the powerheads, and whether or not you can hear them switching on/off
You can't hear the powerheads switching on/off, but you can hear the relays going clickerty-clack. Maybe a bit of soundproofing around them is needed. On the other hand, it does provide confirmation that everything's working ok.
DairyleaMonster
08-07-04, 08:36
Originally posted by alanwsg@Jul 8 2004, 08:37
And alanwsg... I'd be very interested in knowing about the switching of the powerheads, and whether or not you can hear them switching on/off
You can't hear the powerheads switching on/off, but you can hear the relays going clickerty-clack. Maybe a bit of soundproofing around them is needed. On the other hand, it does provide confirmation that everything's working ok.
alanwsg... would it be possible to post the circuits you have created in the DIY forum. I think many of us would be interested in the (relatively!) simple circuits you have created! ;)
The 555 is a bog standard timer IC which is found everywhere.
Do a google search & you'll get an flood of info.
Anna, does a sump of that little size do much good? I'm still thinking about adding a sump, and have as little space as you do.
Originally posted by popsock@Jul 8 2004, 09:59
Anna, does a sump of that little size do much good? I'm still thinking about adding a sump, and have as little space as you do.
I grow enough macro algae in a 6" deep x 14"x16" sump for all my nutrient export in a skimmerless 300 litre ecosystem with 13 well fed fish.....harvesting about 0.3kg to 0.5kg chaeto and caulerpa per week.
Also, it keeps all the equipment neat and tidy out of the way.
That's good news. How much miracle mud did you have to buy for that? I like the sound of the ecosystem.
Here's my new sump.
sump = 48x18x15 tank (my old display tank)
In tank refugium for the lil pod fella's to grow in peace etc, with caulerpa.
Bottom of the tank has a DSB (well, almost when i get more sand!)
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/reef-junky/reef/pics/sumpydood.JPG
Pic was taken just after I had set the system up, hence why the return chamber on the right is almost empty.
Since added a DIY auto topoff system for RO, still to add the kalk topoff system yet!
Also theres a LOT more stuff in the stand now (rowa reactor and junk! hehe)
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/Dscn0462.jpghttp://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/Dscn0461.jpghttp://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/Dscn0460.jpg
Heres my effort waited until my wife was out one day riped out the corner cupboard in the kitchen and plumed it through the wall.keeps a lot of the noise and mess out of the lounge :D :D
Sorry you can't seem to see much of the sump as it's a little dark.It simply has two overs with culerper bed and 2" sand in main section skimmer is fed from end of sump and returned to begining to add flow across bed.1260 return to tank only pushes 120 ltr per hr via 2000 chiller.
after seeing bulldogr sump not sure what this one must say about me :rolleyes:
Phil
simon garratt
08-07-04, 14:12
Dursley.
How do you manage to stop the water running out of your skimmer all over the floor?
:)
Regards
Si. :)
Heres my sump, a skimmerless MM ecosystem.. water flow is from left to right over a MM bed with Caulerpa Prolifera and Cheato, The right hand cupboard contains the RO topoff resevoir which is in its self auto topped up by a kent float setup.
.. Tony
Tim Parkinson
08-07-04, 22:59
Heres mine quick snap cant say its a great picture but you get the jist.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/ferg.gif
the cabinet is split via 2 vertical suupports this determined the layout.
water comes from two drains in the display tank, one on the left one on the right. the right hand drain flows directly to the sump in the middle of the cabinet. the left drain flows to the refugium where it is controlled by a tap the overflow from this then goes into the centre sump.
the refugium has a fine dsb and various live rock, bits of algae, and anything that needs seperateing from the tank measures 12" square foot by 18" tall.
Centre sump has larger grain dsb with algae on top, this is a 24"x12"x13" tank
both algae beds lit by two 18" tubes
end cuboard has the skimmer and kalk tank. Also the thermostat for the pc fans.
thats it.
Dursley.
How do you manage to stop the water running out of your skimmer all over the floor?
:lol: :D
I had to look at the picture a few time to figure out what was happeing. ;) I never noticed the scroll bar at the bottom to slide along to see the other pics.
Doh !
Stuart
This is my remote sump, tank in house.
Two 32mm overflows, one into the fuge tank the other into the main sump.
OR6500 return to house in 1" pipe
Tanks are from excellsior rotational mouldings, about 300L in the main tank and I think 70 odd in the fuge. The fuge is connected to the main sump with a wetpipe.
Fugu lit 24/7 with an ALS 2x18w compact T5 unit.
The main sump houses, schuran skimmer, rowa reactor, some more rock and all the probes for the IKS system, Ecoaqaulizer (!) heaters and 802 in the sump just circulates water around.
Not an exactly compact setup but doubles the size of my main tank.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/sissump.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/sisfuge.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/sisgarage.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/sisIKSpanel.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/sisROarea.jpg
If you need any more details just ask away.
Simon, why don't you just post more pics of kylie or whoever's arse that is!
Hi,
Some very interesting stuff here, Simon is the flymo used for keeping the caulerpa down? :lol:
Here is a link to a thread with details of my sump http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/index.p...pic=21762&st=90 (http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=21762&st=90)
Cheers,
Cam.
Originally posted by jacksok+Jul 7 2004, 23:51--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (jacksok @ Jul 7 2004, 23:51)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-BulldogR@Jul 7 2004, 21:48
My 22x13x14 mud based sump system, a DSB is also used in the main tank.
Hey Bulldog - that's got to be the slickest, tidiest sump ever! Makes me wonder if this exercise is telling us as much, if not more, about the individuals than their sumps.....?
Keith [/b][/quote]
Yea I'll second that! Really nice , I love the 'modern' look :)
How do you find the RATZ ca reactor ? Reliable, easy to use/setup ?
Originally posted by popsock@Jul 10 2004, 19:18
Simon, why don't you just post more pics of kylie or whoever's arse that is!
No problem, and your spot on Kylie !
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Actualy supprised no one spotted the temperature showing 19.5 degrees !
Thanks for the comments...:thumbsup:
How do you find the RATZ ca reactor ? Reliable, easy to use/setup ?
Yeah it's OK, it's not the best bit of kit out there but does the job at the moment.....
in wrong order but this was a test run
rag boy nice setup.... is that an OR pump i spot.. i see it's leaked a little around the outlet... saltcreep!! i never liked these pumps nothing but noisy and trouble.. don't cope with back pressure too well. Also you stm micro dosers i take it or one u built they shouldn't be on there backs just in case the bubing splits and it all drains back into the motor and gears better to lay them on their sides. Did you but them or make them?!!
narthur, yes its an or3500 not very noisy and it seems to be ok so far, i should have put a bit of flexipipe in line with the pump i think the vibration makes it leak, thats about 4 months build up so nothing serious.
the peri pumps are stm and were posed for photo :blush:
they are hanging over sump nowadays in case of leaks but thanks for the advice :thumbsup:
steve
Hi all! :) I just set up this tank a couple of weeks ago! I had to buy a new one, because the old one was leaking! Please excuse the salt on the glass; I took this after installation! :) I hope to fill it with rock and plants on the left, which has a brine shrimp hatchery in it! The right, I hope to maybe have an anemone and clown! I had one, but it was damaged when I bought it, and died! Anyway, it is a fifteen gallon, which is on my 75 gallon system!
http://cah1982.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/sump.jpg
http://cah1982.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/sumptop.jpg
http://cah1982.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/pics/DSCF0027.JPG
http://cah1982.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/pics/DSCF0029.JPG
http://cah1982.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/pics/DSCF0030.JPG
like the homemade aqualizer, does it sparkle? :D :whistling:
thats what i was going to ask the home made Aqualiser does it do anything??
Maya or max?
Mabe a use for my old glasss scratching magnet :angry:
Dave.
heres mine,schuranjetskim,uv25 and return pump is an aquaclear5000.
i do like the aquaclear .. i must have had my 802 forever now and it is still as powerfull as ever..FISH.
Deejay:
cah1982's gfx look decidedly 3ds max to me ;) dam fine tool if I do sayso myself! hehehe...
Maya tends to create everything in grey as its neutral etc, but max creates objects in a random colour like the pics in cah's pic.
Reef bloke
16-08-04, 00:15
Well heres my effort at my first sump,measures 20 high,20 wide and 26 long.I incorperated a fresh water reservoir at the rear left of the sump that holds around 3 gall for top offs.Its made of 6 mm glass and cost around £60 to build ,i had the glass cut to size at a glaziers.
The design might not be the best but its mine and im proud of it lol. ;) :thumbsup:
What do you guys do when you change your water? Presumably the flow to the sumps stop when you remove the old water, so what are your methods?
Garry thomas
20-08-04, 20:01
This is part of my right sump which is my fuge. It measures 62x28x 24inchs high
Garry thomas
20-08-04, 20:02
This is my left sump which is a 90 gal cube. It has a DSB and is so full of life.
30x12x15 M/mud set up built myself from a old clearseal tank.
New-jet3000 for return pump turned down as the 2 1" overflows could not take it.
2 Trinitron T8's above sump.
Added a maxijet600 to the sump for water movement.
Word of warning if you add a pump for water moment to the sump make sure the pump is secure as my tank had just finnish cycling when the suckers failed result a maintank full of mud and now the tank is cycling again.
RED SLIM TIME AGAIN.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/photopost/data/500/3208sump.jpg
:thanx: WOW
Valley Boy
22-08-04, 14:35
Hi
Here's mine,
The water travels over a weir in the tank, through Floss and down to first sump.
Into first section then into Sand bed/ refugium area. From here it travels through 3 overflow fittings into lower sump (Another sandbed) and into the pump chambers.
My Shorty skimmer takes its water from here.I also have a tank for auto. top up
Top up water passes through a container containing Kalk.
Calc.Reactor takes its water from gravity from tank and discharges into sump
The sumps also have a 25w uv connected
Hi All,
I was pm'd requesting information on how I'd incorporated a sump into my system and I stated I would put some photos on this post. Hopefully I'll get it right this time :rolleyes:
However, the one thing I do not have is lots of room and I would like to incorporate a DSB with some LR if possible. Is there a minimum size below which I am wasting my time especially as my return pumps are in the sump at present.
Any comments would be appreciated. :thanx:
Andy Thomas
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/Overflow%20Detail.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/Sump%20End%20detail.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/Skimmer.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/Skimmer%20supply%20detail.jpg
bristlebasher
26-08-04, 08:31
I have heard a minium of about 1 third of surface area of the main tank quoted as minium for a dsb that will have any major de-nitrafying effect.
I do believe that even the smallest section will be helpfull with the bio diversity it will add to the system.
Here is my 18 x 10 over tank refugium, complete with macroalgae and mangroves on an aragonite plenum.
ye mark j was 3d studio max , was kinda difficult explaining to ppl how my sump worked as its not a conentional left to right system , does a u turn , didnt have much space to play with :P
Tidied up ;) (Seriously....)
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/tidied_sump_ey.jpg
e
wsmithwaz11
02-09-04, 13:03
but thats the way a good designed sump should look ermm isnt it hehehe?
Got you all beat!
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/dscf0088_edited.jpg
OK - so its not actually mine... ;)
The Shedd Aquarium filtration system for its 2m gallon dolphin and whale pools in Chicago.
Keith
stan.the.man
28-09-04, 12:48
Been meaning to add mine for some time. Bad back means I am stuck at home, so here goes.
The sump is approx 75 gals water and was supplied by Rotational Mouldings.
I call my sump the iceberg (not cos its cold), but because most of it is below floor level. This gives me plenty of access space. Though at the moment with a bad back its a long way down !!
I have an underground void of about four foot high at this part of the house. So it meant some heavy timber supports under the joists for the tank. Also undergound is my RO unit and chiller.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/SumpSmall.jpg
This picture also shows my Salt mixing container. It looks bigger than the sump, but thats just an optical illusion.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/SumpAndROSmall.jpg
This one shows my (slightly) above tank refugium. The pic was taken before it had any caulerpa in it.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/RefugiumSmall.jpg
FWIW, here is my 5gal sump :dance: .
Daryl
bluepippa and stan.the.man
Can i ask where you got that flexible hose from?
Thanks,
Anthony.
Anthony,
Mine came from my LFS, who is big into garden ponds, which is what I think this hose is designed for.
Be carefull to get one which is plastic, even in the ribbing, as it is possible to get this hose with a wire core to the ribbing, and Im not sure what metal is used, but its probably not reef safe.
Cheers
Daryl
stan.the.man
29-09-04, 11:52
Originally posted by amorey@Sep 29 2004, 07:07
bluepippa and stan.the.man
Can i ask where you got that flexible hose from?
Thanks,
Anthony.
Got mine from a pond specialist rather than a marine outlet. As you're in Oz, not much help if I tell you which one. If you want to pay for the air fare though, I dont mind helping you out and bringing some over. Just me, Jan and three kids - is that OK? :D
Stan
You're too late Stan!
The house is sold and i'll be round your way next week, have a curry ready for us will ya? ;)
Why would you want to come out here anyway? Too bloody Hot! :blink:
Try keeping a tank from over heating out here................
Ant.
A quick piccy of my sump :rolleyes: DSB part.
Here's the leccy messy bit :rolleyes:
Still very Neat Darryl....Have you added the doors yet ? :P'
whats the little tank above the monster sump ?
Originally posted by simonm@Oct 2 2004, 23:06
Still very Neat Darryl....Have you added the doors yet ? :P'
whats the little tank above the monster sump ?
Nah, not got round to the doors yet :rolleyes:
Little tank contains a mantis, little bugger scares the life out of me every time I see him :)
Hi All
Just thought I would add my tidy sump to the thread.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/Pips%20sump.jpg
Happy Reefkeeping :D
Andy
Garry thomas
03-10-04, 20:38
I dont see it i'm afraid Andy :huh:
cheers G T
I was working on it as you posted
enjoy
Happy Reefkeeping :D
Andy
Just seen the top Andy...Bottom looks good too.... :D :D :D
5061litres
09-10-04, 10:47
just lookin the the sump photo's and realised that mine isn't here yet..
So here it is..
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/dscn1016.JPG
and just for good measure.. some semi close-ups..
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/DSCN1017.JPG
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/DSCN1018.JPG
hope u like.
tony
hi daryl,
i've just noticed on your "leccy" pic, a euro plug plugged across an english socket, ie the two lower socket holes, does this work ok ??
cheers
lee
:D :D :D :D
Originally posted by LEEWINK@Oct 9 2004, 22:25
hi daryl,
i've just noticed on your "leccy" pic, a euro plug plugged across an english socket, ie the two lower socket holes, does this work ok ??
cheers
lee
:D :D :D :D
Yep no probs, you have to place a screwdriver, in the earth part whilst your plugging it in, this lowers the shields on the Live and Neutral holes, don't do this unless your confident about what your doing. You can buy adapters that do the job much more safely.
Sorry I should have said I use euro-english plugs to start, good to see you promote safety and all that though.
I'm one of the "not happy to play with electrics types", you got more guts than me - screwdrivers in plugs etc, but TURN THEM OFF FIRST !! :D
Almost as much spaghetti wiring as mine, although mine is de-set now.
cheers chap
lee
:D :D :D :D
Just setup my 1st sump with MM,
Here's mine - looking unusually tidy at the moment! :rolleyes:
Steve.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/sjw1.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/sjw2.jpg
Mine nearly ready to be filled.
ste :)
Now that really is neat and tidy - bet it doesn't stay that way for long, sumps never seem to. :)
Steve
Ok folks,
These all look great. What I would like to know is how do you all keep the front glass so clean. Do you clean it?
Thanks
Steve
Sean the Prawn
24-01-05, 17:48
Thought I'd add mine. It's basically a rip off of the Eco-system design. 30" long with miracle mud and caulerpa in the refugium. An aqua-medic OR2500 (should have gone for the 3500) and bag each of elimiphos and carbon.
Sorry about the pic. I am crap
Hi all
I have two sumps joined together each sump is 36x18x15 the first sump is the DSB that contains 3 inches of sand & 1 inch of live sand, the Eco Cooler sits on this sump also my Calcium Reactor Deltec PF 600 sits next to this sump, the water which come's from the overflow travels down Two pipes One pipe is connected to my Cooler & the other pipe is connected to the Second sump, the second sump is were the Deltec TS1060 sits (Skimmer) next to the Skimmer is the return One Ocean Runner 6500, both sumps have been drilled the water which comes from the cooler 1st sump runs into the second sump, also next to the second sump is a 25 Gallon water tank purchased from B&Q used for water changes, inside this tank is a Ocean Runner 3500 when switched on dissolves the salt quickly & gets the right temp quickly, then all I have to do is stick some hose on the Ocean Runner & return to the second sump,
thank god for that im confused now,
thanks for looking,
heres some pics.
i can make a mess, sump room is a purpose built room under the house :D apologies for an image intensive page!!!
original sump, yuck!
http://www.chimera.co.nz/tropicalfish/mytank/sump-before.jpg
sump room plan:
http://www.chimera.co.nz/tropicalfish/mytank/sumproom/sumproomtop.gif
sump room plumbing:
http://www.chimera.co.nz/tropicalfish/mytank/plumbing/sideplumb.gif
topup:
http://www.chimera.co.nz/tropicalfish/mytank/sumproom/topupbarrel.jpg
refugium:
http://www.chimera.co.nz/tropicalfish/mytank/sumproom/refugium1.jpg
plumbing to refugium:
http://www.chimera.co.nz/tropicalfish/mytank/plumbing/plumbdown4.jpg
plumbing from refugium to sump:
http://www.chimera.co.nz/tropicalfish/mytank/sumproom/fugetosump1.jpg
calcium reactor:
http://www.chimera.co.nz/tropicalfish/mytank/sumproom/calcium-reactor2.jpg
sump:
http://www.chimera.co.nz/tropicalfish/mytank/sumproom/skimmer2.jpg
return pump:
http://www.chimera.co.nz/tropicalfish/mytank/plumbing/newpipe-sumproom-iwaki.jpg
return plumbing:
http://www.chimera.co.nz/tropicalfish/mytank/plumbing/plumbup2.jpg
back upstairs into seaswirl on main tank:
http://www.chimera.co.nz/tropicalfish/mytank/plumbing/newpipe-upstairs-seaswirl.jpg
Wish my main tank looked as good as your refugium... :( :bow:
Rich
hi chimera thanks for all the photos they look very good you can never have to many looks like a lot of time whent in to your inpressive system :thumbsup:
I've just read through all of these pages, and seen each and every pic. I have to go and make one of these things now, and it's frightened the living s~*+e out of me!! They look like NASA scientists came up with them.( Well, some of them). Apart from needing an electrical degree for the 300 plug sockets needed, I also need a maths degree to work out logistics and an appreniceship in plumbing. Or is it simpler than it looks and I'm being a dram queen ? Mmmm!? I wonder?
Seriously though, very interesting, with lots of ideas swimming around in my head.
Nick Derbyshire
18-02-05, 10:42
whats a seaswirl?
Sea Swirl is an oscilating pipe return device. See Link.
SeaSwirl (http://www.sea-swirl.com/)
Ant.
:huh: woa ive just been through all this and its starting to scare me. and get me down :(
is there such thing as a simple sump which is very effective?
i hope so
:dance:
Sump eventually fitted and finished - just waiting for a Tunze auto top up unit and she'll be done; size dimensions in signature.
Section 1: water in, heater and fluidised rowa reactor with floss in top section to assist in water polishing.
Section 2: AM Turboflotor 1000 in-sump skimmer - had to raise it on eggcrate to fit in with the sump design and to ensure optimum operation.
Section 3: 5" DSB.
Section 4: Macro algae with Compact T5 36W lighting 24/7.
Section 5: Return pump.
Here is mine.
http://www.dgasmd.org/750g%20tank/Equipment%20room/01.jpg
http://www.dgasmd.org/750g%20tank/Equipment%20room/03.jpg
http://www.dgasmd.org/750g%20tank/Equipment%20room/04.jpg
http://www.dgasmd.org/750g%20tank/Equipment%20room/05.jpg
The skimmer is different these days. This is the new one:
http://www.dgasmd.org/750g%20tank/Skimmer/27.jpg
http://www.dgasmd.org/750g%20tank/Skimmer/20.jpg
Hi dgasmd
Quite impressive thought it was a Chemical Plant, :lol: would like to see the tank on the other side though, you will just have to make sure you park that car OK or you might have a little leak oops just seen the stoppers under your wheel,
cheers
Brad
Was impressed until I saw the last shot, there under the bench lays a pair of rubber gloves.... wuss !
Come on whats the worst that can happen ? alkaline burns from Kalk, septic cuts infected by tank water, Cuts from sharp rocks/glass, wounds from mantis ?
:D :D :D
Chris
Deanobeano
09-05-05, 22:43
heres my sump not in use as yet but it will be soon i hope.
its an aqua medic reef 500 for my 6x18x2 tank, hoping not going to have problems with it (sponge bit getting blocked!) so thinking of planning a dsb sump in the tank but going to see how it goes 1st.
mmmmm anyone esle with a reef 500 system and any one got any tales to tell about them ?
deano beano
Here is a picture of my 'overtank' sump... Didn't have the space to put it underneath and as doors are a no-no with my dogs I have had to built a stand above my tank of it..
it has 4 sections -
1. Water in - with filter-floss prefilter (removed every 2 days)
2. Skimmer.
3. Rubble / Calerupa Section
4. Return.
The pipes are going to 2 external filters which has RhowPhos in one and occasionally Charcoal in the other
Hope it fits your standards... :rolleyes:
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/sump-22-5-02.jpg
heres my sump soon after it was set up
http://www.muzzys-reef.co.uk/new_tank_build/72.jpg
and the sump stack added later consisting of fuge, dsb and frag tank with top up water below
http://www.muzzys-reef.co.uk/new_tank_build/sump-stack4.jpg
julesandsand
03-06-05, 18:29
Muzzy,
What are the bubble traps?
Originally posted by julesandsand@Jun 3 2005, 17:29
Muzzy,
What are the bubble traps?
the pains of glass at the far left of the sump, idea is to stop bubbles getting back into the tank, got the idea from here (http://www.reef-eden.com/diy_4.htm)
muzzy, is the mce600 actaully placed inside the sump or hung on the back? its hard to tell
Originally posted by maestro@Jun 3 2005, 19:23
muzzy, is the mce600 actaully placed inside the sump or hung on the back? its hard to tell
inside the sump sitting on a piece of undergravel filter, theres exactly 0 mm to spare when lifting the cup out, fair bit of luck there!
Well here is my sump :thumbsup:
This is my proposed setup, not sure if the water top up area should be there or whether it should be where the return pump should be though.
I'm a complete newby to all this - thanks to slappy for the diagram as it all seems a bit clearer now.
I'm a bit confused about a few things though - sorry if these are a bit basic! :blush:
1. Is all water heating done in the sump and none in the main tank itself?
2. Why the (planted) sand bed?
3. What is Caulerpa? (sp)
hi paul,
yes the heating is done in the sump,the planted sand bed has caulerpa in it which is an algea.the caulerpa uses phosphates and nitrates to grow,then its harvested and removed from the system,making a complete natural cycle
Thanks - does the caulerpa grow naturally or do you have to plant it yourself?
Also are most sumps DIY made?
the best thing is to look out for someone on here selling some ,then just put it in the sump (with light ) and thats it .try searching on here for caulerpa and you will get info on different types to try.
sumps are usually regular tanks with compartments glued or siliconed in where needed,again,search for sumps and there will be plenty of info for you.
cheers
pasenah
Hosted a meet yesterday of the Anglia Reef Club and as this the tidiest my sump/garage is ever likely to be I thought I'd better immortalise the moment. ;)
View from the door
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/garage%20view.jpg
The main aquarium is in the lounge. The overflow from this aquarium is piped through the wall into the first of three conected 50gal sump containers in this adjoining garage.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/sump%201.jpg
This first 50gal sump container holds the liverock (mainly Caribbean). The pH, temp and redox probes are sited here along with the heaters. When needed, water is pumped from here to the Eco-cooler and/or Teco chiller housed in a shed the other side of the garage wall. A Tunze 6080 stream boosts the flow around the liverock in this section of sump.
http://thereef.info/live-rock_in_sump.jpg
Draining into this section of sump are the returns from two small 128L aquariums sited above it. One is primarily for housing frags, the other is for a pair of tomato clowns and a green and red BTAs.
Water then passes to the second section of sump, holding the DSB and Caleurpa/Chaeto. It is lit 24/7. There is a temporary lighting set-up on there at the moment with an Arcadia T5 4x24w luminare and a single T8 18w flourescent. I hope to replace these with a single 4x55w T5 power compact 'Brightwing' fitting soon.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/sump%202.jpg
http://thereef.info/macroalgae.jpg
The small aquarium above this section of sump is especially for non-photosynthetic corals.
The water then passes to the third sump which holds the Deltec TS1064 skimmer and a Schuran ozone reactor. The skimmer runs 24/7 whilst the ozone reactor is normally run counter cyclical to the main aquarium lighting - this is to try and compensate for lower nighttime oxygen levels.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/sump%203b.jpg
The output from a Deltec KM500S kalkstirrer and PF600S calcium reactor enter into this third part of the sump.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/sump%203.jpg
The Deltec FR716 fluidising Rowaphos reactor is supplied by an OR3500 pump. This is going to be moved so as to take its water supply from the first sump section, as I have had problems with the output from the kalkstirrer making the Rowaphos media clog.
Above this section of sump is a 25 gal container with a Tunze 6060 stream which is used for mixing up fresh salt water for water changes. I tend to change 25gals every two weeks, equivalent to 10% of system volume.
Finally water is drawn from this final section of sump by a Deltec 5250 pump and passes through a 2x34w UV unit before returning to the main aquarium. The UV is only run as and when needed.
The system seems to run well and I'm happy enough with it, but its not perfect. In particular I would have prefered to have had the TS1064 skimmer sited in the first section of the sump, but there were various reasons why this wasn't possible. And if I'd had a purpose made sump, rather than my DIY'ed containers, then I could have fitted it all into a much smaller space. Expect I'll rectify these points if/when I upgrade the main aquarium to a 'hole-in-the-wall' type setup.
Keith
5061litres
05-09-05, 11:30
amazing!
i need to get myself a garage on the side of the house!
enviable.
tony
beasty1711
08-09-05, 08:47
WOW...
right... so i now need one garage for bikes... one for fish... :)
instantsquid
11-09-05, 20:41
I've finally managed to add a sump to my Trigon 350. The tank wasn't drilled and still had the Juwel "black box" in it (although without any media in). Also, my tank is quite close to the wall on both sides (corner tank) so the Schuran overflow box wouldn't fit. I discovered Tunze make an overflow box which is a lot neater, so I've fitted one of these.
I made the sump from a 24"12"x18" tank and siliconed a couple of pieces of glass in as baffles. Being so small, it had to be simple. Chamber one is the feed from the tank and contains my Deltec MC500. Chamber two has a shallow sand bed with critters from the main tank (couple of snails plus any bristleworms I could find) plus a handful of Caulerpa from a LFS. Chamber three houses an Eheim 1050 return pump. I did try an Eheim 1250 first but this was way over the top!
The sump is lit 24/7 at the moment by a pair of 24" T8s.
The most fun part of the whole operation was modifying the cabinet while the tank on top was still full! I made the support posts and fitted them in place first, before cutting the original centre support panel out.
Ian :thumbsup:
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/Sump01.JPG
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/Sump02.JPG
Keith - Impressive arrangement - not quite what I imagined from a Top Flight WH CS, but expansive in its scope. THe different zones are interesting what is the sump to main tank volume ratio?
Anyway, my humble start:
Here's my mini sump, fed by a schuran overflow, tank is 30cm x 35cm and contains a Deltec PF600 Skimmer, Aqua Medic Auto top-up,150w Heater, siporax media (spelling?), PH & ORP probes, carbon & rowaphos, soon to be added to fluidised reactors as soon as I can get around to making them!
http://www.nuts-bolts.net/images/sump2.jpg
The plan was to fit the calc reactor in there too, but there ain't no way!
I should probably get around to sorting out the electrics soon too :o
http://www.nuts-bolts.net/images/sump3.jpg
Originally posted by hairyduck@Sep 15 2005, 17:32
I should probably get around to sorting out the electrics soon too :o
Ah hem, yup, I would think so, you won't believe I started without a circuit breaker and am pretty glad by now that I got one as I would, by now, have gone up in smoke, but then I know nothing about those ltitle white boxy things - Oh yeah, they are plugs aren't they?
My simple sump! :D
:cheers:
karen1bernese
26-09-05, 22:13
Heres my filter which has run for around 8 years without being out from its home so please excuse the dirt!! In the box are loads of pyramedia (think the spelling is ok) then 3 pond sponges on top (different grades) on that are 2 plastic sheets with tiny holes sorry i cant remember the name.Onthe left is just the heater and eheim pump.Could people give me there views on growing algea next to the pump for extra filter (i was told it must be lit 24/7?????) This filter is running a 5x2x18.
millermilla
27-09-05, 22:32
Here's mine. Its a 30X15X12 Eco system sump for a 4X2X2 main tank (100gals). The sump has 25lbs of miracle mud with various different types of caulerpa and magroves. I dont run a skimmer and just use good quality carbon. Return to tank is an Eheim 1050.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/millermilla/Sump2.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/millermilla/wholesump.jpg
scooby_rex
02-11-05, 09:51
here is my new sump.
48x18x18.
from left to right
fresh water ro top up using tunze osmolator
2 baffles for downpipe from tank.
skimmer area. with a large feed pump for the skimmer reactors and reugium.
regium is 21 x 12 x 17 and drains back into the sump.
infront of the refigium is a heater and the return pump.
Garry thomas
26-11-05, 21:43
The sump on the right is 410 gals and the other sump is 55 gals which feeds the return to the main display and also the skimmer. :)
Originally posted by Garry thomas@Nov 26 2005, 21:43
The sump on the right is 410 gals and the other sump is 55 gals which feeds the return to the main display and also the skimmer. :)
Compact and bijou... :D
Remind me - how big is the display?
Keith
Garry thomas
26-11-05, 22:26
210 Thats all the room i had :lol:
Originally posted by Garry thomas@Nov 26 2005, 21:43
The sump on the right is 410 gals and the other sump is 55 gals which feeds the return to the main display and also the skimmer. :)
A couple of tunze streams in there you have your self a Jacuzzi
Yes I am jealous :whistling: :bow:
Sorry Mods if this is in the wrong post :unsure:
I am planning my first sump when I upgrade my tank when the weather breaks (if it does :P ) here is a picture of my first design can you please tell me if its ok or what could I do better????
:thanx:
Baden :thumbsup:
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/Sump%20Design%2020052.jpg
Looks good apart from the bio balls, put some crushed live rock in there or just leave it empty?
Originally posted by kneival@Dec 20 2005, 06:55
Looks good apart from the bio balls, put some crushed live rock in there or just leave it empty?
Surely the bio-balls a good idea. There is a DSB (or MM) and presumably macro-algae, both of which will handle nitrates. So having the bioballs, which are very efficient at converting Ammonia to Nitrite to Nitrate, immediately prior to the DSB where nitrates are going to be consumed must be a good plan?
Thanks for the input lads(I think... :D lol) do you think baffle #4 should be the same height as Baffles # 2 & 5????
TIA
Baden :thumbsup:
julesandsand
20-12-05, 20:25
'Scuse me if I'm thick, but what is the purpose of baffles no.3 and no. 6?
3's top stop bubbles from the skimmer going into the dsb, not sure about 6 tho'
#6 is another bubble trap just in case any bubbles get through to the return pump as explained before this is my first attempt at designing a sump thats why I have posted it here to see if its right before its made :P
Baden :thumbsup:
Hi could I just ask what software you are using to draw your sump design. I'm setting up a new sump and I want to try a few things that I haven't seen in any sumps before :wacko: and want to show everyone at UR so I casn get some feedback :thumbsup:
Originally posted by baden187@Dec 20 2005, 18:42
Thanks for the input lads(I think... :D lol) do you think baffle #4 should be the same height as Baffles # 2 & 5????
TIA
Baden :thumbsup:
I would leave as is - height in DSB section will be set by baffle 2.
So water will enter lower down - which is what happens in a MM sump.
Thanks for the input all I got to do now is save up the readies :P
Hi could I just ask what software you are using to draw your sump design. I'm setting up a new sump and I want to try a few things that I haven't seen in any sumps before and want to show everyone at UR so I casn get some feedback
Sorry for the delay in the reply but I just used word to be honest there are other software programs that let you do it in 3D but not sure what they are called sorry maybe someone else can help on that one
HTH
Baden:thumbsup:
My simple Miracle Mud sump!
just converted a 3ft empty tank with simple partitions -well rather my lfs did :blush:
didn't trust myself to do it!
section 1 tank feed, skimmer (i wish) and pipes to and from canister for the activated carbon and rowaphos treatment plus uv steriliser, housed in cabinet below
section 2 bioballs
section 3 miraclemud bed
section 4 bioballs
section 5 heater - just in case
section 6 return pump
wish my skimmer worked, take a look at the pic..... thats why i love ebay :angry:
markkrysztofiak
23-03-06, 15:00
I have just finished my new 30g sump/refugium which includes a benthic zone. It was easy to assemble with very few supplies needed. I spent a total of $28 CAD for the 2'x4' egg crate, nylon screening, silicone and one piece of 30cm x 23cm glass. It works great so far, I was having an issue with bubbles in the display tank with my previous sump and this design has eliminated them all. It will take time for the benthic zone to develop the desired critters to clean the water and I still need to add mangrove trees to the refugium area and eventually a UV sterilizer to the tank return line. You can get a full explanation of the design from www.reefvideos.com (http://www.reefvideos.com/) under duplexium.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/markkrysztofiak/Duplexiumlabeled.jpg
My sump in construction
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g142/nevison007/P1010004.jpg
SpanishTony
31-03-06, 12:36
My new sump, looking to add miracle mud and grow calupera or chaeto once lights are installehttp://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h188/SpanishTony/FishFeb06014edited.jpgd.
petergillett
31-03-06, 13:06
First is the skimmer sump (right hand) which is gravity fed for the tank. The tap on bottom right is plumbed to drain. Detritus gathers here so theres a 2000l/h pump in the to whip it up whilst draining.
The left tank is RO fed and holds new salt mix. To water change I close off skimmer inlet, drain right tank, move new water from left to right, open skimmer inlet.
http://www.petergillett.karoo.net/sump1.jpg
The second sump is the fuge. This is fed as overflow from the tank and the skimmer sump.
This then leads into the main sump (bottom right) with heaters and filled with extra live rock. The flow through the fuge can be controlled by the tap on the bypass pipe.
The left hand tank is pure RO for auto topup.
http://www.petergillett.karoo.net/sump3.jpg
Under the skimmer sump are my other bits and pieces. The calcium reactor and phosphate reactor are both gravity fed from the tank overflow and then run into the main sump.
The RO is connected with a solenoid and refills both the RO tank and the new SW tank with float valves. There's also a phyto reactor in there which is not plumbed in.
http://www.petergillett.karoo.net/sump2.jpg
All the other bits (electrics) are on the wall beside the display tank. Cabling is a little messy at the mo as I'm waiting on another Aquatronica plugbar.
Matthew5664
19-04-06, 16:56
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d45/Matthew5664/sumpv2014.jpg
Well here mine
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d45/Matthew5664/sumpv2016.jpg
Looks like this now. got more LR is the first chamber but you get the jist.
Hi all,
I'm planning my first sump, really like the sound of the sump Simon Garrett describes really early on in this thread, so am going to get something similiar designed.
A few questions!
1. What lights do I need in there, and what lighting cycle do I need?
2. With Simons design, does the skimmer sit outside the sump, if so what skimmer would be recommended for a 120g main tank feeding this sump?
3. I assume I could keep my tunze topup, using an old salt bucket and get it to autotop up into the sump?
4. Lastly Simons design was written over 2 years ago, is there a better way to do a sump nowadays or is that still one of the better ways out there?
Cheers,
greg
Prometheus
06-07-06, 21:44
My sump
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/DSCF1436.jpg
As the header really, pipes run out of the window to chiller outside, first chamber has ratz 1200l skimmer and mc500, next chamber has dead corals and pump to chiller, main one full of lr and chaeto with a covering of cyano:confused:, then the return pump chamber.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/sump1.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/sump2.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/sump3.jpg
I've finally managed to add a sump to my Trigon 350. The tank wasn't drilled and still had the Juwel "black box" in it (although without any media in). Also, my tank is quite close to the wall on both sides (corner tank) so the Schuran overflow box wouldn't fit. I discovered Tunze make an overflow box which is a lot neater, so I've fitted one of these.
I made the sump from a 24"12"x18" tank and siliconed a couple of pieces of glass in as baffles. Being so small, it had to be simple. Chamber one is the feed from the tank and contains my Deltec MC500. Chamber two has a shallow sand bed with critters from the main tank (couple of snails plus any bristleworms I could find) plus a handful of Caulerpa from a LFS. Chamber three houses an Eheim 1050 return pump. I did try an Eheim 1250 first but this was way over the top!
The sump is lit 24/7 at the moment by a pair of 24" T8s.
The most fun part of the whole operation was modifying the cabinet while the tank on top was still full! I made the support posts and fitted them in place first, before cutting the original centre support panel out.
Interesting tank. I am about to make my first sump and will be using the same size tank as you: 24" X 12" X 18". I have a Rio 180 and have removed the vertical support (fortunately the tank was empty at the time). I might brace it later with some angle iron or dexion.
I have spent hours reading the various threads here and am beginning to get an idea of what sumps are about.
Why do you have a shallow sand bed as opposed to a deep one.
Would it be best to use sand or to use live rock rubble instead. If I used rubble would I need strong water flow around and under.
Have you a drawing or dimension and pipe sizes
Thanks
Brian
I have a rio 125 (27 uk gal, 33 us gal). After thinking about the sump & the size of the cabinet I just decided to go for a sump without baffles to maximise the DSB area. My return pump is that large it would require nearly half of the sump baffled in itself.
You can see the lights and chaeto, I also have a phosphate reactor which you can see just to the right of the lights. The return pump is on pipe stilts just below and to the right of the phos reactor. The idea of the stilts is to prevent the pump from compacting the mud bed & also cut down on vibration noise. The white gate valve at the front is just to make it easy to control the submersed overflow(as you can see there are no bubbles). The temp you can see is from an ATC800 controller which does both heating and cooling (£30 off ebay). The auto top off switch is to the back left, it has a guard on so the chaeto doesn't interfere(I'm moving this to the back right soon for extra safety). The mud bed has a layer of fine crushed coral to stop the silt flying everywhere.
The splashes at the front are just where I squeeze in my CA and Alk buffers, I've not had any problems with the chaeto blocking the return pump. As it grows it all tangles together & stays in the area under the lights.
Sump size is 21L x 9W x 15H
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/fraser23/tank/sump3.JPG
Its a 20" cube sump. Methodology is Ecosystem so the sponge is just there until i sort out my microbubble problem (there's also a 5 micron sock I've tried). There is a refugium in the back half with cauleurpa and a few bits of live rock and miracle mud and then the oceanrunner 3500 returns the water to the tank.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2007Q2/sump111.jpg
Any advice on which filter sock provides the best 'get rid of micro bubbles' / 'not have to change the bl*@dy everyday' ratio?
Jäger
reefkeeper_2006
15-07-07, 13:27
heres mine
More information can be found in my tank thread see my sig for link
Or any questions just ask
The Sumps
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/Paul`s Tank32.jpg
Sump 1
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/Paul`s Tank38.jpg
Sump 2
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/Paul`s Tank39.jpg
Some Very Impressive Sumps there Heres a Pic of Mine be4 it went in
Section One 100 litres RO Auto top via Tunze 3155
Section Two oulet from the Display tank V2 1200 Skimmer on Eheim 1260 Pump
section 3 Main Sump section 6" Sugar sand DSB with Cheato and Grape and red algea.
Section 4 Return Section to Display tank Via OC6500 on a SCWD system
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s221/carlos-de-jackel/2007_05160004.jpg
Section opposite way round on the drawing :whistling:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s221/carlos-de-jackel/5footsumpdesignfor6foottank.jpg
fireproofcujo
22-08-07, 05:55
This is a sump for my 5x2x2 tank i will keep updating the pic as i progress the size is 36"x18"x18" its a mud sump with chaeto + eheim 1050 feeding skimmer from first chamber. It has an auto top up fed from a 25 ltr water container to the side of the main tank not shown in this pic. Return pump is an ocean runner 3500 and a phosphate reactor fed from the main return plumbing.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/fireproofcujo/Picture022Large-2.jpg
Scotsdevil
07-10-07, 18:50
I am embarking on a new marine project to replace my thriving Rio 180. I am thinking of a 72 x 24 x 15 Tank on a custom built brick base. Within the base I would like a sump. Anyone give me any ideas that would be a suitable and effective sump?
http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/photopost/data/500/medium/sump2.JPG
bit of a work in progress:o
davethefish
27-10-07, 13:44
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/davethefish1/envirolightsump.jpg
:D
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2007Q2/100_17000.JPG
Jay
Hi All,
Here's one of my filter system
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2007Q2/Sump%20running%202.jpg
Running, but still got some stuff to add.
some intresting designs il post some pics of mine soon
I agree lose the bio balls (nitrate factories)
regards
Melv
I have just finished my sump, will send you design if interested? pm me if so?
keep up the good work
Melv
Here's my Bit of a mess
Main view
Sump is approx 36x18x17 inches
Lefthand side is feed from tank with Tunze DOC 9015 skimmer which is also fed with Ozone, Middle section is DSB about 5 inches off Oolite sand with crushed coral on top to stop it blowing about, this section also contains Chaeto which refuses to grow and its lit on a reverse cycle. Third section contains return pump, Chiller pump and Deltec reactor pump.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l312/Paul-80/Sump01Large.jpg
Lefthand side showing Ozone Gen, ORP Controller, Auto Top-UP and pH Controller. and skimmer
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l312/Paul-80/Sump05Large.jpg
Righthand side showing three pumps, reactor ATC-800 and loads of electrics
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l312/Paul-80/Sump02Large.jpg
Like I said its a bit of a mess but works, apart from not being able to get the Chaeto to grow that is.
Paul
Hi All
Sump is approx 95x50x45 CM with 25ltr autotop-up on the front left and Refugium on the far right after the return pump.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/thromp_photo/feb-2008-10641.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/thromp_photo/feb-2008-10642.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/thromp_photo/jan-2008-1031.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/thromp_photo/jan-2008-1033.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/thromp_photo/jan-2008-1034.jpg
Hi,
I have just built this sump, its part of my main system obviously, never built a tank or sump before so im new to it so im quite happy with the result.
The water comes on the left, goes under the first piece into the chamber with Culurpa or however you spell it, which sites on a 4" deep sand bed, then into the next chamber which has miracle mud in, which i am going to make 2" deep when i can afford more, there is 8Lbs in there at the moment. Then back into the return section.
The sump returns back to the start all the time but is also going to the main tank too. Got my reactors on the end. Im going to put a few good sizes lumps of live rock into the MM section too just to make it look nice.
http://www.namehog.net/images/sump1.jpg
http://www.namehog.net/images/sump2.jpg
http://www.namehog.net/images/sump3.jpg
http://www.namehog.net/images/sump4.jpg
http://www.namehog.net/images/sump5.jpg
http://www.namehog.net/images/sump6.jpg
http://www.namehog.net/images/sump7.jpg
JAMESSRICH
24-04-08, 21:34
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y50/jamessrich/fish%20stuff/IMG_0776.jpg
Hi again,
I thought I would try my luck again at putting some pics up.
This is my sump set up.
Due to the center bulkhead I was restricted on my options so I went for 2 independant sumps joined with a link pipe to keep water levels balanced. Each sump has its own return pump.
The meter you can see on the un-lit sump is my orp controller for the ozone unit which works brilliantly.
I expect there is a lot to improve on with my filtration but for now it seems to be working fine.
Thanks for looking.
John :wave:
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2008Q1/18052008358.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2008Q1/18052008357.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2008Q1/18052008359.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2008Q1/18052008360.jpg
looks like a complex setup youve got there , well done mate.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2008Q1/phpRXh3g6PM.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2008Q1/php9mGnCFPM.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2008Q1/P1000125.JPG
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2008Q1/P1000122.JPG
here's my basic sump. input from durso into first chamber where i have a v2 600 skimmer and lifegard fluidized bed filter, from there through bubble trap (works very well) into output chamber where returned by small eheim uni.
There is a phos reactor in there too but empty at the mo, will add denitrator at some point in the future.
http://www.jonsparkes.co.uk/sumprunning.JPG
32" Cube
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2008Q3/IMGP3341_1.jpg
This is my sump setup, which has kind of 'evolved'.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2008Q3/IMGP3359.JPG
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2008Q3/IMGP3360.jpg
It all started out with the 30" sump tank alone and a MCE600 skimmer. These came over to this set up when I upgraded to the cube tank. The 30" has a bio-ball section the a caleurpa section then the return chamber.Skimmer hung on the side.
Problem was the filter wool on the inlet was at the back, so I had to lean it to change it. Also I wanted to increase the filtration. Nats offered me the 6" wide sump tank you see on the left side. What I did was wxtend the tank return to the front and created a pre-filter section for the wool. The water then passes along a 24" DSB 4" deep before overflowing into the bio-balls. Baffles keep the flow in the DSB low over the sand surface. The 30" sump remains the same. The MCE600 has been upgraded to a Aquamedic Turboflotor 1000, and a fluidised Rowaphos reactor added after a Cyno nightmare. Now the filter floss and return top up chamber are right at the front, ideal for access.
looking at your setup has given me an idea of how to improve my sump. I built the sump with a clear idea of what i wanted, now as time moves on i'm getting more ideas. I am now going to include a refugium so an extra tank or bucket could be added for pre filter so not to take any room up in my already tight sump.
bristol_rich
16-09-08, 23:50
Heres my sump, pretty simple at the mo, drain via Durso into MM and live sand mix with diffrent types of algae, through bioballs and returned by a eheim compact 5000 sump pump with a aquaneuvea auto top up and solaris 18w clip on sump light :-
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2008Q3/s2.jpg
And a full tank shot:-
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2008Q3/s1.jpg
Bristolbulldog
12-02-09, 22:15
The start of mine. I plan to add a second tank on the opposite side at some point, and put miracle mud or similar in it. Totally new to reef, but have dealt with sumps on my tropical tanks (i liked the easy life).
This fits a trigon 350 out of the box, so i've included the box pic, jsut incase someone wants to get one.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o6/BristolBulldog/sumpinsitue.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o6/BristolBulldog/sumplabel.jpg
Just trying to figure out how i'm going to divide it.
Jackal4949
08-03-09, 21:06
some of them look to complicated.....
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2009Q1/Sump_5.jpg
This is my 4L HOB sump for my 40L nano tank. I contains two pumps, one sucking water in, and one that powers the phos reactor. It also contains a Tunze 9002 DOC skimmer. The return is via overflow.
emilecilliers
21-03-09, 00:43
sweet,giving me loads of ideas this is
Heres some pictures of mine if anyones interested, tank is a fluval venezia 190 which came predrilled, built a black glass weir around the holes used them both for the drain, then got some glass cut at the local glass shop, total of £80, siliconed it all togethor, linked the two tanks togethor, quite pleased overall, only been running for about 6weeks so far
http://s617.photobucket.com/home/davecharman/allalbums
ONE MORE POINT ---- I originally intended building the tanks in place in the cupboards, changed my mind in the end as I thought i'td be awkward, and wouldnt be able to water test for leaks, ended up removing the tank, unscrewing the top part of the cabinet which let me remove the centre bit of wood between the doors to install the tanks that i built on a bench,
heres my sump
a 24/12/12 with 2 bubble traps and a good space tha i can use for what ever i fancy
http://www.ocean-wonders.co.uk/messageboard/imagehosting/thum_25949e1e2c422f48.jpg ('http://www.ocean-wonders.co.uk/messageboard/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=1368')
mark100585
22-05-09, 15:17
My sump with Tunze 9010 skimmer, phosban reactor, V2 300 UV, and an ATC-800
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2009Q1/IMG_0256_1.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2009Q1/IMG_0252_2.jpg
Maybe a daft question but:
If you're using wier or overflows to feed the sump how do you go about water changes?
I take about 4-5" (70 ltr) from my tank. How would I keep the sump going, or do you swich the pumps off?
Cheers,
Richard
Maybe a daft question but:
If you're using wier or overflows to feed the sump how do you go about water changes?
I take about 4-5" (70 ltr) from my tank. How would I keep the sump going, or do you swich the pumps off?
Cheers,
Richard
yes m8 knock off return pump and take water from either your tank or sump:)
Cheers (makes sense really).
Just need to get one (or two) now.
Just looked through this thread and there are some impressive setups going on:worship:. I will add piccies of mine when it gets going but i can see a common theme running though them all, which is the more established/older they are the more pipework and a array of cables that you need a degree in knot-ology to undo or trace....Look foward to mine ending up like them as well as it appears to be inevitable...:laugh:
Just trying to plan a sump for my new tank design for my Trigon 350. My current design is shown below along with one showing the equipment (10W D-D UV, FR509 D-D Reactor, APF600 D-D Skimmer, 1 retun pump, 2 feed pumps (1 for the UV and Reactor and 1 for the skimmer - probably all Aqua Bee). I've omitted the heaters and the pipe work needs some attention.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2009Q4/Sump_1.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2009Q4/Sump%20and%20equip.jpg
The total Volume is about 50Ltr.
Am I going in the right direction? Can I feed all the equipment from 1 pump? Do I need to change the layout of the sump?
Cheers,
Richard
Scottiemcd
23-02-10, 02:31
I thought I was picking up the basic idea of a sump, but now I have a headache after sifting through this lot! lol
applemobile
27-02-10, 09:59
http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv46/Apple-mobile/sump056.jpg
http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv46/Apple-mobile/sump054.jpg
Looking very tidy after it was first set up. Its pretty self explanitry, and is a complete mess of things now lol.
baileybum1234
28-02-10, 20:17
Any more sump pics? Just thought this thread was interesting and since im looking to modify my sump im looking for more recent suggestions any one?
so many different sumps and techniques id be intrested toknow what ones get the best results
all these look so tidy compared to mine now, i have skimmer, old aquaone 620 lid in there for lighting, phos reactor, uv steriliser but its a right mess with pipework but it all works.
I have been reading through all these threads for the past few weeks which have really helped me, currently I'm using two external canister filters but as of tomorrow I'm upgrading to a bigger tank which includes a sump, The bigger tank is being located in exactly the same place as my current setup, so I'm up for a huge task tomorrow emptying and moving the smaller tank then setting up the bigger one, I'm expecting it to take a fair few hours and hopefully will get some pics on here once i have finished...:)
Hi
First chamber is bio balls and skimmer, next is miracle mud with cauperla and finally heaters and return pump:-
http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/picture.php?albumid=607&pictureid=3839
Tunze Osmolator with storage from a beer making barrel located just outside the cabinet where I can see it.
Regards
Rob
What size of sump should i get for a Juwel Trigon 190?
This is my second DIY sump build, I was very happy with my first design but that was a corner tank so this is my new idea for my 500l tank.
I have read the excellent information on the reef eden site.
http://www.reef-eden.net/diy_4.htm
And I am sure like many of you, I want that sump. It was not exactly to my requirements so I have adapted it to my liking. Here is a pic of what I am thinking http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2011Q4/SUMP DSB DESIGN.JPG
Right quick run down. The sump will be divided into 2 in the first section. Section a is for the main flow from tank, filter sock (when required), skimmer and heater. The output for the skimmer will go into section B, so just like in the article it will feed the DSB with oxygen rich water.
The water in section A then flows over baffles into section C where there is plenty of room for auto top up, calc reactor and any other bits that I may add later.
Section B is fed from the main tank via a ball valve so that I can reduce the flow allowing food to settle on the bed. Water then flows over baffles in section C and returned into the display tank.
Any views on this idea>
Hi,
Im new to this hobby and i need some advice. Of all the sump design on the net your design is the one i want to try. Can you please advise if i can use a pump with a venturi or just the regular one with just the in/out flow (for the protein skimmer) Would appreciate your help on this one. Thanks
KR
Gerry
Ok heres my tecky bit....dragged from Reef-Eden :D
Enjoy.
Controlable flow/ seperator Sump/DSB
I've had a long running discussion going on over this design with several hobbyists since I drew up the plans, as to its effectiveness for feeding the enclosed DSB. The arguments against, are that the DSB should be fed directly from the outflow of the tank and that separating the DSB from the main water flow will reduce its effectiveness or starve it all together.
After looking at various sumps and DSB's I noticed that many DSB's suffer from one or more design flaws that can under certain circumstances negate there effectiveness to just as much 'if not' a higher degree. One concern of mine is the 'what if' syndrome where either the DSB or the tank itself suffers some kind of upset. In this event it would be nice to be able to salvage something of the filtration system or be able to segregate that section off if there was a problem that might affect the livestock. One of my main concerns though, is that we now have a lot higher understanding of the need for strong circulation within many systems (refugium based LPS/Softy set-ups are excepted here obviously due to the need for a more relaxed flow). This need for high turnover puts a large strain on the sump system simply because of the water velocity involved. Typically a sump will be used as an area where we put all our bolt on goodies such as Skimmer, Kalkstirrer, Ca reactor, etc etc etc that rely on being in areas of high flow in order to disperse their output as evenly as possible. Consequently, it is also the area we commonly push water through at an alarmingly quick rate due to the large return pumps we use for system turnover. As such we end up with a slight contradiction in terms. i.e. By definition a DSB needs 'food' to thrive, not just in the form of chemical but solid as well, in order so that it can maintain the high quantities of the worms etc that feed on it. To effectively remove solid waste we have to let the water slow down until the solid stuff falls out of suspension. bit like stirring a cupful of tealeaves. ('As the stirring stops and the waters velocity drops, as does its ability to hold the tealeaves in suspension and they gradually fall to the bottom of the cup.') Its here that the contradiction lies. i.e. 'How can we expect waste/food to fall out of suspension and onto our DSB, when the water in question is whizzing past at some 6000lts per hr plus?. Inevitably only the heaviest particles will settle and the rest is shoved strait back to the return pumps and back up into the tank where we are trying so hard to get rid of it in the first place!. The only way round this apart from having a DSB in the main tank as well, is to separate the DSB from the main sump. As stated before, this also applies if there was problem, and the sump DSB needed to be separated from the rest of the system for a short while.
We also have a dilemma in that DSB's work much better when they are fed highly oxygenated water for the benefit of all the microfauna in the surface layers, which is exactly what we have in our high flow areas but as stated before, these areas are effectively out of bounds for the DSB due to solids not being allowed to fall out of suspension. The only other place in the system that we can find highly oxygenated water is the outflow from the Skimmer. This has a big benefit in that the output has a much lower flow rate than the main sump (unless your using a monster of a skimmer), but at the same time its drawback is that it is very low in food for the bed and its life forms. As I said before, separating the DSB and feeding it separately solves the flow rate problem, and adding water from the Skimmer outflow solves the oxygenation problem. My only other problem then was how to cram all those contradictory requirements into one unit to save space for the rest of the equipment.
This is where the separator design comes in. (See Diagram below).
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/DSCF1321aa.JPG
Key.
Red (unfiltered mucky water).
Blue. (pre-filtered water).
Green. (food laden, oxygen rich, clean water from DSB)
White dotted line. (Water levels with flow running from right to left).
As you will notice. Untreated water (waste laden) flows down the overflows and drops out into compartment 'A' this is then pre-filtered via the use of a large piece of course foam filter mat (cleaned weekly) (NB this Pre-filter has since been removed as un nessesery). However not all of this water makes it to the pre-filter due to the tea-off that steals from the left hand overflow. This 'waste laden' amount is controlled via an adjustable elbow and then drops to the raised DSB compartment 'D', and can be adjusted for flow and consequently food amount by simply adjusting the elbow to divert more or less flow. Under normal circumstances the total amount of water being teed off would be 1/4th the total turnover rate of the sump itself. The remaining 3/4 would be passed through the filter foam and into compartment 'B'. It is at this point that water is taken for the skimmer feed via a 1" bulkhead fitting and hard piped to the skimmer, through, and then returned as highly oxygenated water back to the top of the DSB area as a compliment to the food/waste feed from the overflow. The remaining water then flows under the DSB at high velocity 'C' up, and over the mixer baffle where it is joined by the overflow from the DSB. This outflow is rich in live food for the corals/fish in the show tank and is low in waste due to the settlement and capture of suspended solids and the reduction of Amm,No2, and No3 from the DSB as well. This final mix of skimmed, filtered 'but live food laden' water finally flows under the last baffle where a grill 'E' has been placed to prevent anything (stray fish, or macro algae from the DSB) making its way into the final compartment 'F'. Here there are two 1" bulkhead fittings to take water from this section to the return pumps which are housed away from the sump to keep heat build-up to a minimum. It is in this last compartment, that the Kalkstirrer, and Ca reactor are depositing their output into the high flow where dispersion is at its highest and the auto top-up system will be fitted. Any evaporation within the entire system shows up in this area due to the fixed height of the tank overflows and the designing of the sump baffles.. You will also notice a tray hanging at the output end of the DSB compartment. This is a frag tray I fashioned out of acrylic sheet with holes drilled in the bottom. The top lips of the tray sit just below the surface of the water in the DSB section. This means that water is forced to flow up through the tray and across the top lips where eddies form, giving this area very good circulation for frag's such as SPS corals, at the same time being directly in the path of all the larvae given off from the DSB as food. This tray can be slid along the top brace bars, out of this strong flow at times when propagating softies etc that need slightly less flow to attach properly...(NB. This tray has since been removed to make more space for other equipment)
Flow Diagram (veiw from rear)
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/flow%20diagram2.jpg
After assembly, it was time to test the theory. So I filled the sump to the normal running height. And connected the two Aquabee 3000's, drawing water from compartment 'F' and returning it to compartment 'A'. All went exceedingly well, including having my suspicions about flow rate confirmed. I feel quite confidant in the fact that it would be quite feasible to increase throughput by over 100% without any problems that's up from 6000lts/hr to 12000lts/hr or 3168 gall/hr. One Test I did, confirmed my suspicions over the settlement and flow rate/velocity issue. I poured some muck from my skimmer into compartment 'A' and timed how long it would take to travel the full length of compartment 'C' and inspected whether any of the solid waste had fallen out of suspension or whether it just got pulled along in the flow. To my astonishment the velocity of water along this stretch of the sump (i.e. the widest section) was in excess of 1ft/sec and only the largest of particles stayed in the bottom without being pulled up and over the mixer baffle before ending up back at the return pumps. Although this might seem alarming it should be remembered that this sump is only 12" wide. If I had been using a 24" wide sump this velocity would be halved although in my case this was not an option due to cabinet space. A worthwhile exercise though, would be to look at your own sump to see how fluid flows through it and to determine exactly how much waste is actually making it right through and back to the tank ?. In action this design is quite simply an effort to control free waste levels within the system as a whole, whilst at the same time ensuring that what waste is present, is either directed to where it can be utilised properly or removed from the system via the sponge and skimmer. the key to the course sponge is in cleaning it weekly to prevent it going biological.
Shot to highlight Baffle arrangement.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/2002_0730_225526AA.jpg
The following shots cover various aspects of the design and a section covering the plate sizes is also included should you wish to duplicate this design for yourself.
Fig 1
http://www.reef-eden.net/2002_0730_225556AA.JPG[/URL]
Fig 2
http://www.reef-eden.net/2002_0730_225622AA.JPG
'Fig 1 ' Shows the DSB section raised on the four stilts. these were simply made from Air lift tubing silicone'd to the base of the sump and to the DSB base plate. You will notice that the RH end plate for the DSB is higher than all the other baffles including the LH end plate for the DSB. This ensures that water cannot flow back into the skimmer feed compartment where the beneficial food given out by the DSB would be wasted by being skimmed off.
'Fig 2' Shows a top view with the frag tray in place. The four gang valves at the other end, are for the various RO feeds for auto topup valve and staorage container etc. Water will flow direct from the RO/DI unit to the main input and is then split to the Auto top-up float valve which will be plumbed through the sump back panel at water level in the last (variable) compartment, and the surplus is then sent to a remote storage container ready for use when doing water changes and to feed the kalk stirrer via a paristaltic pump, the fourth valve is a spare.
All the glass used for the internals was 3mm thick. and silicone'd in place using pure silicone sealer. It was not necessary to go thicker than this, as there is no pressure internally against the panels except water flow.
Tank Dimensions 48 x 18 x 12
DSB Base 24 x 11 1/2
DSB RH end plate 11 1/2 x 13
DSB LH end plate 11 1/2 x 12
Baffle RH end 11 1/2 x 12
Baffle LH end 11 1/2 x 13
Baffle Slanted 11 1/2 x 13
Baffle LH far end, raised for 3" grill made from UG filter plate 11 1/2 x 13
The DSB section was then filled with water from my other setup and had a 3" layer of fine Silica sand and 2" layer of Aragamax sand settling down in it. Over the next few weeks a couple of pieces of uncured LR were added to kick-start the DSB off which was then tended for the next 6 months until the rest of the system was in its new home ready to be fired up. Over this period close attention was paid to feeding regimes and population density/diversity in the bed.
UPDATE.......April 2003.
As of April, the sump has been running attached to the main system for three months. in this time the diversity and population of organisms has increased massively. There are a multitude of small snails, tunicates, sponges, worms, pods, shrimps, and sand stars all crawling around looking for any morsels dropped in their way. The macro algae has also taken on a good spurt in growth. All parameters are holding very stable throughout the entire system with a very low NO3 reading of 1ppm and falling.
Flow through the sump has proved very beneficial in the stabilisation of pH, and very effective at controlling waste levels despite very heavy feeding from myself in the interests of increasing diversity within the DSB area. The final baffle has also proved to be of an advantage as a good place for the addition of additives such as Kalkwasser due to the very high flow rate. The following photo as taken April 1st 2003 showing the sump in action.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/DSB%20270403aa.jpg
You can find more detailed info on this and other DSB's, on these pages
[URL="http://www.reef-eden.net/DSBs.htm"]DSB's (http://www.reef-eden.net/2002_0730_225556AA.JPG)
and heres a page on my 2006 Tower sump DSB
New DSB (http://www.reef-eden.net/new_dsb.htm)
Hope this helped.
Regards
Si.
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