View Full Version : Calerpa/chaeto
Marc Foord
29-09-05, 11:35
i've mentioned this in passing before on other posts, but the time has come to try to pick some expert brains for thoughts on this one as it's annoyed me for long enough.... :)
for some reason, i can't seem to grow calerpa/chaeto. i packed the sump (can't see through it - so literally a mass of green algae) with calerpa and a bit of chaeto (thanks to a local reefer....cheers steve.. :) ) about a month ago now, and it has thinned out to the extent i can see through it and there are spots around where there is none...
it doesn't go white/a-sexual, it just literally disappears/thins out :blink: :wacko:
some background :
system is 5 x 2 x 2 with a 3 foot sump
fish stocking not too over-the-top.... largest being a sailfin and yellow tang (sailfin i'd guess at around 5 inches or so, yellow probably half that size), but mostly smaller fish (flame hawk, neon goby, mandarin, orchid dottyback, bicolour blenny, pair of bangaiis, blue damsel)
fish fed mainly once a day with either a decent mix of flake (formula 1, 2, cyclopeze flake, brine shrimp etc) sometimes with a small bit of cyclop-eze or golden pearls. every 2 or 3 days, they are fed 3 cubes instead. daily dosing of instant-algea concentrated live phyto.
sump is lit by two t8s (30w each iirc) - with freshwater plant bulbs (LFS recommended - make sense to me - i.e. if you can grow plants under them, algae should also like them). one of these is nicely aged, so quite pinky (so theoretically better still for algae growth). lighting was originally reverse lit, from 6pm to 6am, but for the last 3 months or so, i've increased this so it's run from 6pm to midday, so 18 hours a day.
run phosphate remover permanently - one lot in a phosban 150 reactor, and another lot in an eheim canister filter - replaced when deltec test kit shows a reading.
run rowa carbon permanently - a small filter bag's worth, replaced every 2 weeks usually.
my nitrates have stuck at around 25-30ppm (discovered nitrates were SKY high about a year ago, and after some severe preventative measures, got them down and consistently staying at the current level)
sump also has a few mangroves - one growing well (5 or so leaves opened up nicely, the rest not so well - think due to lack of regular spraying of their leaves)
--------------
given the nitrates present, and the lighting, i'd expect the algae to be growing out of the doors of the cabinet
so....(yes, got there in the end.... :lol: ) the question is
WHY? !
go figure....
thanks in advance for advice
best wishes
marc
BlankFrank
29-09-05, 12:18
You must be lacking something I have (just threw out a binbag full of chaeto last night - only about 1/3 left)
I have 6x2x2 main tank quite heavily stocked.
4 foot sump with mud section and chaeto - reverse light cylce with D&D megatwin T5 (used to be over 4 foot main tank before I upgraded tank and got MH) I also have some Bio-balls before the mud/algae section.
Also run Rowaphos permanently in a phosban reactor.
Nitrates still high(ish) at 15-20
Only differences I can see would be Bio-balls/stronger lighting/mud/other algae's and mangroves(I don't have)
Which of these (if any) make the difference I couldn't say for sure but thought it might help to let you know what (appears) to be different.
Marc Foord
29-09-05, 14:08
thanks blankfrank
throwing chaeto away ? :o :lol:
i did wonder whether i need to light further still than 18 hours, but given you're OK with reverse lit (as i was originally) and i'm not getting the algae going a-sexual (for which more lighting is usually recommended) then i'm not sure this is worthwhile - and i'd like to give the T8 ballasts a bit of a rest/time to cool down.... :)
above and beyond nitrate (which i have enough of to go round :rolleyes: ), phosphates (which are usually 0 but i'm sure there must be some to be taken up by the algae) and light, what else does this stuff want to grow/maintain itself ?
Glenn@home
29-09-05, 14:37
MArc
I dont quite have the problem you seem to but my caulerpa doesnt grow rampantly as others experience.
I did wonder if it was turnover related in my case.
I have a 6x2x2 with 3 foot sump and the sump return is an eheim 1060 so around 2000lph after losse for head.
It is noticeable that the flow in the sump is pretty slack hence my thoughts.
Glenn
PS FWIW i have used a standard household lamp and now a t8 growlux on 24/7, not difference in my case.
Sonce many others use household lamps and shorter photo periods i dont think its light related in my case.
Marc Foord
29-09-05, 14:42
hi glenn
as part of lowering my sky-high nitrates i was advised to cut down the flow through my sump - was running 2 x 1060s and an aquabee 2000, so now just using the 1 x 1060 only (thoughts were that too much flow = 'dirty' water not allowed enough contact time with calerpa and skimmer etc)
i do get a bit of red cyno growing on top of the calerpa in some places in the sump - i guess a sign of not enough flow, but unsure how it should solve that if you think that's the cause of it ?
would be very interested in your further thoughts/experiences on this one :)
ta!
marc
BlankFrank
29-09-05, 14:44
I'm not sure it's flow Glenn
I use one of these (http://www.aquaworldlimited.co.uk/acatalog/Weipro_Water_Pumps.html) - the 4000lph one.
I'm guessing from the price the size and the flow (compared to my OR6500 closed loop pump) that it pumps at considerably less than quoted figures......
It probably needs a clean too :blush:
Glenn@home
29-09-05, 15:01
perhaps ots worth poinitng out for clarity sake that the actual flow in lph is not really the cirteria thats of value but the velocity of water through the caulerpa i think.
For example if my sump was 6x2x2 the velocity through the sump would be a lot less than it is over my 3x1x1.5.
So maybe comparing lph is not that relelvant.
But i do think that in my case the velocity of water through the sump is not very high, if the caulerpa is to grow effectively i would think that the concentration of nutirnet in the water flowing past would be highest with a high flow rate rather than a low one.
i.e. the opnger the contact time the more nutrients removed potentially. SO i would have thought that overall it would be better to have a velocity slightly to fast than too slow.
At least thats my thoughts, i havent measured no2/3 for a while now and since i have lost my mani circulation pump until i get it replaced i think this would skew my results in the sense that the flow in the main tank has been reduced.
But prior to the main circ pump going wrong, my no2/3 was quite low, measureable butg on the lowest division on my salifert kits when using the high sensitivity approach.
Interesting though because ive never really had much growth from my caulerpa although i did have a stage where it needed pruning but not much recently.
Marc,
there are several type of Chaeto
the one you want is the CHAETOMORPHA LINUM is not as brittle as the others and very dark green
i can get you some if you like :thumbsup:
let me know
:thanx:
Lukmek
:cheers:
Originally posted by Marc Foord@Sep 29 2005, 13:42
hi glenn
as part of lowering my sky-high nitrates i was advised to cut down the flow through my sump - was running 2 x 1060s and an aquabee 2000, so now just using the 1 x 1060 only (thoughts were that too much flow = 'dirty' water not allowed enough contact time with calerpa and skimmer etc)
i do get a bit of red cyno growing on top of the calerpa in some places in the sump - i guess a sign of not enough flow, but unsure how it should solve that if you think that's the cause of it ?
would be very interested in your further thoughts/experiences on this one :)
ta!
marc
marc
try a maxi jet 1200 power head connected to a spray bar spraying over the top of the algae surface skimming it worked for me
used to throw loads away
yours
matt
Originally posted by lukmek@Sep 30 2005, 18:44
Marc,
there are several type of Chaeto
the one you want is the CHAETOMORPHA LINUM is not as brittle as the others and very dark green
i can get you some if you like :thumbsup:
I'm about to set up an algae 'farm' in the sump of my new setup. Any chance of some 'freebies' :D also some newbie advice on setting it up. ie planting it!! :blink:
wont your skimmer be taking nutrients out the tank that the algae would feed on?
id be tempted to turn off your skimmer, make sure you have plenty of surface agition in your main tank though
what are your trace elements like, the stuff in my tank thrives when I've got decent levels of strontium and magnesium but slows down significantly if both are depleted
Marc, AFAIK, you need a balance of both phosphate and nitrate to be able to EFFECTIVELY utilise macro as an export mechanism.
FWIW IME, It's tough to mix and match methodologies, the mass of cheato from the earlier meetings was from an unskimmed natural system, the BB with phos filteration and heavy skimming will simply not support the macro growth, having said that I've never tried t5's in the BB sump, that's what was used in the natural, but I somehow doubt it would make a difference.
there are some rambling on Rc from Dr R about the effects of iron limitation that may be worth a gander.
I have had similar problems myself. I keep buying caulerpa but to no avail, it continues to perish slowly. On the basis of this i would probably go with chaeto but have great difficulty trying to find any. Non of my LFS have any, i ordered some over the net once it was the tiniest clump and pale green extremely fragile and slow growing. Not sure of the exact species but certainly dont think this is the best one to have.
Lukmek...is the CHAETOMORPHA LINUM fast growing and hardy?? And can you help me get some..i am willing to pay...your help would be appreciated....
ps. my parameters are unremarkable. po4 jsut above 0, nitrates slightly raised. Dose regularly with trace elements. Have 120g reef with 3ft sump. DSB with mineral mud/live sand. Return via OR2500. Low stocking, 50kg LR and no skimmer for 3/12 (i am experimenting :) :) )
Good tread by the way
nile
Marc,
What is the layout of your sump?
I'm guessing that skimmer is in the first chamber, could you tee off the feed to the skimmer and run some of the tank water straight into the next chamber of the sump and see if that helps? It might be slightly more nutrient rich.
Another option would be to possibly remove your phosphate remover for a while and see if that helps? I'm not sure what your setup is like but that might help with the balance of phos/nitrate that Nav is talking about.
It does seem likely that the best way to keep an active fuge/algea export system would be to reduce the skimming and leave the phos in the tank and remove the algea from time to time.
Quite nice to shake out some algea every now and then in the main tank to put some pods back in the system. Have you got space above the tank? I've got a little tank you could feed with a small powerhead and run as an over tank fuge, which would be fed by the less skimmed tank water. (but I think the easiest way of increasing algea growth would be to cut right back with the phos remover.
Kev
Marc Foord
03-10-05, 10:04
thanks for all replies everyone..... appreciated :)
replying one by one.... :)
there are several type of Chaeto
the one you want is the CHAETOMORPHA LINUM is not as brittle as the others and very dark green
i can get you some if you like
if i can try a bit of that please luca - will see how if fares..... thanks :)
try a maxi jet 1200 power head connected to a spray bar spraying over the top of the algae surface skimming it worked for me
used to throw loads away
thanks matt - not thought of that option - might give that a try.
wont your skimmer be taking nutrients out the tank that the algae would feed on?
id be tempted to turn off your skimmer
good point, quite possibly it is. however, with my previous sky-high nitrates (and them still being relatively high @ about 30ish ppm, a) i'm worried/loathed to switch the skimmer off B) there should still be plenty of nitrates available for the algae to mop up surely ?
what are your trace elements like, the stuff in my tank thrives when I've got decent levels of strontium and magnesium but slows down significantly if both are depleted
i don't test for either, but whenever my lfs has tested mangnesium before, it's always been ok. i water change 20 gallons once a month, and also dose occasionally with tropic marin coral minerals (which i think are basically all of the elements in the salt mix)
Marc, AFAIK, you need a balance of both phosphate and nitrate to be able to EFFECTIVELY utilise macro as an export mechanism.
FWIW IME, It's tough to mix and match methodologies, the mass of cheato from the earlier meetings was from an unskimmed natural system, the BB with phos filteration and heavy skimming will simply not support the macro growth, having said that I've never tried t5's in the BB sump, that's what was used in the natural, but I somehow doubt it would make a difference.
nav, thanks, words of wisdom indeed.... :bow:
hadn't really sat back and thought of it like that - i guess to some extent they are battling each other and in my case, it looks like the algae is taking the hit.
having said that, steve's alage was growing like wildfire, and (although admittedly a lot larger setup and therefore more fish stock) i think his big old deltec was running 24 x 7 - he didn't run his phosphate remover mind you.
my concern with cutting out the phos remover is i do get readings of phosphate when this stuff is at the end of it's useful life - i usually either test every few weeks, or i notice the pavona looking a bit sorry for itself, and when i test, the PO4 is up - so it doesn't look like the algae 'takes up the slack' if you know what i mean.....hence why i'd be concerned to simply shut off the phosban reactor and take it out of the canister..... :unsure:
kev - the sump has one divider. the return pump (1060) and another 1060 (to feed the chiller) are in this section together with the phosban reactor.
the feed for the reactor is on the other side of the divider, and the output just next to the reactor itself.
in the other section is a very SSB, the algae, and skimmer (apf600)
from an aesthetics point of view, another tank above the current one is a definite no-no.......my life wouldn't be worth living... :lol:
hmmm.....might consider the powerhead and spray bar option to get some more water flow over it - that might also clear up the problem with the red cyno too, given that stuff isn't keen on flow
cheers all :thumbsup:
marc
Marc,
the chaetomorpha linum is very expensive :lol:
I will save some for you, start saving.... :thumbsup:
You got PM
:thanx:
:cheers:
Marc Foord
03-10-05, 16:41
:lol: i thought it might be.... :P
priced similar to the 'moodyphos' (TM arctic) - about a tenner a kilo ? ;) :lol:
Marc,
for you, and only for you £10 for 5OZ :D :D
PS my chaeto is the mexican chaetomorpha linum :thumbsup:
you wont find it cheaper elsewhere ;)
:thanx:
Marc, hope I didn't give the wrong impression :o :D
skim like crazy, and don't remove the phos remover, just find the missing link to handle the trates :)
tooo many potential paths, but all road lead to the same ends, if tuned to your needs ;)
Where is the likely source?
From conversations with Marc I got the impression he thinks its coming from the sand bed, but why would that happen?
Could it also be coming from the rock? maybe cooking it may help?
Nav, wouldn't leaving the phos reactor off for a couple of weeks to see if growth of the algea increases be a good idea?
The only detrimental effect would be short term slightly raised phos, but this could be monitored and if it got too high the reactor could be switched back on?
If the algea need both and we know Marc has Nitrate then surely its worth a go?
Kev
Nav, wouldn't leaving the phos reactor off for a couple of weeks to see if growth of the algea increases be a good idea?
The only detrimental effect would be short term slightly raised phos, but this could be monitored and if it got too high the reactor could be switched back on?
If the algea need both and we know Marc has Nitrate then surely its worth a go?
I'd try it on my own system, but would be loathed to recommend the approach to another reefer. The risks are quite high and would ideally require daily testing. Certainly don't want to put Marc in a situation where he is fighting nuisance algae.
There are always the MM and sandbed options :ph34r:
sulphur reactor :ph34r:
carbon denitrator :ph34r:
all we really know is there is lack of denitrification occuring, Marc has alot of options to play with, it's tough to determine which would suit best.
I'll bring along a bunch of macro's to try when I meet you on Sat Marc. :idea:
At this stage trying various different macros and leaving the rest as is, is probaby the safest approach. Hopefully one of the macro's will take off, If not, some tough choices will be in order.
Marc Foord
04-10-05, 22:47
nav/kev
the impression it's from the sand bed is partly on one of elliot's theories i.e. sandbed 'leaching' back out what it has taken in, plus paul & owen had high nitrates, and reduced them considerably (but not completely) by syphoning out a good part of their sand bed.
i *think* i have enough flow around the rockwork now with the two 6060's (probably not enough prior to that just relying on the sump returns) so given the tunze's have been online a good while now, if it were rock related, i'd still have expected to see the levels drop right back by now - hence my suspicion on the sand bed......rightly or wrongly.
this is really where the algae question was coming from too, indirectly. i.e. why is it not growing, when there's nitrates, and it should be working on getting those right down.
i'm getting 5 more mangroves via luca on saturdaym and i've found the 1 sample one i got before from luca is doing well - 6 or so leaves, opening nicely and dark green, whereas the other ones i had previously have shrivelled back. i'm hoping these will have some impact too - albeit slowly.
I'll bring along a bunch of macro's to try when I meet you on Sat Marc
thanks nav, appreciate it. i got some of the grape calerpa from t&m the other week and it literally disintegrated overnight, so that one's a definite no-no.... :wacko:
i'm seriously thinking of adding a little spray bar in the sump as per one of the recommendations on this thread - i could probably run one off of the existing return from the chiller, as that is pumped via a 1060 which gives a decent flow back - should be enough to power a little spraybar decently. if not, i'll maybe hook up another little powerhead to a spraybar instead... worthwhile do you think?
i'm not keen on switching out the moodyphos (tm!) as, as said, when i do get a phosphate reading the pavona takes a caning and the turbinaria also tends to not put out polyps either....... so don't want any undue suffering on my corals.
thanks again all.
keep any ideas coming... :)
:cheers:
marc
There was an excellent thread a while ago
http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/index.p...opic=43584&st=0 (http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=43584&st=0)
which looks into some of the growth aspects, take a look at some of the comments from Andrew regarding iron requirements.
Marc,
Have you tried controlled growth in the main tank?
In a small breeding net type area, there's no reason why the algea should grow there if it doesn't grow in the sump but possibly worth a go.
I suppose another option would be to add more sand, to turn it into a dsb. Is there any substrate in your sump?
Kev
Marc Foord
06-10-05, 21:31
nav :thanx: (yet again! :) )
kev - hmmm...might try that too.
the sump has a SSB at the moment, in the section where the calerpa/chaeto is.
Mark, I seem to rememebr me and you discussing this issue in other threads and PMs at times in the past, as we both had the same issue.
I grow caulerpa and chaeto now successfully in my sump, although the chaeto is outcompeting the caulerpa of late. Just two days ago I threw a bucket of the stuff out.
What Ive changed since we last spoke is Ive added another three inches of sand to my sump, so five in total, have slowed the flow through the sump down, to approx 3 times tank volume per hour, and as has already been mentioned the flow really looks sluggish.
Also the lighting is now a cheapo 15" Lifeglo.
Lots of peeps talk about cheapo lighting, some just use a normal household bulb.
However, those that talk about phosphate balances with nitrates etc bla bla, I cant get my head round that. Theres no way Ill be adding phosphates to try to achieve a balance, we have to make do with what we have in terms of conditions.
My skimmer seems almost redundant. Havent touched it in a fortnight, nitrates of 5ppm.
My changes, which since having been implemented, have effected a marked change in growth, have been slow the flow down, change the bulb and add sand to deepen the bed.
If you want any chaeto or caulerpa PM, Frogfone sent me some, so Ill pass some on if u like.
Matt
Marc Foord
07-10-05, 11:01
thanks matt :) glad you made some decent headway with your issue - hope something i warbled on about helped in some way.... :lol:
i was considering taking some sand out of the main display (where it had heaped up pretty deep around the sides mainly - the streams have blown most of the other stuff away :lol: ), so maybe i should put that into the sump instead of getting rid or passing it on ? it would no way make it 5 inches deep though. i'd guess currently the sand in the sump is probably an inch deep.
i *think* the lighting is ok - they are t8's, so not excessive, and one of the bulbs in particular is old and pinky, which i'd expect to be better for calerpa growth anyhow (?)
a few things for me to consider anyhow - particulaly like the idea of the spraybar which i think i'll do ......
thanks
marc
Marc,
got some mexican chaetomorpha linum for you :thumbsup:
just PM me
:thanx:
Marc,
arriba arriba :D
PM reply sent :thumbsup:
:thanx:
Marc,
Making the sand bed in the sump deeper sounds like a good idea, so you can get it working as a dsb, which would then help with the filteration and reduction of nitrates??
I'm sure Nav is the man to talk to on this.
Kev
Edit:
if you need more sand I have some.....
However, those that talk about phosphate balances with nitrates etc bla bla, I cant get my head round that. Theres no way Ill be adding phosphates to try to achieve a balance, we have to make do with what we have in terms of conditions.
Matt,
addition could equal subtraction !, it's about balance of ratio's. My head explodes on a daily basis and i still know bugg*r all. But most creditable literate points in this direction, don't make do, delve a tad deeper :ph34r: :thumbsup:
a nice article, prob one of the best for comparing macro's
http://www.botany.hawaii.edu/Bot482/Kaneoh...0Mar%20Biol.pdf (http://www.botany.hawaii.edu/Bot482/Kaneohe%20Bay%20algae%20N-P%20Larned%20Mar%20Biol.pdf)
Ive added another three inches of sand to my sump, so five in total
My skimmer seems almost redundant. Havent touched it in a fortnight, nitrates of 5ppm.
you now have a bigger sink!
Matt, from a practical viewpoint, I respect your having achievied a working balance in your system :bow: It's no easy game.
Marc,
how are the new species of macro doing ?
Marc Foord
14-10-05, 09:30
would i just add new sand on top of what is there ?
nav - the new ones seem to be holding their own currently. i'm getting some of the 'speedy gonzales' chaeto from luca at the weekend i think, so will bung that in too. i'm going to try to get the spraybar sorted out this weekend too if i get a chance, as there is still red cyno growing on top of the macros in the sump, which i'd like to clear, and figure would help with the growth if it did get cleared......
Marc Foord
28-11-05, 16:44
a quick (well...quick "ish" ... :P ) update
made a couple of changes
1. added a 402 powerhead which feeds from the left hand division of the sump (where the return pump is) to the right hand division (where the skimmer and chaeto/calerpa is) - into a spray bar
2. removed polyfilter (which i've been running permanently since my original nitrate problem - just another weapon in the armoury) - thinking about it, this was somethinh worth mentioning in all of this, and don't think i did.... :rolleyes: :blush: ... although i'm not sure/convinced exactly what and how much polyfilter has the ability to remove
3. replaced the old pinky bulb which i always thought and was led to believe was good for algae growth. replaced with same type as before - t8 30w freshwater tropical bulb - the 2nd bulb is the same type and was new a few months back. my lfs said he had a problem with growing algaes and when he replaced bulbs/increased light it had a major growth spurt, so thought this was well worth a shot.
i topped up the algae that was there with some extra (thanks again to steve rochford :) - including some of the grape calerpa which just disintegrated on me overnight before - and some from my lfs.
well, over the last few weeks, there has been a noticeable growth spurt. in addition to being able to see shoots appearing and growing out, the whole sump's algae bed is very thick now. :dance:
the 6 mangroves i also have in the sump have grown pretty decent roots too
so all in all good news....however when i tested my nitrates last (last week) they were still stuck at their usual level (oh how i long to see a lighter colour than the mid-pink on the salifert test kit..... :rolleyes: :lol: )
anyhow, i added c. 10k of matured live rock to the sump on saturday evening (thanks to arctic -kev-), so with that combined with the algae growth, SURELY my nitrates will HAVE to come down further still
will report back on the results of my next nitrate test, but i won't get my hopes up just in case.... :rolleyes:
Good luck, ive got 80kg cured live rock, algae in the sump and a Tunze bio reactor in a Rio 400 tank and my nitrates are like yours so I watch with interest.
South Acton boy living in W Wales and new to ALL this
:blink:
Marc,
I received some lab cultured bacterial cultures this week, that is short should demolish nitrates at a rapid pace. I'll do two weeks of testing, If/when all is well, are you happy to let me use your system for my deviant purposes B) .
Give me a call when u get a mo.
Marc Foord
05-12-05, 09:37
I received some lab cultured bacterial cultures this week, that is short should demolish nitrates at a rapid pace. I'll do two weeks of testing, If/when all is well, are you happy to let me use your system for my deviant purposes
aah....another nav special project eh ? :lol:
i'd assume this stuff is probably like the AZ NO3 stuff which i used before (that was before i had the nems though.... :unsure: )
can call you from work today or when convenient - let me know :)
Hows the algea looking marc?
Kev
Marc Foord
06-12-05, 16:36
hi kev
it's still going strong - the sump is pretty decently think with the stuff, and i can see runners growing out to the sides etc too BUT when i last tested nitrates they were still at the same level they've been for MONTHS (about 30-40ppm according to the salifert kit) - i double checked the RO in my top up reservoir (to check it, and the test kit too) and that showed virtually 0
am going to test again this week to see if another week has made a difference, but i'll not get my hopes up too much :rolleyes:
it just makes little or no sense to me how it can be stuck there - i think i have enough rock and flow in the main tank, plus i run carbon 24 x 7 and the skimmer seems to work OK. i don't overfeed (at least don't think i do.... ) and the calerpa/chaeto is growing.
:blink:
:wacko:
cheers
marc
steve rochford
06-12-05, 17:21
Hi Marc are you stripping some of the algae out now that it is growing well.
obviously if you take the old out you will be exporting the nitrates with it.
Just a thought (thinking aloud ) HTH
steve
Marc Foord
06-12-05, 17:30
hi steve
not stripping it out as yet....i assumed (rightly or wrongly!) that the algae 'holds onto' the nitrate unless it's eaten by a fish and pooped back out again of perhaps if it dies off ?
cheers
marc
steve rochford
06-12-05, 17:41
Originally posted by Marc Foord@Dec 6 2005, 17:30
hi steve
not stripping it out as yet....i assumed (rightly or wrongly!) that the algae 'holds onto' the nitrate unless it's eaten by a fish and pooped back out again of perhaps if it dies off ?
cheers
marc
when you get new growth from thinning out, the old the nitrate take up is probably better with the new off shoots, rather than the aged stuff AS you know i didn"t have many probs growing it but i did strip out quiet a lot every week or so and the more i took out the quicker the new stuff grew so i would think that new fresh growth (more light with thinned out areas) would be better
JMOP
Steve
I've had the same experience as steve, def worth pulling it out so you get new growth.
Marc have you thought that the rock might be the problem?
Kev
Marc Foord
07-12-05, 17:09
thanks kev, will give it a shot.
Marc have you thought that the rock might be the problem?
in what sense ?
Well, I'm not totally sure but old rock may become ineffective as it gets covered in coralline e.t.c. which may possibly not be helping with your problems. I can't deal with rc its too fast but they talk of cooking old rock to "clear it out".
Kev
Marc Foord
08-12-05, 12:16
i guess that cross refers to the 'old tank syndrome' thread currently in the ask the panel section.....
hope it's not that....but running out of causes/solutions really. at the moment i can only realistically see it being either the rock or the sand 'holding onto it' but can't really wrap my head around that concept to be honest :huh:
tested nitrates last night and - lo and behold - they were the same as always so despite the algaes growing it's made b*gger all difference :(
hoping nav's miracle nitrate eater might be the be all and end all solution, but always concerns me adding anything to the tank like that just in case....to say i'd be gutted to lose stock is an understatement......
will see how nav's tests go and decide from there methinks.
vBulletin® v3.8.7, Copyright ©2000-2012, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.