View Full Version : Reef-Eden 2006 (Its got Bigger)
simon garratt
23-05-06, 12:06
Link to the old 200 gall system.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/showthread.php?t=143207
Reef-Eden 2006 (Its got Bigger)
(and more bloody expensive )
.................................................. .............................................
Well its time to bang up a few shots of the new one thats underway.
New house = new tank and all that. Ive managed to procure from the misses a good portion of our Garage/Dining room convertion....On condition i basicaly rebuild the entire downstaires (no joke there) before i was allowed to start on the tank room. That being just about done, Im now starting on the main convertion which consists of splitting the dining room in half making the back end a tank room with the tank showing through the wall. This also involves a rather large disc cutter and a new door at the far end to grant me access from the porch area.
This is a shot of the badly done garage convertion, 2 days after we moved in looking 'from' the living room which was still under construction at this point) into the (temporary living room) proposed dining area. a partition wall will sit about a ft in front of the dropped ceiling that you can see haf way down the room which is where a picture frame will allow the tank behind to be veiwed.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Garage convert 2.jpg
this is where it gets all secrative and the dust sheets go up. (note the living room is now finished and i need a break)....
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Garage 2a.jpg
and this is how its hopefully going to end up.
http://www.reef-eden.net/fishroom%202006%20airial.jpg
simon garratt
23-05-06, 12:06
a bit more detail.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/fishroom%2020062.jpg
The sump assembly.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/sump%20assembly.jpg
Proposed basic system specs at this stage are.
78 x 42 x 30 (6.5 x 3.5 x 2.5) tank with tower sump making up around 400 gall total volume. run by an AP702 skimmer, 4 Sequence 10000 closed loops, and a sequence 10000lph return pump feeding various reactors etc as well as the main tank and cryptic zone at the top of the sump assembly.
Lighting will be supplied by 2 400w 10k BLVs run off electronic ballasts and Diamond reflectors (many thanks to Rob at Marine Lighting for the exelent service as usual) and a bank of T5 actinic blues.
Thats about it for the time being. Ill add more as things progress.
Regards
Si.
will be waching this one closely wish my wife to be would give me that much of the house !!!
your a lucky man
nice drawings - hows the nano doing?
simon garratt
23-05-06, 12:38
nice drawings - hows the nano doing?
Fine. to be honest its just been sitting there in my office doing ...well....not a lot....:rolleyes: ....
Im really just keeping it going as something to look at at the mo rather than pushing it at all. What with all the building work etc. there just isnt enough time in the day at this stage to really give it any more than basic weekly maintanance.
I feel guilty now.:rolleyes:
another one ripping a house apart the week he moves in - love it!
TheThingIs
23-05-06, 13:05
Si, with regards to the triangle overflow, good idea to have it right across the tank, I almost did the same! I find that small fish, chromis and percs, tend to go over the top and end up in the sump, well when first introduced they did. Do yours do this and did you do anything to stop it? I'm thinking a grill at the top would have been better. Just a thought for you whilst you've got time to make this kind of change.
Only 2 400w? That be enough? I have 3 on mine and it's only 5' :D
Lee
simon garratt
23-05-06, 13:11
Im pretty sure that 2 will be fine for starters as i want a few dimmer areas for LPs etc anyway. (we'll see) I may add a 20K in the middle at some point.
As for the weir, ive allready got a load of acrylic to make a full length weir comb.:D
Prometheus
23-05-06, 13:19
you have my attention, watching with interest:D
Interesting - apart from cost, any reason why you are using BLV rather than XM?
IIRC you had a very positive view of XMs (apologies if I am confusing you with someone else) and I'm deciding which lamps to get next...
G
simon garratt
23-05-06, 13:42
Its Simon Clark that uses XM's if i recall. Ive allways been an advocate of BLV's mainly becouse ive run them without lenses before with good success. as the saying goes, 'if it aint broke' although i am playing with the actinics this time it must be said to see what results i get..
Regards
Si.
almost makes me think of moving house just so i can rip it apart for a new tank! lol..... i did say almost ;) good luck, definitely watching with interest
keith hellyar
23-05-06, 14:03
Looking good Si.
I'm starting to plan my next upgrade. Not as big as yours but probably a 4.5 x 3 x 2.5. It will be positioned as a room divider viewable on 3 sides. I may go 3 high but the costs escalate due to glass thickness.
I like your wier idea so I think I will incorporate that along the 3 foot dimension. How do you propose to control weir noise? Will a modified Durso fit or is it less of a concern for you bearing in mind yours will be in an enclosed room.
Surprised you are not going for lumenarc reflectors. I'm considering them but price is frightening me. I have an idea though. I'll talk to you about it on Thursday.
I'm watching with interest
Keith
This looks like it's going to be another stunning tank! Love those hole in the wall tanks.
I put a weir in like that on a 4x2x2 I had and it seemed to work well with the benefit of extra surface skimming...Big Bubbas got it in his shed now!
What package did you use to do those superb drawings?
Cheers
Steve
EnglishReefer
23-05-06, 14:38
I do like the CAD drawings:) , is there any way you can play with the layout and get a full height skimmer in there?
i love the look of these wider tanks, i could have gone for a wider one on mine but went for 6 x 2.5 x 2 mainly due to costs as the price shoots up. one thing that intrigues me though, how easy is it going to be to reach the front of the tank?
i struggle with my hole in the wall tank reaching the front and i stand on a step ladder, ok im only 5ft8" and i think you are a bit taller if i recall, but its going take verrry long arms to get over the top and down to the bottom even stood on steps. maybe Tuan can answer this as his tank is of a similar size i believe
muzzy
keith hellyar
23-05-06, 15:59
i love the look of these wider tanks, i could have gone for a wider one on mine but went for 6 x 2.5 x 2 mainly due to costs as the price shoots up. one thing that intrigues me though, how easy is it going to be to reach the front of the tank?
i struggle with my hole in the wall tank reaching the front and i stand on a step ladder, ok im only 5ft8" and i think you are a bit taller if i recall, but its going take verrry long arms to get over the top and down to the bottom even stood on steps. maybe Tuan can answer this as his tank is of a similar size i believe
muzzy
Snorkel and Flippers:D
Keith
looking good si, its good to see some progress at last, keep us all posted and i hope it all goes to plan..
regards,..............rupert.
simon garratt
23-05-06, 23:14
I like your wier idea so I think I will incorporate that along the 3 foot dimension. How do you propose to control weir noise? Will a modified Durso fit or is it less of a concern for you bearing in mind yours will be in an enclosed room.
Keith. it doesnt use any form of stand pipe. water exits strait from two 50mm bukheads at the back of the tank in the weir, along a pipe and then a short drop (about 6") into the second compartment of the sump assembly which is set just below the level of the weir itself, so no need for elaborate noise prevention there. Although each of the sump compartments 'is' using durso's to run from one, down to the next.
The graphics package is 'Sketchup' (many thanks to a member of the MGTG for that).
is there any way you can play with the layout and get a full height skimmer in there?
Trust me ive tried (an AM500 twin) but there just aint the space without taking it from the tank dimentions. As it is, im fitting the whole lot into a 7.5' x 8.0' room.
The main reason behind the sump desighn was that i needed space for several sequence pumps, (this desighn has a 2x2 footprint) plus the skimmer, Ca reactor, an FR616 reactor etc etc. So in the end i recon ive got pretty much an ideal use of available space whilst still keeping everything easily accessable.
One of the biggest issues has been the room hight, which at just over 7.5ft creates problems of its own, especially in cramming lighting in over the tank and having an adequate distance between the water surface and bulbs so it doesnt fry the tank.
This was the reason for the AP702 wich at 600mm high allowes me to lower the tank down slightly without having any space issues.
Muzzy. Im not too worried about being able to reach the front as the lights will be able to slide on a cable, plus, with some creative rockwork, im planning on keeping the front area of sand relatively clear and open. It will still be a stretch and squeeze but hey, thats half the fun.
regards
Si.:)
keith hellyar
23-05-06, 23:24
Simon
Just taken a look at your diagram. I understand now. It looks like a potential noise free method.
I might have to rethink my weir design then because I need a durso. Maybe a square/oblong weir in the top 1/3 of the tank. I'm trying to avoid a full length weir for two reasons. It takes up room in the tank and secondly its a bugger to retrieve livestock when they go "over the top"
Keith
simon garratt
23-05-06, 23:33
Why dont you have a full width weir across the back like mine, but have it feeding into an external box thats seald to the back of the tank with a Durso in it? (bit like the end of steve's tank.
regards
Si.
keith hellyar
24-05-06, 07:51
Why dont you have a full width weir across the back like mine, but have it feeding into an external box thats seald to the back of the tank with a Durso in it? (bit like the end of steve's tank.
regards
Si.
Ill have to remeasure. Trouble is it may mean that I woould need to reduce the length of the tank to accomodate.
Keith
simon garratt
24-05-06, 08:50
Keith. You only need to loose about 4" for the box. That will allow 2 40mm durso's to be fitted (sideways) into the box.
regards
Si.
Looking nice Si, look forward to seeing more pics. Nice design - have you done this before ? :D ? :D ?
simon garratt
24-05-06, 09:40
have you done this before
TOOOOOOO many times;)
petergillett
24-05-06, 09:50
Cracking project!
Just a thought about the pipework from the tank. If it's a full length weir and the pipework is joined at the right hand side, why have the hole and pipe running to the left hand side? It doesn't appear to increase flow and I don't see how it would save from a blockage.
I'm sure whilst standing on steps reaching into the tank that pipe will really get in the way.
Excellent a chance to see how a tank setup should be done:)
Well I mean if your going to learn from peoples mistakes, might as well learn from someone who knows what their doing:D :D
TheThingIs
24-05-06, 12:48
Cracking project!
Just a thought about the pipework from the tank. If it's a full length weir and the pipework is joined at the right hand side, why have the hole and pipe running to the left hand side? It doesn't appear to increase flow and I don't see how it would save from a blockage.
I'm sure whilst standing on steps reaching into the tank that pipe will really get in the way.
Pete, if youre familiar with Si's designs and look closely, there is a hole at each end of the tank which is why the pipe runs right across.....2 holes u see, now that does safeguard against blockage :D
Lee
TheThingIs
24-05-06, 13:20
Im pretty sure that 2 will be fine for starters as i want a few dimmer areas for LPs etc anyway. (we'll see) I may add a 20K in the middle at some point.
As for the weir, ive allready got a load of acrylic to make a full length weir comb.:D
ahhhh but you sure your gonna be able to stick acrylic on there, as you well know it's not the best stuff to silicone to glass. My 2 triangle overflows I had to make with a back on so that I had enough surface area for it to stick to. Now if you had to do that for the whole length it'll be tricky. Why don't you do it in glass and then stick a comb to it? Like this...
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/weir.jpg
HTH
Lee
ah yes, other simon - thanks!
EnglishReefer
24-05-06, 14:32
Shame about the squeeze for space, the 5000 twin would of given you a lot more skimming power for your money and would prolly of stopped you having to upgrade in the future.
All looks pretty good though, get it started before you get stuck doing any more DIY!!! :D :D
petergillett
24-05-06, 14:36
Pete, if youre familiar with Si's designs and look closely, there is a hole at each end of the tank which is why the pipe runs right across.....2 holes u see, now that does safeguard against blockage :D
Lee
Yes, I'd spotted the hole at both ends! My query was if the pipe is blocked to the right of the right hand hole, you could have 50 holes along the weir and not save you from blockage. If the pipe won't block, why bother with the second hole? Or why not put the second hole next to the first so they are both on the right hand side?
Having 3ft front to back myself (at only 2ft deep) I know I almost climb on the tank to reach stuff. If I had that piece of pipe running across I would have broken it by now!
great to see you building again si,looking forward to seeing this grow.
looks a cracking set up!
:)
Yes, I'd spotted the hole at both ends! My query was if the pipe is blocked to the right of the right hand hole, you could have 50 holes along the weir and not save you from blockage. If the pipe won't block, why bother with the second hole? Or why not put the second hole next to the first so they are both on the right hand side?
Having 3ft front to back myself (at only 2ft deep) I know I almost climb on the tank to reach stuff. If I had that piece of pipe running across I would have broken it by now!
this is exactly what im thinking,
i guess you could run a ladder across the top of the tank and crawl over it?!
seriously si, your gonna struggle reaching the front bottom of the tank if you ever wanna stick some corals down there or retrieve one etc etc.
like pete im also falling in the tank to reach the bottom of my 2.5 foot high 2 ft front to back one.
only way i can see having access to this area is having the hole made higher on the dining room side and having access panels put above the tank.
anyway, its gonna look great when its done. watching with interest
keith hellyar
24-05-06, 16:42
Looking on the bright side. If he loses something at the back of the tank, it will be at the front:D :D
Keith
as you well know it's not the best stuff to silicone to glass
?
Couldnt be easier.. Superglue, and then line edges with bead of silicon.
Pretty damn rock solid if you ask me. Mine are done that way. And I'd need a knife to seperate them.
simon garratt
25-05-06, 08:32
Come on guys wheres the imagination.:D
The weir combs will be removable (like the aquamedic ones) they will be in two sections that just clip over the brace bar and butt up against the edge of the weir plate. This is so i can take them off for cleaning etc.
Pete.
The pipe that runs across the back will be a 50mm so the chances of it blocking are quite remote to be honest. The reason for two outlets is that i want to ensure that any waste traveling over the weir has as shorter distance to an exit point as possible. This limits settlement in the weir area, especially if it passed over the weir at the far end but then had to travel 6.5ft to get to the other end before it made it to an exit. Doing it this way keeps this distance to a minimum. I may even consider a third exit in the middle yet.
As far as reaching the front goes. Ill have large Tongs for that and like i said, there wont be any corals at the bottom front any way, apart from bottom dwelling LPS like lobophyllias etc and clams, that can be just plonked in and pushed into place with the tongs etc. If there are any finicky (milliputed) corals like SPS, then theyll be raised up on branch rock etc so they'll be easyer to get to.
After all this, it may well be the case that i put two lift up hatches in the wall above the front of the tank for emergency access.
regards
Si.
simon garratt
25-05-06, 08:45
Matty. The return pipe has two taps that control both flow to the Cryptic tank, and the main tank. The main reason for this is that im also feeding a couple of fluidised reactors off the same line which will also be tapped, so need to control flow to each item individually, with the remainder going to the tank. Hence using a 10000lph return pump.
I may well use an acrylic wall to hold back sand again to be honest, but yes the rockwork will be built up on platforms etc, to give as much free space behind the rockwork as possible. This will also be where the strainers reside for the closed loops.
The main tank sand bed will only be a shallow one though much like my last tank, (about 2-3") with the main DSB being held in the sump tank immediately below the main 'incomming' section (second shallow tank) which also feeds the skimmer.
basically the sump will run as follows.
Tank to sump assembly (tank 2) down to tank 3 (DSB) then down to Tank 4 (return tank) with some of the return water running up to the Cryptic tank on top which flows strait back to the main tank. (an additional tank for a refugium will be added that sits on the widow sill next to the main sump assembly. This will be fed from the main overflow tank, through the refugium, and gravity feed back to the lower DSB tank.)
Regards
Si.
This is going to be awesome! Cant wait to see some photos of it. :cool:
[QUOTE=simon garratt]
After all this, it may well be the case that i put two lift up hatches in the wall above the front of the tank for emergency access.
[QUOTE]
or for emergency exit when you fall in :D :D
simon garratt
25-05-06, 15:49
:d
scooby_rex
25-05-06, 16:28
you will be pleased with the diamond reflectors. they will be spot on for a 2.5
petergillett
25-05-06, 19:39
...The reason for two outlets is that i want to ensure that any waste traveling over the weir has as shorter distance to an exit point as possible. This limits settlement in the weir area, especially if it passed over the weir at the far end but then had to travel 6.5ft to get to the other end before it made it to an exit. Doing it this way keeps this distance to a minimum. I may even consider a third exit in the middle yet.
I'm reading you loud and clear now!
simon garratt
30-05-06, 08:52
Shame about the squeeze for space, the 5000 twin would of given you a lot more skimming power for your money and would prolly of stopped you having to upgrade in the future.
Englishreefer.
I have a trick up my sleeve for that one. Namely two 9000lph needlewheel pumps from the states to add onto the skimmer making it in effect a monstrously overkill 704...........:D
this weekend, i got the door in, gutted the rooms and pulled the ceiling down and finally started on the partition wall.
all this 'and' i managed to get a day with the good lady to go to Ikea in Croydon. strange thing was, I only came back with 3 6way plug bars and a whole stack of segment timers...Typical reefer i recon.;)
Photies later on.
Regards
Si.
MaidstoneMarine
30-05-06, 09:08
all this 'and' i managed to get a day with the good lady to go to Ikea in Croydon.
Si,
You're a brave man but you've got to be off your rocker - nobody goes to ikea on a bank holiday weekend!
I like the system plans but we're gonna need more pictures! We're picture hungry on UR!
Chris
EnglishReefer
30-05-06, 23:54
[quote=simon garratt]Englishreefer.
I have a trick up my sleeve for that one. Namely two 9000lph needlewheel pumps from the states to add onto the skimmer making it in effect a monstrously overkill 704...........:D
Good on you, too many people scared over here of mod'ing stock equipment to get better performance (not me though ;) ), what brand you using Sedra/Gen-x etc... or have you managed to get some of sequences new needlewheel pumps... hmm sneaky if you have ;)
Keep us updated
:)
simon garratt
31-05-06, 08:42
two sedra AMG 9000's..........yum yum...:D
Poor old Stuart Bertrum is probably reading this and crying in his coffee at such a sacralige..........Sorry Stuart.;)
regards
Si.
Hi Si, any thoughts on the stocking yet? I seem to remember that quite a while back you were talking about having a Red Sea theme?
Regards,
Keith
simon garratt
31-05-06, 09:47
That still might be the case Keith. im still toying with the idea and pulling together species lists etc but im hoping it will pay off.
Then again ;) , after last years trip to the maldives, im looking at this option as well. Alass though, the golden puffers would be a no no....:(
regards
Si.
just out of interest, how many sockets do you run the plug bars off?
I'm about to move/upgrade my tank, so am getting an electrician to wire in 8 double sockets on a seperate mains ring!!!
Regards,
Greg
simon garratt
31-05-06, 14:06
Ill be running the whole system off its own consumer unit thats wired in tandem to the house one. (safety measure just in case something in the house trips the main one off)...from this ill have two lines running. one for the lighting, the other for the rest of the kit.
This second line will run to a modular socket/plug bar assembly that you can get from wicks. they just clip together on 3 big pins off a main trunk section (usually used for computor and office applications but well up to the job). Ill probably have about 4 spures with 4 sockets in each run.
Ill bang up pics as i get onto this stage as ive still got a hell of a lot of work to do yet, like running the main cabeling through the partition wall etc and all the plumbing for the RO feeds and waste etc.
regards
Si.
PS. Good news is that my Ap702 and FR616 turned up today from those nice peeps at Deltec.
EnglishReefer
31-05-06, 21:55
The sedras should liven the 702 up a bit;) , nice one.
Si
Given you have a separate CU unit dedicated for your tank, why not consider this.......
I have also set up a dedicated CU unit for my new tank but ran TWO rings for the tank's main equipment and one for the lighting.
I will have a heater and a return pump on each ring and also split my Streams accordingly.
That way, if one piece of equipment fails and trips the RCD, the other ring allows circulation and heat to continue.
If you are at the planning stage, it might make sense to consider this.
That still might be the case Keith. im still toying with the idea and pulling together species lists etc but im hoping it will pay off.
Then again ;) , after last years trip to the maldives, im looking at this option as well. Alass though, the golden puffers would be a no no....:(
regards
Si.
cor not half the damage we saw the puffers doing to the acros in the red sea nearly made us cry !! :D
Reef bloke
02-06-06, 18:04
This is going to be one to watch!
simon garratt
02-06-06, 23:12
Work is progressing nicely.
Partition wall is going up with a big hole in the middle. (i had to have this so i could see the fish ;) . ) wiring is running through, just got to do the plumbing and soundproofing before i can plaster board it all up.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/partition wall.jpg
And many thanks to Brian for getting hold of a hookin great disc cutter for me, so could cut a bloody great hole in the wall for a new doorway into the fishroom. (and plaster the neighbours car in brick dust in the process, although to be fair, I did warn him first :rolleyes: )
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/fishroom door.jpg
Thats it for the mo folks.....More soon.
regards
Si.
simon garratt
02-06-06, 23:23
And i nearly forgot.
heres the new AP702 Skimmer (possibly to be butcherd by having a third 9000lph needlewheel pump bolted to the side of it )
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/AP702.jpg
More shopping to come....:D
simon garratt
02-06-06, 23:32
And heres one of the Coralvue 400 electronic ballasts in a very fetching shade of anodised red (kindly supplied by Rob at marine lighting.). Mr clark says that it wont make them work any better. Ill beg to differ as they are so funky, the corals will be obligated to respond in kind...;)
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Coralvue E ballast.jpg
More shopping to come :D
simon garratt
02-06-06, 23:34
Not to be outdone LTD, ive run 4 rings for the various componants now after you prompted me into thinking.:D
simon garratt
03-06-06, 16:49
Well. the dining room side of the wall is complete. Plumbing is in for the RO on the other side of the wall. So its just a case of soundproofing it on that side, then a damproof membrane, then the plasterboard and its done. then comes the lovely job of putting the cieling up and tiling the whole of the tank room....
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/partition wall3.jpg
Regards
Si.
looking good
hate putting ceilings up and tileing but good luck
EnglishReefer
03-06-06, 22:00
If the tank room not got to meet the WAF you could line them with plastic, 8x4 sheets of gloss white abs/pvc - glue them to the walls and just seal the edges with silicone and you have a waterproof room. It just leaves the floor to tile ;) If its good enough for Royal-Exclusiv then its good enough for everybody else :D
sorry if this is a bit off topic but hows the nano tank that you set up si?
jamie
simon garratt
04-06-06, 08:54
Unfortuntely ER, the room will become a utility room for washing machine etc when we move on, so Im trying to bare this in mind with the way i desighn it, hence the tiling. If we decide to move on after say 8 years or so, i want it to be layed out in a way that i have only a little work to put things strait after the tank comes out. Thats one of the reasons ive plumbed it for hot 'and' cold water rather than a simple cold water feed for the RO only.
With any luck, all ill need to do is remove the tank, RSJ's and sump etc, and put a new work surface on top of the tank supports. Fill the hole in the wall and blend it in, and hey preesto, youd never know there has been some nutter living there with 400 gall of water sat in the wall. :D
regards
Si.
Not to be outdone LTD, ive run 4 rings for the various componants now after you prompted me into thinking.:D
Well done Simon. Better safe than sorry !!!!
dan-the-man
04-06-06, 09:17
Good thinking batman. Its looking great.
EnglishReefer
04-06-06, 14:21
Good plan, damn real life.. its such a pain. :-)
Good thinking, I mean what nutter would want to buy a house with 400g in the wall :D
eeeeeeeeerrr Me :p
simon garratt
04-06-06, 15:53
I can see it now. 8 yres down the line. in the classifieds.
For Sale.
'400 gall system complete. £200K ovno.......(incudes house) will not split. Buyer must be prepared to move in...
:D :D
EnglishReefer
04-06-06, 16:05
lol :-)
I can see it now. 8 yres down the line. in the classifieds.
For Sale.
'400 gall system complete. £200K ovno.......(incudes house) will not split. Buyer must be prepared to move in...
:D :D
Makes you wonder though doesn't it.
My head has gone down this route recently, trying to sell a house with a fish-room tacked on to the back with a 5' x 4' glass box of water installed, with no hope of moving it :rolleyes:
This is going to be awesome! Cant wait to see some photos of it. :cool:
I'll 2nd that. :)
Zeus
I am watching with interest. Should be great.
Lighting will be supplied by 2 400w 10k BLVs run off electronic ballasts and Diamond reflectors
What happened to your plan to use 250w double-ended? What made you change your mind?
Tony
simon garratt
14-06-06, 14:02
Simply ease of mounting, plus with the single enders i can run without cover glasses/lenses. :cool:
Regards
Si.:)
simon garratt
28-06-06, 09:00
Well. a little further down the line.
Sump glass supplied by the nice guys at GreenBurgh glass in Southampton. £220 for the lot.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/sump glass.jpg
They even ground and chamferd the edged for me....Nice people.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/glass chamfer.jpg
To anyone building thier own tanks, id strogly advise this as par for the course, it makes assembly alot easyer with straiter better joints.
And heres the nearly complete sump assembly. All ive got to do is add a few remaining baffles and drill the holes etc and shes away.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Sump assembly complete.jpg
Thats all for now folks.
Regards
Si.
si if oyur building your main tank i would ask for a slightly less aggresive chamfer, as i had mine like that and you loose a lot of bonding area for the silicone, but on small tanks its great and looks the dogs :D
simon garratt
28-06-06, 10:48
Luckily the main tank will be in 15 with with a 1mm chamfer (weve allready discussed this) so there shouldnt be any problems touch wood.
Regards
Si.
Luckily the main tank will be in 15 with with a 1mm chamfer (weve allready discussed this) so there shouldnt be any problems touch wood.
Regards
Si.
great, just thought it was worth saying :D
simon garratt
28-06-06, 11:34
Note i had to be different and go for black silicone. ;)
And it gets everywhere....:rolleyes:
SPS Hoover
28-06-06, 11:37
Well. a little further down the line
And not far enough get your finger what you being doing two days off and thats all to show for it.
I have seen vibex snails working faster that that:D
simon garratt
28-06-06, 12:03
Three words.
misses, and Kitchen-Floor..........:mad:
Three words.
misses, and Kitchen-Floor..........:mad:
Well that must result in: Her foot + your ar$e = pain :rolleyes:
simon garratt
30-06-06, 09:43
Not true. It actually increases the surface area for bonding on the end edge of the pane, while also giving the joint a 'back fill' of silicone on either side. As used by Messrs Deltec, Juwel & AquaMedic for a stronger joint.
Within reason yes, but its still important to have a good face to face contact patch to overcome sideways sheer at the center bottom of any panes. It doesnt matter how much of a bead you put in the 'V' of a joint if there isnt a sufficient flat 'face' contact patch to overcome the sideways/outwards push of water against it, otherwise the panel will simply push outwards and pop over the lip of the bead suppoorting it.. or more likekly crack at the centre pressure point asthe centre pushes outwards whilst the ends are held in place.
Chamfering the corners simply provides a better way of joining the flat face silicone to the side bead. In some cases where panels are not ground flat, the angle of the cut can be a little off 90deg, this means that when the panel is rested on the base, the lowest face effectively cuts off any possibility of base bead and side bead joining each other.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Glass bond.JPG
I think this is what Will was pointing at.
Regards
Si.:)
simon garratt
30-06-06, 10:20
So we are all in agreement then that chamfering and grinding is the best option. ? ;)
wasnt that what i said to start with.... :confused:
:D
keith hellyar
30-06-06, 10:41
So we are all in agreement then that chamfering and grinding is the best option. ? ;)
wasnt that what i said to start with.... :confused:
:D
I thought chamfering and grinding was done so that you dont cut yourself when handling the glass.:D Silcone sealant doesn't stick to blood very well.
K
simon garratt
30-06-06, 10:45
No keith,..... its so your tank doesnt look like it was built by B&Q........:D
bristlebasher
08-07-06, 10:19
Like the layout of the sump :).
Might just use some of your ideas:rolleyes:
Do you have plans to incorporate an automatic waterchange system as part of this sump?
not naming anyone, but i have seen a load of tanks built by local "tank " builders which are "as cut" no grinding or chamfering - they look unprofessional and slightly unsafe (IMO):rolleyes:
and they are charging people top whack as well!:eek:
No keith,..... its so your tank doesnt look like it was built by B&Q........:D
simon garratt
08-07-06, 15:46
not naming anyone, but i have seen a load of tanks built by local "tank " builders which are "as cut" no grinding or chamfering - they look unprofessional and slightly unsafe (IMO):rolleyes:
and they are charging people top whack as well!:eek:
Thats usually the case with small to moderate sized tanks kane. There are only a few manufacturers that bother with grinding (seabray for one). But, it depends on what you ask for to be honest. You can get a basic 6x2x2 for around £199.00 or you can go that extra mile and pay £300+ for a nicely finnished one. Suffice to say, you need to talk to your tank builder before work commences to get it down in stone what it is your paying for. Chamfering isnt essential, but it does make an easyer build and give a more proffesional finish imo. but it can cost alot, some places are charging a fortune per metre for grinding/chamfering. so it can add up if you take into account a basic tank consisting of 10 panes (including braces) which is 40 grinding faces.
regards
Si.
simon garratt
21-07-06, 17:40
Sorry bristle basher i missed your post.:o
Yes there will be a water change facility plumbed in under the tank at one end consisting of a 50 gall tank thats works on a simple flow through principle from the sump assembly but can be shut off, run to waste, refilled from the RO unit via a secondary float valve, salted and brought up to temp, and then simply turned back on. without interefering with the rest of the system.
regards
Si.
PS. i have two walls tiled now and im just waiting for the electrician to come tommorow to switch over the consumer units. Ill bang some more piccies up next week.
Not true. It actually increases the surface area for bonding on the end edge of the pane, while also giving the joint a 'back fill' of silicone on either side. As used by Messrs Deltec, Juwel & AquaMedic for a stronger joint.
yes but it depends on what angle the chamffer is done if its to aggressive it weakens the joint at the most pressured point and the glass can flex to much to allow small leaks, but its still held just moves
come on si, where are the new pictures then ;)
simon garratt
02-08-06, 11:05
well, a bit more progress.
Most of the room has now been tiled (just one wall left)
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/fishroom tile.jpg
New consumer unit in (many thanks to Rob at NTL for this one).
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/consumer unit.jpg
House runs on one side of the unit, tank runs on the other with four seperately tripped rings.
Wall sockets are in, (each one on its own trip) to run the various aspects of the system. Each socket will run to its own 6 way plug bar or IKS bar on a seperate board, so i can keep lighting circuits seperate from pump circuits etc. I also decided it would be a good idea to run a bead of silicone round the sockets to prevent any condensation or splashes being able to run into the back of the sockets.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/wall sockets.jpg
Off down to Cornwall working for the next few days, but on my return I'll be having a bit of a clear up ready for the final wall to be tiled, then its time for the new floor and stand to be sorted.
I'll bang a pic up of the room once its cleard to get a better veiw.
regards
Si.
Nice job mate! did you do it?
I like your tiling theme! thats good enough for a bathroom!
I love reading supertank builds :D The display side looks like it will be amazing
Looking forward to seeing it in it full glory
simon garratt
04-08-06, 19:55
Hi tristan. yep. all done by my fair hand. Lets just say i like to get my hands dirty... I'm never afraid to give something a go, that way i save some money, If i cock it up, ive only myself to blame, and if i just cant do it, then I'll call in a proffesional (large area plastering is still beating me:mad: ), but hey, life isnt any fun if you cant be botherd to learn a few new skills.:)
Hopefully i should have the final wall tiled this weekend and its onto leveling the floor....:D
Regards
Si.
Looking good Si keep up the good work M8 :) fancy laying some tiles in my kitchen ;)
simon garratt
04-08-06, 22:09
fancy laying some tiles in my kitchen
Are you looking for a slap? :D If i never see another one again i'll be extatic.:p
Strange thing is, I actually prefer the grouting to the tiling...which i understand is a bit rare.;)
ok then Si sounds good to me so i'll tile and you'll grout:cool: :D
Kevin Douglas
05-08-06, 08:47
Strange thing is, I actually prefer the grouting to the tiling...which i understand is a bit rare.;)
Strange !! Very Strange !!!! :p
Regards
simon garratt
08-08-06, 17:23
Nothing special but i thought it relevent for continuity reasons..
Just dismantled the old RO unit and moved it all onto a backboard that'll be mounted to one of the tank support legs. DI pod is absent as it will be located elswhere so i can reach it easy for changing.
Twin membrane 2x100gpd units with 5 micron 1st stage, 1 micron second stage, GAC filter third, Carbon block fourth, then the membranes, then the DI (the muckyest filter you can see on the left is the 5 micron filter (both these will be changed prior to filling the tank as they are about 1 yr old now)
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/RO unit 1.jpg
More to follow soon folks.
regards
Si.:)
Hey Si, you're supposed to connect the 5u filter to the mains input not your sewage drain :D
Kevin Douglas
08-08-06, 19:26
Yea. It does look a bit dirty.
Regards
simon garratt
08-08-06, 19:36
mm. tis a bit mucky isnt it. luckily ive got the spare ones ready and waiting....uuuuugh:cool:
regards
Si.
Edit: cleaned up thread
bristlebasher
11-08-06, 14:17
Sorry bristle basher i missed your post.:o
Yes there will be a water change facility plumbed in under the tank at one end consisting of a 50 gall tank thats works on a simple flow through principle from the sump assembly but can be shut off, run to waste, refilled from the RO unit via a secondary float valve, salted and brought up to temp, and then simply turned back on. without interefering with the rest of the system.
regards
Si.
Not a problem for forgetting me :p - - thanx for the reply - is there a bypass for when the waterchange tank is isolated - or does only part of the flow go through it?
Cheers
BB:D
simon garratt
11-08-06, 14:22
only a small portion of flow will go through it to be honest (about 2000lph) teed off from the second to last sump compartment overflow, and flowing through the water change tank and back to the last compartment. Just a way of increasing overal water volume a tad, and incorprating a water change tank into the system as well. there wont be anything in there and it will be kept unlit.
regards
Si.
Prometheus
20-08-06, 01:03
where is the updates then :D nneeeedddd pics
simon garratt
29-08-06, 13:32
Well, the room is finished, tiled, new ceiling, (i must have the only 'coved' fish room in the south :D ) leveled the floor and put laminate in (all the edges/joints have been sealed) have just started building the tank supports now.
Bit of a bitch really as i can only go up three courses, then have to break away to fit all the skirting. Otherwise ill never get into do it later after the supports are at full hight.
Heres some updated pics.
The veiw from the sofa should suffice once its all up and running. (dining room was plasterd yesterday........(we are supposed to be entertaining in there This Friday....eeeek :eek: )
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/dining room veiw.jpg
Consumer unit is all boxed in now.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Consumer unit finished.jpg
Lhside support column going in.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/lh support.jpg
Sump tower is in place. the tanks are out back at present being drilled.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/sump in place.jpg
Thats it for the moment. Touch wood, i should have the supports finished and be putting the RSJ's in place early next week. with the tank base plates deliverd for drilling early the following week.
full steam ahead.:)
I love builds like this, keep telling myself one day, one day.
simon garratt
01-09-06, 15:10
posted tuesday....
The veiw from the sofa should suffice once its all up and running. (dining room was plasterd yesterday........(we are supposed to be entertaining in there This Friday....eeeek :eek: )
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/dining%20room%20veiw.jpg
Told you id get it done by Friday.;)
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/dining room veiw 2.jpg
At least now ive sorted downstairs out for she who must be obayed, I can now concentrate fully on the tank room again.
Anyway, im knackerd now after all that, so im gonna have a few beers and a nice meal in me new dining room tonight and pretend theres fish swimming past the hole.:D
regards
Si.
SPS Hoover
01-09-06, 15:11
What time you want us to turn up?:D
looking good.
got a question - the front edge of the tank is going to sit up flush with the dining room wall right?
as its only a plasterboard partition are you happy that a fair ammount of weight is going to be sitting on that edge?
if its not going to be sitting on the edge then id assume the front edge wont be supported in anyway. Is this going to be ok??
SPS Hoover
01-09-06, 15:22
No Si is not planning the tank sitting within hole it will sit flush with the far side of wall.
ahh ok, as you were then :D
Maybe you could do an open day / bbq (ask Scoob on pro's con's - for people who live close enough) and get guests to bring frags/gifts for new tank once set up?? I'm sure a few UReefers would love to have a nose/perv of your new set up?
could have a whip round for a new tv- unless you are keeping it retro :-)
not seen a tube like that for years.
the development is looking good, and am sure people would like to see it in the flesh.
simon garratt
01-09-06, 16:05
:( alas Si this in an 'Emma's girlfriends' evening. Us blokes have been relegated to the xbox......;)
Muzzy, Si's right, the tank will sit flush with the 'back' edge of the opening so i have a 'sill' all round.
The tanks actually wider and taller than the hole by 2" all round so you wont see any edges/seals at all, and only the top half of the 2" intank SSB will be visible. more like a big oblong porthole effect, than a window frame.
regards
Si. . :)
simon garratt
01-09-06, 16:17
Tony, cant i just charge an entrance fee instead of the frags...:D
Seriously though, you know as allways that anybody is welcome anytime at my abode.,,,,,:D
Jules, If you knew how much this little lot is costing me you'd understand why the telly is at the end of the priority list.
Im still recovering from the 6.1 surround bill. :eek:
regards
Si.:)
SPS Hoover
01-09-06, 16:18
You got the green light for Sunday yet?
simon garratt
01-09-06, 16:21
I'll ask her tonight after ive plied her with wine...;) ;)
SPS Hoover
01-09-06, 16:32
Good thinking:eek:
not seen a tube like that for years.
ahhh...its a TV, i was about to post a thread in ID's ;)
Prometheus
02-09-06, 23:09
i will say this when your system is finished i would love to come and have a look :p this gonna be a sweet setup
simon garratt
03-09-06, 15:04
your more than welcome P,. and thanks for the complements.:D
regards
Si.
funkyparott
03-09-06, 17:32
Very impressive indeed. I bet you cannot wait to get the tank in there and start playing ! :D
FP
simon garratt
09-09-06, 13:13
Well. Been playing with Sketchup again. and heres what ive come up with as a rough aquascape plan.
Im planning on constructing this myself using the Portland cement and salt method. so Ill bang more pictures up as and when it progresses.
Obviously at the mo it looks a bit like a releif of the 'grand canyon' due to sketchups inability to draw random (freestyle) structures so everything is a tad blockish, but im sure you get the general drift, minus the holes/caves and more rounded worn structure that I'll hopefully end up with..the structures will be hollow to allow loads of hiding spaces for fish, and they will have the closed loop intakes hidden in there as well. The closed loop outlets will get coverd either by polyps etc, or Ill make some rock sheilds up instead.
The main aim was to create a realistically looking , current eroded and channeled structure that emphasizes the depth of the tank front to back, by creating various levels for the eye to look down and over, and allows loads of space for coral placement that looks natural rather than staged. Seeing as this is going to be an SPS dominated reef i also considerd it essential to leave as much upwards growth space as possible hence the structure is quite low with a few select pinnacles. This will form about 70% of the total rockwork, the rest will be added as uncured topping off plating rock and branch rock.
Above.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/aquascape above small.jpg
Front.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/aquascape front small.jpg
Angle veiw
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/aquascape angle small.jpg
The biggest issue was truthfully combining a sand bed with a Maldivian theme. seeing as all the sand is usually 'behind' the main reef crest after the rubble zones and in the lagoon. theres little to none at the front of these reefs due to the deep drop off and reef wall. so i opted in the end to pick an area that does combine both ie the far shallower ends where it trails off, curls inwards and levels out to meet the sands with various spurs and mico bommies jutting up with a varied assortment of corals and fish etc that are found on both sides of the main reef crest.
touch wood it will all go according to plan:D
...... yeh right..;)
regards
Si.
Great setup! Coming along nicely.
I notice in your pictures that you haven't any closed loop outlets at the rear of the tank. Is this done on purpose or has it just been left out in the picture?
Dave
simon garratt
09-09-06, 13:39
Hi dave.
There will be very large holes in the back of the rock sections which will allow the water being thrown over the top and down the back to be sucked back into the closed loop intakes again. the predominant flow direction will be up and over towards the back rather than horizontaly although there is some genertaed from the side outlets.. this also ties in with the fact that i have a full length weir across the back so any waste drawn into the closed loops, is thrown back out at the front, upwards and towards the weir at the back again..with 30,000lph being sucked up through there i doubt much will stay there for long.
regards
Si.
SPS Hoover
09-09-06, 15:50
Obviously at the mo it looks a bit like a releif of the 'grand canyon'
Very appt for the toilet tank
Hi Simon,
Nice setup and will obviously be superb when finished.
However, the closed loop outlets at the bottom front are very conspicuous, particularly as they are so evenly spaced. If it was me :D then I'd be inclined to hide the one on the far right, and maybe even the one to its left as well, behind the little rock formation in front of each of them and ensure the other two aren't as evenly spaced.
It seems a real pity to be able to hide the closed loop inlets positioned on the sides of the tank, and then have four glaringly obvious and unnatural inlets right at the front - it would honestly drive me nuts!! :p
Looking forward to seeing it take shape though :cool: and nice work with Sketchup (although I think the diffraction through glass/water through the side of the tank needs a little work ;) ).
Regards
John
dan-the-man
09-09-06, 16:34
Looks an excellent project but I agree with John. If your going to do a tank right you dont want pipes sticking out of the front of the tank! Do it prolerly and hide them, its one of the main points of havin closed loops!
simon garratt
09-09-06, 18:46
The closed loop outlets will get coverd either by polyps etc, or Ill make some rock sheilds up
and as mentioned in an earlyer post.
The tanks actually wider and taller than the hole by 2" all round so you wont see any edges/seals at all, and only the top half of the 2" intank SSB will be visible. more like a big oblong porthole effect, than a window frame.
Your worrying about nothing guys,:D
Can you spot the 4 evenly spaced 40mm outlets on Si's tank below...?
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploads/DSC_2579.jpg
John. the ones on the sides of the tank are outlets, not inlets. The strainers are all hiiden underneith as allready mentioned.
Admitedly yes closed loops can be hidden but thats not the main purpose. Theres no point in sticking a 40mm outlet thats kicking 10,000lph out of it in the middle of your rockwork and then not be able to attatch corals to, or near it becouse they will get stripped by the flow. The aim is to desperse as much flow over as wider area as possible which means logically placing them at the outer reaches of the tank near the front or sides/ back where corners restrict flow. another reason for spacing them at the front of sand beds is becouse the draw of water thats dragged into the stream of the outflowing jet, pulls water up and and away from the sand bed keeping overal circulation more consitant at all levels within the aquarium both vertically and horizontaly aiding diffusion and overall 02 balance..
regards
Si.
Can you spot the 4 evenly spaced 40mm outlets on Si's tank below...?
Yes (but they are well disguised ;) ).
Phew, I can rest easy!
John
simon garratt
09-09-06, 19:40
:D
yep, to be fair, alot of people worry about this when they see drawings or a freshly built tank that hasnt developed a bio covering on all the outlets. but after doing a few tanks now with this method they do cover up surprisingly quickly. and you can even attatch frags of encrusting corals to them making them look like solid lumps of coral within a relatively short space of time.
Im sure Si would be willing to pop a shot up of his polyp coverd outlet if we all ask him nicely.:D
After having a natter with Si earlyer today, i might actually shift the top two side outlets to the back sides instead as an extra option but leave the origional front holes blanked in case the coverage and proximity of corals at the back starts to cause problems later and i want to switch back..
regards
Si.
.
nice to see a build taking the aquscape seriously....looks good!
Im sure Si would be willing to pop a shot up of his polyp coverd outlet
Hmmm, a visit to the STD clinic might be more appropriate :eek: :eek:
with the fact that i have a full length weir across the back so any waste drawn into the closed loops, is thrown back out at the front, upwards and towards the weir at the back again..with 30,000lph being sucked up through there i doubt much will stay there for long.
Si, Great design. I look forward to seeing this develop
Going back to the above quote from the page before. What do you have planned for the back glass panel? Will the weir run the full length of the back glass? Have you found a way to have the back panel painted?
I know you were very keen on having the glass coralline free on your last tank. Willl you be doing the same on this tank?
simon garratt
11-09-06, 12:49
Hi Keith, yep im a bit of a fanatic on the clean back glass thing i know.. this one will be the same to be honest.
as for painting it, im still undecided on how im going to get a graduated two tone effect (black at the bottom to blue at the top) at this time.
The weir will be a full length triangle weir right across the back with two or maybe three 50mm outlets which then run along a pipe to drop into the tower sump next to the tank.
regards
Si.
i am going to use acrylic sheets airbushed from black to blue and then just siliconed against the galss to keep out salt creep.
i have a central weir covered by a rock wall so my sheet will be black at the bottom and the middle (behind the rock) allowing me to use black acrylic on the weir glass - it will then fade to blue in the corners - hopefully creating an impression of blue depth beyond the central "island".
air brush on plastic seems the easiest way to do this and hoping for a cheapish quote from the guy that did my helmet paint job!
as for painting it, im still undecided on how im going to get a graduated two tone effect (black at the bottom to blue at the top) at this time.
What about using a translucent thin blue acrylic sheet on the outside of the glass back-lit by a fluorescent tube to give a graded shade from pale blue to dark blue?
Have it removable so you can see what you are doing for tank maintenance and glass cleaning.
Tony
edit: You beat me to it Tiggsy !
simon garratt
11-09-06, 13:05
mmmmm. I like that idea Tiggsy. I may fashion it in a way that it 'hangs' over the back lip stopping salt creep and splashes but enables me to remove it to get a veiw from the back.......
youve got me thinking now guys...:D
si, i had done this on my tank before i put my stud wall up behind the tank
but its a real bugger to cut the stuff without it cracking and chipping.
melting the top edge and bending it over is easy enough with a heat gun.
b&q wont cut acrylic sheets - i asked them, so try and get it the right size to start with if you can
simon garratt
11-09-06, 13:13
Cheers muzzy. luckily i have a routering tool that will cut acrylic so i dont have a problem with the manufacturing side of things. i can allways bond it to a single track (n shaped) plastic cover glass runner and use this to hang it. Thats if i can find one in 15mm thats 6.5ft long :D
regards
Si.
just realised you need to take it of for access- so salt creep doesnt matter really does it - just wipe clean.
i am going to cut it myself - easy with a jigsaw and just hand it over for painting to a hairy tattoed biker painting Hells Angel and ask for it back when it looks pretty!
simon garratt
11-09-06, 13:21
Thats all ok till it comes back with a bloody great HA logo plasterd across the middle of it.;)
you try refusing it and asking for a refund..:D
i'll tug his beard till he cries.
Johnymajors
11-09-06, 13:44
Si
For the gradient you could always buy some window tint. They do one for trucks that is totaly black at the top a fades through to clear at the bottom. Just turn it upside down and stick it to the acrylic and the jobs a goodun :D
be carefull when you order windscreen stickers - you dont want one with WAYNE TRACEY on it!
simon garratt
11-09-06, 16:09
(dragged over for relevance from the DIY LR thread.)
1st attempt.....:) thought Id have a go at making one of my little rock islands that will jut out of the sand bed infront of the main rockwork (the one shown in the pics front RHS) . this bit is about 14" long by 10" wide, x 8" high built over a framework of plantpots and stone chunks to leave a hollowed out center.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/aragrock%201.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/aragrock%202.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/aragrock%203.jpg
used a mix of 2 snowcrete, 1 aragamax, 4 salt.
As per details on the other thread.
Mixed snowcrete and sand (white Portland cement) with just enough water to make a very sticky plyable mix, then added granulated salt crystels (available from B&Q for water softeners)..leave coverd to set for 48 hrs before moving then soak in fresh RO water to let the salt crystals disolve away to leave the porosity behind. and then soak for a further 6 odd weeks in RO to stabalise the lime content and let pH become static.
As soon as ive rinsed it off and let it soak, Ill bang up some more pics of the holes that should have formed.
If it all goes according to plan, ill then move onto the main rock structures after having a play at creating some branch rock tonight....
regards
Si.:)
Looks good mate! that white bit has just the same affest as lr covered with corraline!
chriskirby101
11-09-06, 17:33
Fantastic looking system..
Just one point to make, noticed on your RO setup you T off from the Carbon housing to feed both Ro membranes seperatly, then you have two waste feeds..
I used to do this myself but after having a long chat with Mr Ro-Man himself i discovered that if you feed the second Ro membrane with the waste from the first Ro membrane with will get a Product water to Waste water ratio close to 1:1.
This is very good news if your on a water meter. Of course the second membrane's workign life with be slightly reduced but the cost of the water saving by far pays for it.
In fact at the shop we get more product water than waste at a TDS of 001ppm..
Chris Kirby
simon garratt
11-09-06, 18:53
To be honest chris im not on a meter so i was more interested in total output than anything else.
plus i didnt see the point in pushing even more concentrated waste into the second membrane as this would then need changing sooner than the first. doing it this way means i simply change both membranes at the same time.
Dont know ether RO Man mentioned but did he make any comment about backpressuring the first restrictor ? i wouldnt have thought that this would do it any good to be honest. ?
regards
Si.
chriskirby101
11-09-06, 18:59
Yeah i supect the lifespan of the membranes will be reduced but when your producing 100+ gallons per day every day and being on a meter it adds up lol...
Chris
Reef bloke
11-09-06, 21:17
That rock looks good mate,tate modern material indeed.;)
simon garratt
12-09-06, 08:39
Made some branch rock last night.
1st attempt made with a stronger mix of 1/1/1 (cement/aragamax/salt).
this peice is about 2 1/2 ft long. and im planning on making a load more to create an intricate branching rubble zone in one area of the tank as well as a few select pieces that will stick out from the rockwork as old dead branches for attatching various outher corals.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/aragbranch 1.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/aragbranch 2.jpg
regards
Si.
crazi fish
12-09-06, 09:21
Hi Si,
have you thought about trying a back lit effect (as described in reef aquarium vol 3) - blue perspex against the back of the tank, a gap then a sheet of white perspex to diffuse the light, then a light source behind. if you lit the top more you should get a graduated effect without having to risk painting it.
simon garratt
12-09-06, 09:36
Yes i do like that method, really effective. unfortunately though i just havent got the space to be honest. the tank fills half the room its in and i have a 4ft area behind the tank to work in. Any further and ill have to go in via the roof...:D I do like it though. Im gonna have a play with a few painted effects and see what works.
regards
Si.:)
Wow this is so impressive, its just like a bible!!! Well done Simon, keep on truckin' :)
Simon,
When are you going to put your guides onto reefeden.com?
Great looking rock BTW. The 1st stuff is very lumpy, just like some of my real stuff.
simon garratt
30-09-06, 12:40
Hi Greg.
The site is moving to the new address (in my link) of www.Reef-Eden.net (http://www.Reef-Eden.net) and the old .com address will be bound to it within the next week or two.
Its all imminent to be honest, I'm just finalising a few new pages. I'm hoping it will all be back up within the next couple of weeks. ( a little later than planned) but times been short to be honest. The new lighting section has taken about a week to write and thats just one small bit of the upgrade.
regards
Si.
Oh go on, put it up now - now one will complain if its not perfect.....
Something is better than nothing.
Greg
craighuckins
30-09-06, 20:11
[quote=muzzy]but its a real bugger to cut the stuff without it cracking and chipping.
Not true! Stick a line of masking tape over the part where you intend to cut it, then make sure you have the correct blade - small teeth with very little pitch, and don't run it too fast! If you can use a bandsaw this is even better. Trust me - I'm a DT teacher!:D
simon garratt
11-10-06, 20:07
Well, a bit more progress has been made in between a heavy work schedule.
A few weeks ago I was at this stage.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/lh support.jpg
Since then, ive managed to complete both the support columns. Then it was time to fit a concrete top lintel across the top of the blockwork. although id managed to make a pretty good job of getting the blockwork level. It was handy having a one piece block right across the top as this would disperse the load more evenly, and made it alot easyer to get everything as level as humanly possible ready for the 3 RSJ support beams.
Heres a picture of the lintel end. (i decided to fill along the edges with cement as a bit of extra support).
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/lintel.jpg
And Heres a picture of the support column, Lintle, and RSJ in place. (at this stage the RSJ's are simply in position. (They will eventually be bedded down into silicone)
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/Supportbeamrsj.jpg
Heres a pic of the underside. showing the 3 RSJs resting ontop of the lintel.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/underside beams.jpg
Plaster the Support columns and fix down the RSJ's with Silicone as a cushion.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/RSJ supports.JPG
After that it was time to lay on the base board (note its allready marked out for the closed loop holes to miss the beams)., and then check it all out for level.... both side to side, diagonally and front to back.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/base board.jpg
And this was the end result...(ps: its me thats on the p**s, not the level)
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/spirit level.jpg
Next its time to get the support columns plasterd, finish that goddamn skirting, and i can finnaly start building the soddin tank.
More soon.
Regards
Si.
dan-the-man
11-10-06, 20:15
Going to be one hell of a system Si. Hows the rock going?
keith hellyar
11-10-06, 20:41
Simon
Its looking excellent. One thought (and I'm sure you've considered it), those holes look quite close to the tank edge. Will you be able to get a glass cleaner behind the outlets when its all up and running. I'm assuming the edge of the baseboard (The wavy bit) is to be cut off.
Keith
EnglishReefer
11-10-06, 21:12
Looks like the wavy edge is where the tank sits over the lintels.
Coming on well Si.
wavy bits has a lump of RSJ under it !
Looks good Si.
I can see that you are following your own rule of 1.5 times diameter clearance between the hole in the glass and the edge of the glass. As I am in a similar planning stage, how much clearance are you allowing between the hole (for 50mm pipe?) and the support RSJ for the isolating ball valves?
keith hellyar
12-10-06, 08:21
wavy bits has a lump of RSJ under it !
Yep
I can see that now:p
Keith
simon garratt
12-10-06, 09:18
Thanks for the compliments guys.
Hi Tony.
The circles you see are larger diameter holes in the base board to allow me to get a hand in underneith to tighten up the lock nuts on the bulkhead fittings. (the back ones will only be 62mm in diameter in the actual tank base) which leaves about 100mm between the edge of the actual hole in the glass and the edge of the base plate. The front 4 are 55mm holes for 40mm bulkheads. All the shut off taps will be on the 'verticle' runs down to the pumps all grouped together (you'll see this later as i do the plumbing)
Marking off the 'no go' areas at the start, is an old trick thats stuck with me from my engineering days. It really payes off, and stops you making monumental F, ups later on..;)
Now all i gotta do is figure out how the hell im gonna fit this little lot under there with 4 sequence pumps (i added a another to the plans :o )....and a water change tank......
:D
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/reactors.jpg
And ive tried out one of the new 10K blv 400s in the new reflectors hung from a sliding cable support thats drilled and hooked to the ceiling....
Very bright indeed. :D
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/reflector rhs.jpg
more to follow soon peeps. :)
simon garratt
12-10-06, 09:28
Sorry Dan, missed your post.
Im starting on the main rock formations next week or so hopefully (im actually thinking of using the tank base panel pre plumbed (when fitted) as the template to build the structures strait onto. that way i can be 100% sure that everything fits nicely with enough clearence around and underneith to allow for the closed loop intakes. Sort of like building the rockwork 'in the tank' but without the side pannels attatched. hopefully doing it this way, it will all look in proportion and i can tweak as i go.. obviously after that it will all have to come out again for soaking for 6 weeks while i put the sides etc on, finish the plumbing, and wait for the whole lot to go off properly.
regards
Si.
good idea, thats what i did sort of - i made a full size model in ply wood/mdf of my cube complete with weir and loop exits/intakes - then built my fake rock on it.
when ready to use it will fit perfectly round the weir and over the loop holes maximising space and hiding anything i want hidden.
SPS Hoover
12-10-06, 09:48
Hurry up and stop waffling.......................................... ....................... get some glass I have my silicon gun ready to go!!!!!
PS remember not to over tighten your tank connectors:eek: :p
simon garratt
12-10-06, 09:52
PS remember not to over tighten your tank connectors
Im not that STUPID..!!!!!!!
;) ;) ;)
instantsquid
12-10-06, 10:06
What reflectors are you using Si?
- Ian
Looks good ;) , nice thread....cant wait to see more pics :)
simon garratt
12-10-06, 10:10
The mini diamonds, (similar to the ones from www.Marine-Lighting.co.uk (http://www.Marine-Lighting.co.uk) but not as highly polished and with dimples). I couldnt fit the big Luminarcs over the tank to be honest becouse of space restrictions, but these give a really nice beam anyway, not too focused, but just enough spread to fill out the dimentions of the tank at (what will finaly be) 14" from the water surface.
regards
Si.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/reactors.jpg
What kind of reactor is that one on the right with the 2 white pipes?
simon garratt
12-10-06, 10:41
Ahhhh, i wonderd when someone was gonna ask that one...:D , now thats my own twin pump DIY high flow Ca reactor. 2400lph recirculating turnover, using two maxijet pumps and corse Schuran media. if i dare say so myself, it can chuck out a hell of a lot of Ca and run systems alot larger than any single pump equivalants ive seen. It used to run my old 200gall system on tickover.
Ill be making a slightly bigger better model (this one was cobbled together)at a later stage as i was so pleased with the way it performed, and the plans will be up on R-E at a later date.
regards
Si.
simon garratt
12-10-06, 10:51
Heres a diagram of it that i did in the planning stages.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/Calcium Reactor.JPG
I wont bother going into any detail as there are subtle changes Ill be making to the new model. but you get the jist from the image.
regards
Si.
keith hellyar
12-10-06, 10:52
I can vouch for Simons DIY Calcium Reactor. I copied it:D
Keith
Looks quite good. Might make one for a laugh.
Simon mate.....
You defo know your ****.....I am well impressed....
Peter
simon garratt
12-10-06, 15:51
Dunno about that Peter ;) I just take everybody elses mistakes, add a bit of further research chuck all that info back together in a logical fashion and hey presto.. another complete and utter balls up.....I just hide it better than most...:D
regards
Si.
Good afternoon all,
Just a question:
What skimmer is that in the piccie??
Also, how does it work (good bad).
regards
Jay.
:)
simon garratt
12-10-06, 16:19
What skimmer is that in the piccie??
Hi Jay, its an AP702
Also, how does it work (good bad).
Its a Deltec. ;) , need i say more.
Specs here: http://www.deltecaquariumsolutions.com/skimmers_7.php
regards
Si.
Sye Davies
14-10-06, 09:15
lmao:D
i do admire your modesty si.
simon garratt
14-10-06, 09:33
Modesty is for people who lack assertion and self worth...........:D
oh, did i say that out loud.....woops....;)
Regards
Si.:)
Kevin Douglas
14-10-06, 10:30
Hi Simon
Great job matey.
Looking forward to seeing this tank up and running.
I know its going to be good.
You might want to consider putting your tank connectors with the nuts inside the tank. It makes it a lot easier if you have to strip down in the future.:p You dont have to saw all the pipe work off and break your nails in the proccess (Ask Si C):o
Atb
simon garratt
14-10-06, 10:52
Cheers for the compliments Kev. especially considering your considerable experience with bigger tanks...(wheres the bow down emoticon when you need it) :D
and break your nails in the proccess
Bless, bet it cost him a fortune the following week for a manicure...;)
Duely noted on the connectors. To be honest i was considering cutting the exess thread off after the nut, in order to get the 45deg outlets down as low as possible anyway (as long as there is still enough space to get an insert into them.).
Regards
Si.:)
Kevin Douglas
14-10-06, 11:34
Duely noted on the connectors. To be honest i was considering cutting the exess thread off after the nut, in order to get the 45deg outlets down as low as possible anyway (as long as there is still enough space to get an insert into them.).
Regards
Si.:)
I have an idea about that. I will speak to you at STM.
Regards
simon garratt
14-10-06, 11:39
Ok Kev, Ill look forward to that...:)
regards.
Si.
The circles you see are larger diameter holes in the base board to allow me to get a hand in underneith to tighten up the lock nuts on the bulkhead fittings.
Thanks for the info Si. What diameter do you allow in the base board for your hand (for 50mm & for 40mm bulkhead fittings) ?
Snorkel and Flippers:D
Keith
Snorkel and ( FINS) Flipper is a dolphin :D
SPS Hoover
17-10-06, 22:53
break your nails in the proccess (Ask Si C)
Loose your nail Kev not break its no more its gone to finger nail heaven and it ******* hurt
keith hellyar
17-10-06, 22:54
Snorkel and ( FINS) Flipper is a dolphin :D
Flippers in my book
Keith
Snorkel and ( FINS) Flipper is a dolphin :D
Flippers in my book
Quote Wikipedia:
"Swimfins are also known as flippers outside of North America"
Americans taking over plain English again!
This is going to be awesome :D
Any more updates?
simon garratt
30-10-06, 02:20
Hi Chris, not yet, apart from the fact ive just plasterd the support pillars.
I'm having a bit of a busy period at work for some strange reason and its getting in the way of tank time.
Still,..... The DSB compartment of the sump has been up and running for about 4 weeks now and is comming along in leaps and bounds so i may whack up some pics of that in the mean time.
Regards
Si.
Hi Chris, not yet, apart from the fact ive just plasterd the support pillars.
I'm having a bit of a busy period at work for some strange reason and its getting in the way of tank time.
Still,..... The DSB compartment of the sump has been up and running for about 4 weeks now and is comming along in leaps and bounds so i may whack up some pics of that in the mean time.
Regards
Si.
Don't you just hate it when that happens? Work is such a PITA.
Looking forward to it progressing.
Deanobeano
30-10-06, 10:59
si
are you going to mod the 702?
if so how? drilling it for another pump? or changing the 2 pumps?
how will this effect the skimmer out take?
deano
simon garratt
30-10-06, 11:05
Hi Deano.
Not sure yet, i may just drill the side and make some flanges up to mount the third pump just like the existing two.
Its very much an 'Idea' at the mo. I am going to do it deffinately, but im not going to stand here and say it 'will' work or be better than Mr Saxby's existing afforts. but hey, thats what dabbling is all about.
regards
Si.
Deanobeano
30-10-06, 12:41
when you do drill it can you post some pics and that please, be instersting to see how its done seeing as the chamber is arched and the drill bit flat.
and be insterting to see the effect of a thrid pump on the 702.
totally agree with the dabbling but expenvise dabble to take on a 702 if it cracked.
just i'm after a 851 but trouble with me is i what a bigger system all the time and i'f i think ahead maybe get the 702 and then do the same as you if it pays off if not still got a beast of a skimmer with the 702, but suppose in theory could do that with the 851 aswell.
another question noticed you mentioned about your other tank and that you were going to run it hooked up to the sump tower and main tank? for seahorse.
would you be hoping this is a self effeicent tank? or would you still feed the seahorse?
deano
Any progress Si ?
rgds,
Anthony
simon garratt
11-11-06, 01:29
Ahhaa, now that would be telling....:p
shhhhh dont tell anybody..... the base panels are due for delivery on Moday.,,,, and ive just recieved my 65mm glass drill from Hong Kong....£7.95...:D :D :D
More pics over the weekend and next week...
Promise..:)
:D Ahhaa, now that would be telling....:p
shhhhh dont tell anybody..... the base panels are due for delivery on Moday.,,,, and ive just recieved my 65mm glass drill from Hong Kong....£7.95...:D :D :D
More pics over the weekend and next week...
Promise..:)
I look forward to the updates:D
rgds,
Anthony
simon garratt
15-11-06, 09:15
Well, its been a busy few weeks and yet again working away had hinderd things (not too badly though)
Suffice to say heres the progress.
After the base board was layed over the RSJ's with the holes cut for the closed loops, it was time to get a 1" layer of polystyrene down and follow the holes through that as well.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/Base cushion 2.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/Outlet hole.jpg
Then, low and behold this monday i had the base panels deliverd. 12mm main base with a 10mm inner base.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/tankbase 1.JPG
Needless to say it didnt go without a hitch...
The main base panel was cut off square, (5mm too narrow at one end.) this meant that although the sides and front panel would sit true in a 12.5mm shelf, The back panel would have started off at 12.5mm, and then trailed off to 7.5mm at one end..
Gutted.
So after contacting the glass company and expecting another 2week wait, i was chuffed to find out, that they will have a new base panel ready and deliverd this friday morning, and they will chop down the old base (thats square on 3 sides, to make the back panel and chuck it in free...(nice men that they are).
So undaunted. Ive started drilling the 55mm holes for the 40mm closed loop returns, and the 65mm holes for the closed loop outlets in the inner base for now so that i can use them as a guide once the inner base is siliconed down to the new Base panel when it arrives on Friday.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/hole cutting 1.jpg
(dont worry, there was a gap between the two panes and a big piece of card whilst i was drilling through, so the base panel wasnt marked...:D )
More progress soon.
regards
Si.
simon garratt
15-11-06, 09:34
Ok, looking at something else now....Ive allways (if possible) preferd to pre arm a filtration system prior to the main tank being brought on line, with the main aim that it stabalises the tank alot quicker than if the whole system was started from scratch in one go. Especially on this system seeing as im planning on seeding it with a small portion of 'uncured' LR from the start.
So with this in mind, the DSB section of the tower sump was set up a couple of months ago as follows.
First job, fill with water salt and get up to correct slainity temp.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/DSB1.jpg
Then add the first base layer of superfine Seachem aragonite sand (this stuff is almost like silt) about 2"
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/DSB4.jpg
Then add about 3" of Aragamax superfine (this is without the bits)
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/DSB5.jpg
Then top that off with about 1-2" of Aragamax grand bahama (the stuff with the bits in it)
Let the whole lot run for a couple of days with a powerfilter to clear completely, Retest the water to see whats happened to Alk and Mg (in this case i had to boost alk and MG up a tad)
Then it was time to transfer everything from my Nano to seed the DSB, this included the sand from the main display area, and the top 1" from the rear DSB compartment, and all the rock etc.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/DSB8.jpg
Obviously the rock is only a temporary measure as i dont want it compacting the sand bed down too much which is why i keep moving it around. I also added a monster load of bristleworms from SPSHoovers Refugium.
so, two months on, with a dose of high protien pellet and some frozen mussel every other day and this is what you get.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/DSB9.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/DSB10.jpg
Readings are.
PO4 0.03ppm
No3 0.01ppm
N02 0
Amm 0
Thats all for now.:D
Regards
Si.
Valley Boy
15-11-06, 09:36
Tideeee!---------------;)
dan-the-man
15-11-06, 09:42
Well finally an update! :p
Looks cracking Si, well done, look forward to pics of the tank being built!
Nice one mate, just in time for me to do my dsb refugium!
Prometheus
15-11-06, 10:09
sweet :D keep the pics comming dude :rolleyes: .
Looking great
simon garratt
16-11-06, 03:00
Thanks for the compliments guys...Its getting there...slooooowly...Im really hoping to have the front and side panes in by first week of December and to have made a start on the main DIY rock formations over the closed loop feeds at the back of the tank...
Heres hoping...:D
regards
Si.
Reefer Madness
16-11-06, 16:33
Just read the thread, you just know it's going to be good.
simon garratt
18-11-06, 16:02
Well, the boys at Greenburge came good to thier word.
New main base deliverd Friday. so this morning ive spent a bit of time bonding the two together and chasing the holes right through.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/Finished tank base.JPG
They were quite good in the fact that they gave me about 1mm extra leeway with the new pane so i have a really good lip to rest the sides on now. .5mm overlap allround.
And here she is from the other side.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/tank base veiw.JPG
Just got to wait till the end of the month now to get a shed load of plumbing in and the side panels.
In the meantime Ill probably start work on the main rock structures..
Regards
Si.
when bonding the two panes, where exactly did you put the top one to get the juice in there? how easy was it to move it around given the limited access.
220 posts, 23 pages later and we finally start to see the tank being put together :rolleyes: :D .
looking good Si might get the tank built by christmas :D
jase
blazesnake
19-11-06, 11:50
thats got to be one of the biggests projects ive ever seen!
Well done, cant wait to see it finished
SPS Hoover
19-11-06, 12:19
looking good Si might get the tank built by christmas :D
Don't hold your breath
Si what happened about our discussion on allowing air in between pains to let silicon go off better they look totally sealed. Next time it be would better for me to come around and supervise
What you drill them holes with a kango:eek: :D
Si, Is it coz u are working on your pale complection that its takin too long :eek:
Joking aside, I can't wait to see the new tank etc. Looks well planned etc - a real credit so far !
Jay
:)
PS When do you invisage the reef being completed?
simon garratt
19-11-06, 16:02
Scoob.
when bonding the two panes, where exactly did you put the top one to get the juice in there? how easy was it to move it around given the limited access.
Look at this shot and you'll see the impact foam spacers they supply with the panels to protect them.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/tankbase%201.JPG
basically. placed 3 of these over lapping the front edge of the inner pane after moving it into the correct position (with an even mainbase overlap all round). Then just lifted it up on the rear edge so the front was resting on these three pads (they are about 3mm thick x 1" square) pulled off the rest, propped the back edge of the pane up using a piece of wood as a brace, then commenced with the silicone gun. laid down all the beads and then slowly lowered the inner pane back down onto the silicone.
Once down, i pull out the pads, give the panel a gentle shove if it has moved a bit (easy as the silicone acts like a lube) and then gently get on top and move around to squeeze out the air and let the panels come together as the silicone spreads out.
Si..... Si what happened about our discussion on allowing air in between pains to let silicon go better they look totally sealed
Not at all Si, there are various small gaps in the silicone to let the air /fumes out. Each run of silicone has at least 1 small gap to let fumes in and out of the area, and the bulkhead holes all have double rings to prevent seepage through between the panes. (i gave it a good jumping on this morning and theres no sign of any silicone still fluid... Its all gone off lovely)
Blazesnake:
thats got to be one of the biggest projects Ive ever seen!
Well done, cant wait to see it finished
Well its certainly not the biggest (pales into insignificance against the likes of Kevin Douglas's 12fter, etc), but id like to think its well thought-out and considered. Thanks for the compliments though...Much appreciated.
Well todays been fun.
Decided id make a start with 1 of the two main rock structures. (RHS)
So with lots of sheet plastic, a roll of chicken wire and a pair of snips i started mapping out and building the moulds for the LR structures.
First job was to copy from my original Sketchup plan, onto the tank base to act as a guide.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/LR Plan.JPG
Next I set to work with sheet of plastic to protect the base panel (this also stops the LR / concrete mix sticking) a stack of bricks to use as spacers (this ensured i have loads of space underneath the moulds for the closed loop strainers.. and for the fish to hide out etc). I lay over a sheet of chicken wire , moulded it into the shape i wanted and then trimmed off the edge all round. Coved this with a second sheet of plastic, and hey presto your ready for work.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/LR Mould RHS2.JPG
After mixing up the Cement/sand/salt mix (already covered elsewhere on this thread), I started throwing it over the mold. (at this point the misses grabbed the camera and started snapping away with comments like ' looks like my porridge'...mmmmm, 'personally i thought it more like her mothers gravy but hey ho'...;)...
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/Building LR.JPG
Well, after 2 buckets of mix, allot of creative mud chucking, I was quite pleased with the end result..
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/LR RHS4.JPG
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/LR RHS3.JPG
This isn't actually 1 piece. its 3 with joins between them using a thin layer of plastic to act as a divider. Once set, the plastic will be removed making a virtually invisible join between the sections...,
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/LR split.JPG
When i get 5 min, Ill bang up some more shots of the rear of these structures showing the completely open back, and what they look like inside.
Thats it for the mo folks..
Si.
Excellent work Si - looks very good so far!
John
Are you adding any live rock to seed the tank or going totally manmade?
I really like the idea of manmade it's cheap and you dont get so many unwanted critters like crabs, what's your reason for doing it this way, sorry if you've said before
Methinks a visit is called for 'ere.
Gotta few points need clearing up my end anyway re: my tank.
BTW I hope you havent been putting any of that PVA, on the windowsill behind you, in that D.I.Y rock mix :eek:
I'm loving and hating this thread as I read it....all that goes through my mind as I go from page to page is....nice, nice I like that...
Wish I had one like that....and so the hatred (maybe envy) begins.
Have you got a plan of exactly what media etc will be in the sump tower, I'm loving that and would love to try and create a much smaller set up for my new tank...
is this documented etc what you will use and the throey of why...
All you need is a few fold away palm trees and a swimming pool and you'll have your very own Tracey island
simon garratt
19-11-06, 20:51
Matty, your more than welcome at any time you know that.
Thanks for the compliments again guys.
Was having a discussion with Si.C and weve agreed that i might as well build the entire rock structure, put the sides/front.back and braces on, then plumb it all up and cure the fake LR in situe for the 6 weeks it needs on a permanant flush rather than pulling it all out and flushing it seperately..
Dunno yet but it sounds feasible. at that rate id have the tank ready and primed for stocking at the end of Jan/beginning of Feb when i come back from the Maldives... about 10-12 weeks in all...
Regards
Si.:)
Twistedpro
19-11-06, 21:07
Looking very nice indeed si, glad greenburg sorted the glass for you. The rock structure looks good plenty of room to let all the SPS to grow out
simon garratt
19-11-06, 21:11
The pictures dont do it justice to be honest Peter. I'll take some more from differing angles later as its 'ALOT' bigger than it looks and a lot wider front to back..
When coverd in black plastic (to slow the hardening rate), it looks like a dead body...
My neighbours must be a bit concerned..:D :D
Si.
Twistedpro
19-11-06, 21:12
ha ha ha, its very difficult to judge true size from pictures. Will be much easier with a few fish swimming around in a couple of months time
Looking good mate!
Im looking forward to seeing it running!
When you say perminant fush will you just have your ro unit running for 6 weeks straight?
To be ready end of january you have allot of work to do!!:)
builds looking great can't wait for the new reef eden web site last onw was great
Heres a diagram of it that i did in the planning stages.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/Calcium Reactor.JPG
I wont bother going into any detail as there are subtle changes Ill be making to the new model. but you get the jist from the image.
regards
Si.
have you progrested with your high flow Ca reactor yet
This is going to magnificent, which is no less than we would expect from you Si!
Loving this thread, I'm almost living it with you. Can't wait to see it up and running. You'll be very tempted to fill your hand luggage with salt water on the way back from the Maldives with that sort of timing!
simon garratt
20-11-06, 12:15
Hi Doug.
Not as yet. Im planning on working on the reactor in Feb/March once the tanks up and running (i have my old one to tide things over in the mean time). As for the site, yes yes i know its well behind :o , but its getting there. Reformatting god knows how many pages and re-wording text to 'past tence' for the old system to avoid confusion, as well as doing the full writeups on the new one is taking some considerable effort and man hours, not to mention finalising all the new Hints and Tips pages....But, suffice to say, its nearly all there and upload is impending...;)
Phil....I wouldnt dream of bringing anything back....I'll have too much fun with the camara and trying to look for rare species ideas for the tank for that....:D :D
simon garratt
20-11-06, 12:19
Tristan, When i say permanant flush, i mean the tank will be fired up and running seperately from the sump, and the RO will be put on a timer to dump a load of fresh RO into the tank every few days to clear out the anti clogging agents and salt from the LR mix. Not exactly environmentally sound, I know, but i dont feel too guilty when compared to how much water Thames vally looses out of thier pipework on a daily basis.
Regards
Si.
Lol! yours will be a fraction of a fraction in comparison!
Hi Si
wasent meaning to hassle just really like the look of your reactor and fancy haveing a go for my new build next year.
and i was missing the old site as i refered to it quite a lot
your a credit to the hobby
all the best
Doug
simon garratt
21-11-06, 20:04
Well, the rockwork is just about finished.
This is a full head on shot (the structure on the left has just this munuit been built, and is still wet) the one on the right is fully hardned after 48 hours and the inside mould has been removed.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/Aquascape 1.JPG
Here's some more shots from different angles.
You can see in one of the shots the locations marked for the two small islands that ive allready built and are soaking out back.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/LR LHS.JPG
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/Rock face.JPG
And here is a bit of a gorge running diagonally towards the back of the tank between the two structures. (im hoping this should pull back some of the depth perspective when veiwing.)...
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/Reefgorge1.JPG
thats all for now. Ill bang up a couple more shots in a few days once all the rock has hardned and ive drained off the islands (still soaking) then you can see a full shot of the entire aquascape...and Ill do those shots from the back ive been promising that show how open the back is for fish to slip in and out of.
regards
Si.
while your at in why not make some little rocks in a mold over your loop outlets?
simon garratt
21-11-06, 20:21
Decided against that to be honest tiggsy. 4 evenly spaced lumps of rock would look out of place, in a tank where ive avoided any duplication or symetry as far as aquascaping goes.
one of them is smack bang in front of an island and will cover over with coraline anyway. the others will be colonised with different polyps etc and plating corals.
regards
Si.
one of them is smack bang in front of an island and will cover over with coraline anyway. the others will be colonised with different polyps etc and plating corals.
regards
Si.
:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek: i cant beliveyou just said that, you omg !!!:D:D
looks fantastic.
you could set up a business selling pre-made islands like this, im sure there'd be a great demand
Si
Of course it looks excellent - but to be honest Si we do expect that from you - and I look forward to popping round to see it soon
My only comment is that it doesn't look that high? maybe it's just the angle?
Phil
My only comment is that it doesn't look that high? maybe it's just the angle?
Phil
i noticed that as well - the rock i made for my 36" deep tank was very fiddley to get even close to 30" tall.
i am now in two minds as to leave it with lots of open space above or stack more on top - whats your plan si? is that as high as your rock will go?
Si, looking awesome ;)
Do you expect the man made rock to have a filteration capacitly?
Rgds
Jon
simon garratt
21-11-06, 22:40
i cant belive you just said that, you omg
Did i say polyps....Oh sorry, i must of had a brain fart of the highest order..:D.....What i meant to say was Ricordia's of the like....hell Ill even settle for Xenia if needs be..anything but button polyps.
Thanks for the compliments Phil. Your allways welcome round here you know that. Besides its about time you got your ugly mug round..:D
Tiggsy..Thats as high as the main rockwork is going. (about 40% of the total depth leaving about 14" for Acro growth) Dont forget Ill be adding a spattering of fresh LR as well to seed it all (probably plating rock). and there is a good portion of branch rock to go in as well to give that broken and batterd natural appearence. with various small corals and gorgonias growing off these branches as they do in the wild i recon it should fill out quite nicely.
regards
Si..
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