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knott
18-08-06, 08:19
Does any one use the Zeovit products, if so why did you decide and have you seen radical improvements since using them.

Knott

Twistedpro
18-08-06, 08:43
I dont use zeovit, but i have been using some of the fauna marin equivalents, i have only been trying them for a few weeks on my nano. I have a bag of zeolite in my sump and i dose the ultrabac ultramin and ultramin s. So far i have seen a lightening effect in my corals with more of a pastal look. I am trying to work out the best dosing scedule to get some truely great colours

jamieb
19-08-06, 19:27
ive tried it, didn't seem to make much difference, ive got about a quarter bag sitting doing nothing if you want to try it.
PM me for address if you want it
jamie

SPS Hoover
21-08-06, 11:12
Twistedpro

Have you noticed anything else regarding system are cleaning glass of green algea less often for example

Twistedpro
21-08-06, 11:55
actually simon, i needed to clean to glass more freqently at the start, more of a white bacterial film over the glass rather than a green algal one. I have also had a small diatom bloom again that lasted for around a week.

I am having play with the dosing at the moment, i dont belive it is going to provide overnight effects.

My nitrate was at around 2ppm now its not really registering on the salifert test

gregcope
21-08-06, 12:07
from all the stuff I have read (european), it seems like results take a very long time (6 months to a year).

One of the advocates was suggesting that allot of people give up and then condem it as an approach before giving it time to work, or appliying all the dosing stuff correctly.

cajen
21-08-06, 12:12
I've been told that zeolitic products contain aluminium and should be avoided for reef tanks. Anyone know if this is so? I have some Kent nitrate sponge I'd like to use.

SPS Hoover
21-08-06, 12:25
from all the stuff I have read (european), it seems like results take a very long time (6 months to a year).


I would have thought that would depend on parameters when firsted installed on tank and whether corals were newly imported or established corals which had been in system for some time.

I've been told that zeolitic products contain aluminium and should be avoided for reef tanks. Anyone know if this is so? I have some Kent nitrate sponge I'd like to use.

Normaly it is said about aluminium phosphate removers which are fluidised not every heard it said about nitrate sponges or zeo type products

cajen
21-08-06, 12:34
Normaly it is said about aluminium phosphate removers which are fluidised not every heard it said about nitrate sponges or zeo type products

Hmm... cheers, Si. Anyone else with an opinion? Don't want to make an expensive mistake! :confused:

Reef bloke
21-08-06, 13:57
If you have softies id avoid the Nitrate sponge if it contains Ally cajen.Just my opinion though.

Twistedpro
21-08-06, 14:27
as far as i am aware their have been no reported effects of aluminium poisioning from zeovit to reef tanks

fire999
25-08-06, 20:44
Does anyone have a positive results to date ?

Twistedpro
26-08-06, 09:14
i have definatly seen an increased polyp extension using the fauna marin system, as for increased colours i think its too early to say yet, only been running it for just under a month

Mike4271
26-08-06, 11:16
Worldwide there are so many opinions from, Zeovit is the best thing ever, to Zeovit is for suckers. I would do a search on Google and read everything you can, then make your decision.
It is so controversial that I believe the subject was banned on R/C, and god knows how many threads where closed because of it.
In the end "It's your decision".

I have a link to Zeovits forum if you have not checked it out already.

trythechi
24-09-06, 21:00
Does anyone have a positive results to date ?

I'v used zeovit for 4 months now, and moved off the skeptical fense to being quite impressed. See TOTM over on RP for the write up and pics.

Cheers

Simon

ANDREW 30
26-09-06, 22:48
I have a zeo filter and two bags of zeolite and a selection of addatives if anyones interested. I bought all these about a year ago, but did'nt use them!
Andrew

ickypimp
27-09-06, 10:24
how much you wanting for them ??

ANDREW 30
27-09-06, 13:05
These are the items i have for those of you that have enquired:
The reactor is a I~Aquatic, a nearly full zeostart, a nearly full zeospur 2, a nearly full zeofood 7 and a just over half bottle of zeo bac but the label has gone due to it living in the fridge. I also have the 2 unopened bags of zeovit.
I bought all these items from another UR member some time back who found the dosing etc a pain in the ar*e, i then bought the zeovit which was all i needed extra to get me runnning and never got it setup!
I'll be looking for £90 + P&P for everything, obviously postage would be at your expence and risk.

Andrew

ANDREW 30
28-09-06, 17:12
Open to sensible offers on items above!

jimdon IOM
28-09-06, 18:32
I've used Kent nitrate sponge for years, it certainly works but does take a long time to start with. I have it in the sump in the inside of on old canister filter media container the slow flow output from my rowaphos reactor goes into the top of it.
I change about half of it each 6 months and rarely have a detectable nitrate reading.

mariusz621
29-09-06, 20:38
I used zeovit before. It took about 4 months for me to see the effects, and the results were fantastic. It took me a good few weeks to work out the dosage...
The pic in my signature is from the zeovit tank.

Tony B
03-10-06, 08:51
This is imo a another "miracle mud" type of product, some of us will swear by it, others swear at it!

The way it works and the results we see (you see) are hard to measure, plus it can take a long time to work. Perception of how effective it is will be liable to differ from user to user. :)

Then there will be people who may argue that you may have seen those same results in 9 months anyway.....or maybe better results quicker if you had not used it.....:eek:

Just my 2 pence

trythechi
03-10-06, 12:30
This is imo a another "miracle mud" type of product, some of us will swear by it, others swear at it!

The way it works and the results we see (you see) are hard to measure, plus it can take a long time to work. Perception of how effective it is will be liable to differ from user to user. :)

Then there will be people who may argue that you may have seen those same results in 9 months anyway.....or maybe better results quicker if you had not used it.....:eek:

Just my 2 pence

Have you used it Tony? It isn't a MM type product, although I agree that some swear at it (those who have lost sps to TN as a result) and some appear to be cult like devotees (well some of the US followers do anyway).

I have tried it and so speak from hands on experience. You can observe the effects - but the whole product range is quite complex, so the key is understanding the system and observing cause and effect, and know what remedial actions to take which requires a substantial discipline to dose one element at a time and in moderate amounts as per the guide or less if the reef is not heavily stocked.

Zeoheads recommend high and exacting levels of SPS husbandary. This should be enough to get the best out of SPS right? Zeo has to prove itself over and above these standards as the acid test of its worth. If one is the type that spends a shed load of money and sees good results in even the feintest glimmer of a change, you are going to be happy. I'm the type that spends shed loads of cash, and goes hyper critical:rolleyes:

Here is how the system breaks down:

Nutrient reduction:

All the usual husbandary ie intensive skimming, water change with RO/RI moderate feeding.

The zeo element is to also provide a biological/chemical filter in the zeo-reactor which both reduces nutrients and provides bacteriaplancton. The use of zeolites for this has caused some controversy and the flow rate through the reactor appears critical, as too high a rate is said to cause TN by stripping out nutrients too quickly.

The other feature of the 'basic 4' is the use of regular ballanced bacteria innoculations, bacteria food, and a carbon source. The theory is that in a closed system the bacterial guild become unballanced over time with some bacs becoming dominant and some dying out. You could argue that the bacs that die out do so for a reason, as they dont have the conditions to thrive, however what isnt clear is the role of these weaker bacs as a plancton food source for other inhabitants.

I remain unsure of the value of the zeolites. Its unclear to me what the advantage is of these compared to letting the bacs /skimmer to all the work innutrient reduction. I wonder if its would be as effective to use similar sizes of LR in a zeo reactor to host the bacs.

Regarding the bacs - I have used both Prodibio and zeo bacs, and both have resulted in measurable reductions in NO3 and PO4.

The end result of the use of zeobasic 4 (zb4) is a nutrient limited enviroment, resulting in alage die back including the symbiotic zoos in sps. I can vouch for this IME. The result of symbiotic die back is that underlying color can be seen. However, left at that there is a risk that sps become so nnutrient deprived that they start to bleach - hense the importance of alternative feeding:

Alternative feeding:

Mulm :Shaking the zeolite daily (or LR pieces I would guess) produces bactoplancton. The water goes cloudy and Polip extention extends in response. This is critical to the sytem working. The resulting 'mulm' reflects the make up of the bac strains, bac food and carbon source, and so its nutritional value will reflect that. How one tests, other than through anecdotal experience - I have no idea:confused:

However both PE of sps and growth other filter feeders is a sight to behold. The zooplanction in my refugium have multiplied extensively, and the sponges have grown considerably too.

Amino Acids: Fed after lights out, these are important to prevent bleaching. It takes a while to get the dose right to prevent bleaching or excessive darkening - but it does work.

Phols CV: Another food source - contents unknown. I stopped using this a couple of weeks ago just to see if it make a difference and the colors became less vibrant - still the same colors but more matt/dull.

Element management/additions:

Major elements are kept within the usual params for sps tanks, with two significant exceptions:

DKH is recomended within 6-8 with users claiming higher can cause STN in this method. Obviously there are great tank with higher dkh, but that is the zeo recomendation for thier system.

A focus on Potassium has been a major recent development with the advent of a suplement and test kit. Most mainstream salts, with the exception of Seachem Reef are below NSW levels, and I have notice real gains in growth and vibrancy since paying attention to it. An interesting Q here is why do some tanks look superb without supplementing for K? I dont know - maybe something to do with the zeolites, or the enhanced growth rates that can be achieved with this method? I remain impressed in my reef though.

Minor element additions:

ZeoSpur 2 and B Ballance: Real stars in the range - these expell zoos from sps revealing underlying color. So powerful, that you need to have mastered the above before even experimenting with caution. You dont need to develope sutble powers of observation with these, but disciplin is critical.

Macro elements: Replenishes elements and effects growth rates. Easily checked by with holding doses - the reef slows down.

Iron, Potassium Idodine, Floride, Iodine: Used to tweak colors. Again easily checked by adding or with drawing doses.

All this takes time money and energy to implement, and is not for those who want quick fixes, because:

1) OD on these can cause more problems than they solve so feeling onces way cautiously is needed;
2) SPS respond to slow steady shifts in environmental conditions - that is thier nature.

I'v come off the fense to being quite impressed with the system after 4 months, and happy for any experienced sps keeper with good color already who are interested in the method to come an visit to assess for themselves.

It wont turn genetically brown sps into oregan torts, and some specimones when introduced go down hill then re-emerge looking different but attractive, and its a joy to watch something with a hint of clor turn in a LFS trun out to be something quite special after a while.

Hope thats interesting at least:)

Cheers

Simon

ANDREW 30
03-10-06, 12:40
Perhaps i should have kept my zeo kit afterall! :rolleyes:

trythechi
05-10-06, 15:06
Perhaps i should have kept my zeo kit afterall! :rolleyes:

Yes :D - thanks btw.

Simon

Brad Villeggiante
29-10-06, 22:45
Hey Knott:

I just moved to Edinburgh from California, and when I lived back in the states I used zeovit for about 2 years and loved it. It is tricky, and you really have to stay on top of things, but if you do it can really improve your SPS coloring. If you have any questions, along with anyone else, please feel free to PM me.

CurvBall
29-10-06, 23:52
I used the ZEOvit system on my last tank, only a very short time , 6 weeks, but I did notice positive changes. I will be going ZEOvit with my next system without a doubt. The ZEOvit community is one of the best online communities and they are always friendly and will to help ya out.

knott
30-10-06, 07:55
Cheers brad,
at the moment, my sps colours are better than when I introduced, so for the moment I am still on the fence re Zeovit, thansk for everybodies experiences

Reef Encounters
26-11-06, 19:54
Hi,

we've been running the Fauna Marin full ultralith system (ultralith in zeo reactor, dosing ultrabak, ultra min s, & Ultra bio) on our 7ft display tank.

we are not adding any other products other than a mixture of frozen and algae for fish.

Its only been running for approx 2 weeks, so far we have observed the following,

Nitrate reduction from 100+ to 25,:eek:
No change on phosphate
ammonia & nitrite 0 (to be fair they were 0 before we adopted the system)

no change in acro colours although greater polyp extension,
stylophorias & pocillaporas (i know spelling!) have began to 'pale' to more pastel' and polyp extension on them is like nothing we have seen before.

On our gorgs again polyp extension is really good and the dendro's remain upright and vigour.

LPS has had greater expansion (ie balloning)

zoas and mushies remain unchanged and our goni's retracted slowly and don't
seem to like the lower nutriet water and have been removed.

Fish remain unchanged water is clearer and we have to clean the glass probably twice a week (where before we did it about 4-5 times)

It is reccomended that when using the fauna marin products you should use half the reccommend doses and slowly work your way up, a film appearing on the glass is a sign of over dosing.

Although its only been a couple of weeks we are really happy with the results (in fact we just ordered the larger size reactor:D :D ) the fauna products are of a very high quality speaking to claude its clear that alot of time and research has gone into them.
we will keep your all updated on the results as we go, feel free to to come down to the shop and have a look at the ultralith system in action...

maestro
27-11-06, 17:29
I have been running the Ultralith system for about a week and as above noticed a big difference in water clarity.

Nitrate has gone from 20ppm to 10ppm

A good money saving tip

Buy Prodibio biodigest instead of of the Fauna Marin Ultrabio, its the same product but the ultrabio is twice the price!!!

craigg
01-12-06, 23:48
Buy Prodibio biodigest instead of of the Fauna Marin Ultrabio, its the same product but the ultrabio is twice the price!!!

Not if you buy in the new format of a small dropper bottle, it seems to last for ages, much better value.

maestro
01-12-06, 23:57
Cool, do you have to keep it in the fridge craig? whats the shelf life? the old ultrabio even had prodibio labels on the ampoules!!

gregg
19-12-06, 19:03
interesting read im gonna give this a try in the new system

trythechi
07-01-07, 08:43
Hi,

we've been running the Fauna Marin full ultralith system (ultralith in zeo reactor, dosing ultrabak, ultra min s, & Ultra bio) on our 7ft display tank.

we are not adding any other products other than a mixture of frozen and algae for fish.

Its only been running for approx 2 weeks, so far we have observed the following,

Nitrate reduction from 100+ to 25,:eek:
No change on phosphate
ammonia & nitrite 0 (to be fair they were 0 before we adopted the system)

no change in acro colours although greater polyp extension,
stylophorias & pocillaporas (i know spelling!) have began to 'pale' to more pastel' and polyp extension on them is like nothing we have seen before.

On our gorgs again polyp extension is really good and the dendro's remain upright and vigour.

LPS has had greater expansion (ie balloning)

zoas and mushies remain unchanged and our goni's retracted slowly and don't
seem to like the lower nutriet water and have been removed.

Fish remain unchanged water is clearer and we have to clean the glass probably twice a week (where before we did it about 4-5 times)

It is reccomended that when using the fauna marin products you should use half the reccommend doses and slowly work your way up, a film appearing on the glass is a sign of over dosing.

Although its only been a couple of weeks we are really happy with the results (in fact we just ordered the larger size reactor:D :D ) the fauna products are of a very high quality speaking to claude its clear that alot of time and research has gone into them.
we will keep your all updated on the results as we go, feel free to to come down to the shop and have a look at the ultralith system in action...


Hi RE

Just for the purposes of clarity - you are using FM rather than ZEOvit.

There are paralells and differences between the two systems that maybe helpful to describe:

Paralels:

Basic system: Both use zeolites, regular bacterial inoculations, bacteria food, and a carbon source.
Beacuase the massive bac populations in both systems are so effective at consuming nutients, the bacs consume a large quantity of potassium - which if not repleished will result in stunted growth and fading colors in some sps. ZEOvit used a product call K ballance to replenish losses, and FM has Ultra Organics, which contains other elements too.
Both systems use Amino Acids as part of the alternative feeding strategy in a nutrient limited environment.
Both ranges have various media other than zeolites for use in reactors.Differences:

ZEOvit has a wide range of elements that are used to tweak coloration in SPS:
FM: Has a wide range of food available suitable for specific and distinct animal feeding groups.I'v only used ZEOvit - so cant comment on FM in practice - but it seems to me that the basic 4 in both serve the same function and will get the same results in the hands of a reefer who understands what is happening and plays close attention to how our animals are responding.

I imagine ZEOvit will have the advantage in being able to tweak coloration in SPS, and that FM will have the advantage in meeting the feedfing needs for a wider range of animals.

I'm looking forward to seeing an SPS dominated tank with 6-8 months of FM husbandary behind it.

JMO

Simon

trythechi
07-01-07, 11:24
This is the tank of the German aquarist Alexander G who brought ZEOvit to the english speaking world. Halide and T5s.

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/DSC05088.jpg

This is the Tank of Iwan Lesser - a Swiss aquairst who used a hybrid system of Prodibio and Zeovit: T5 only. He taught me - and I'm still learning. He's since closed this tank down - started a new one and gone 100% ZEOvit. God knows why - hard to beat........ For those wondering about photoshop - check the fish as reference colors...

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/DSC01377.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/DSC01378.jpg


http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/ganz.jpg


Something to inspire and aim for:D

Cheers

Simon

maestro
07-01-07, 16:49
Just doing a comparison between the basic Zeovit and Ultralith systems.

Is this right?

Ultralith = Zeolith

Ultrabio (bacteria) = Zeobak

Ultrabak (bacteria food) = Zeofood7 and Zeostart2

Ultramin s (coral food) = AAHC and Coral Vitalizer

SPS Hoover
07-01-07, 17:58
I would say its

Ultralith = Zeolith

Ultrabio (bacteria) = Zeofood7 and Zeostart2

Ultrabak (bacteria food) = Zeobak

Ultramin s (coral food) = AAHC and Coral Vitalizer

Reef Encounters
07-01-07, 18:52
hi,

yes just for clarity we are using the FM ultralith system

ultralith in grotech reactor plunged 2-3 times a week,
weekly dosing of ultrabio
daily dosing of ultramins, ultrabak, and now ultraorganic.
we have also started soaking foods in ultramin & plus a daily dose to increase fish immunity. (we have noticed difference in powder blue over the last week.)

:)

Stevielad
07-01-07, 18:56
I would say its

Ultralith = Zeolith

Ultrabio (bacteria) = Zeofood7 and Zeostart2

Ultrabak (bacteria food) = Zeobak

Ultramin s (coral food) = AAHC and Coral Vitalizer

I think you meant:

Ultrabio (bacteria) = Zeobak

Ultrabak (bacteria food) = Zeofood7 and Zeostart2

trythechi
07-01-07, 19:15
Sounds broadly comparable Maestro - I'm not sure of what the carbon source is in FM that would be the equivalent to ZEOstart2. In ZEOvit you guage the dosages of zeofood7 and zeostart based on different indicators.

maestro
07-01-07, 19:36
Its got ethanol in it and smells like vinegar so there is some carbon source there plus trace elements.

SPS Hoover
07-01-07, 19:59
Quote:
Originally Posted by SPS Hoover http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/images/styles/xmass/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1587507#post1587507)
I would say its

Ultralith = Zeolith

Ultrabio (bacteria) = Zeofood7 and Zeostart2

Ultrabak (bacteria food) = Zeobak

Ultramin s (coral food) = AAHC and Coral Vitalizer

I think you meant:

Ultrabio (bacteria) = Zeobak

Ultrabak (bacteria food) = Zeofood7 and Zeostart2

Yes your right I'm wrong just read zeo guide again

guybirch
07-01-07, 20:28
This is the Tank of Iwan Lesser - a Swiss aquairst who used a hybrid system of Prodibio and Zeovit: T5 only. He taught me - and I'm still learning. He's since closed this tank down - started a new one and gone 100% ZEOvit. God knows why - hard to beat........ For those wondering about photoshop - check the fish as reference colors...

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/DSC01377.jpg
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/DSC01378.jpg


http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/ganz.jpg


Something to inspire and aim for:D

Cheers

Simon

Nice tank, but theres no need to saturate the images THAT much, looking on his website his purple tang looks like its been a little too close to Chernobyl

trythechi
07-01-07, 20:54
Its got ethanol in it and smells like vinegar so there is some carbon source there plus trace elements.

Oh OK - that'll be it then:) What are the recommended dosing variables with that as a matter of interest?

maestro
07-01-07, 21:03
It says 2-5ml ml per 1000ml per day, start slowly and carefully

trythechi
14-01-07, 20:32
Nice tank, but theres no need to saturate the images THAT much, looking on his website his purple tang looks like its been a little too close to Chernobyl


LOl - true enough - have you seen the vids? Coloration is to die for:D

Red Devil
07-11-08, 15:44
I was in Erdington Aquatics today and Richard, who looks after the Marines, was doing some work on a system operating this. I had never heard of it before today.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v660/elbmek/zeovit3.jpg

Red Devil
07-11-08, 15:46
and the tank:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v660/elbmek/zeovit1.jpg

jacksok
07-11-08, 19:40
As you've probably worked out - this is a pretty old thread. There's now a whole sub-forum (http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=320) dedicated to this methodology if you want to learn more.