rockpoolie
10-09-06, 19:09
Having just took delivery of a D&D nano Cube I've been giving somethought to providing a staged dimming of lights I turned my attention to the moonlight LEDS. D&D have been criticized for not providing separate control for these other than the manual switch.
I've come up with a relatively and simple DIY solution that cost at most £10 and takes about 90 mins. The mod will switch on the moonlights once the cold cathode has gone out (presumably timed after main lights). The switch in the lid still works and can provide an override for the automation as required..
You will a maplins light operated switch kit (£5.50) a 12V DC PSU (may be able to using same one as for cold cathode depending on rating), piggy back spade connectors x2 and a couple of lengths of cable.
The kit is quite straightforward to assemble (took me about 45 mins) the only change I made was to hard wire the length of cable for the 12V supply direct to the PCB as didn’t want to use the socket provided.
Remove the light cover, tubes and tube clips then the reflector. Care as an earthing cable is attached buit it will swing over and out of the way to give access to the switch. Take of the two spade connectors and fix two lengths of cable to to the two piggy back connectors ( about 9”). Fix the piggy back connector to the switch and re-fit the original spades to the other side of the piggy backs. I covered both with insulating tape. The two wires from the switch connect to the terminal block on the PCB – terminals marked common © and normally open(NO).
The PCB mounts between the two fans at rear using two of the mounting posts in the hood (another hole drilled in the PCB for the lower left mount. The 12 supply cable exits to the right behind the fan and through an new hole drilled into the back of the inner plate. From there it can exit the rear of the hood in the grommeted hole provided for pump. Test everything before re-assembling. Once power is provide to the PCB cover the sensor and the LEDS should come on. The actual level at which the unit switches can be adjusted, maybe to compensate for ambient room light from a TV (I’ve still got to do this after dark). Check the main switch it should still switch the LEDs on (it wont however switch them off – if the light sensing switch is operating – to give this option a simple switch can be put on the 12V DC line to the unit – or better still put this PSU on a timer giving total control)
Once tested and all working re-assemble the hood and voila automatic moonlights.
I've come up with a relatively and simple DIY solution that cost at most £10 and takes about 90 mins. The mod will switch on the moonlights once the cold cathode has gone out (presumably timed after main lights). The switch in the lid still works and can provide an override for the automation as required..
You will a maplins light operated switch kit (£5.50) a 12V DC PSU (may be able to using same one as for cold cathode depending on rating), piggy back spade connectors x2 and a couple of lengths of cable.
The kit is quite straightforward to assemble (took me about 45 mins) the only change I made was to hard wire the length of cable for the 12V supply direct to the PCB as didn’t want to use the socket provided.
Remove the light cover, tubes and tube clips then the reflector. Care as an earthing cable is attached buit it will swing over and out of the way to give access to the switch. Take of the two spade connectors and fix two lengths of cable to to the two piggy back connectors ( about 9”). Fix the piggy back connector to the switch and re-fit the original spades to the other side of the piggy backs. I covered both with insulating tape. The two wires from the switch connect to the terminal block on the PCB – terminals marked common © and normally open(NO).
The PCB mounts between the two fans at rear using two of the mounting posts in the hood (another hole drilled in the PCB for the lower left mount. The 12 supply cable exits to the right behind the fan and through an new hole drilled into the back of the inner plate. From there it can exit the rear of the hood in the grommeted hole provided for pump. Test everything before re-assembling. Once power is provide to the PCB cover the sensor and the LEDS should come on. The actual level at which the unit switches can be adjusted, maybe to compensate for ambient room light from a TV (I’ve still got to do this after dark). Check the main switch it should still switch the LEDs on (it wont however switch them off – if the light sensing switch is operating – to give this option a simple switch can be put on the 12V DC line to the unit – or better still put this PSU on a timer giving total control)
Once tested and all working re-assemble the hood and voila automatic moonlights.