jobr
12-09-06, 11:37
UltimateReef.com is proud to feature its latest
'Tank of the Month'.
Owned by Martin Lakin aka Acropora, congratulations on a superb set up.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Tank%209%20%28Medium%29.jpg
So in the tradition of all TOTM I start by saying a few plaudits, thanks to Jeremy Simmons and Ron Hessing for taking the photographs and for those in Ultimate Reef for nominating my reef system. So let’s get on with it, a few facts and figures.
Tank
Tank set up approximately 8 years ago, but I have been keeping Marines for the last 28 years.
Display tank measures 5ft 6” (L) x 4ft 6” (w) x 2ft 6” (2ft water) (H).
Total system volume 800 gallons includes 9ft x 3ft x 2ft 6” sumps and smaller sumps
Tip: Carefully choose the tank dimensions, so many people underestimate the cost of running a large tank, mine costs roughly £4.00 per day in electricity, never mind the ongoing costs to replace things like bulbs, media, RO filters etc. However, don’t go too small, it’s relatively easy to upgrade lights, skimmers filters, but putting in a larger tank is really hard work, so get it right, careful planning is the key.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Frontal%20%28Medium%29.JPG
Front of Tank
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Back%20view%20%28Medium%29.JPG
Rear of Tank
Lights
6 No. 250w Giesemann supplemented with natural sunlight, via a skylight above the tank, which is shielded by a ‘black out’ blind at night.
Tip: Choose what you are going to keep in the tank, as this will dictate the light intensity required, assuming you want hard / soft corals in my opinion the best option in metal halides, T5s are ok, providing you have lots of them, you regularly change the lamps and your tank is less than 2ft in depth. If you are going to use metal halides, get an efficient unit, one which spreads the light and has control equipment (chokes and ballasts etc) matched to the bulbs specification. Possibly not the cheapest, but in my view the Rolls Royce of halide units has to be without question those made by Giesemann and available in this country from D & d Aquarium Solutions. Not only do they make a superb luminaire, but their bulbs are great too, I used to use 3 No. 20K and 3 No. 10K lamps, however, the Giesemann 14K gives a really great aesthetic appearance and the corals thrive too.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Halides%20%28Small%29.JPG
Halides
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Chiller%20%28Small%29.JPG
Eco Chiller
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Controls%20%28Small%29.JPG
Control Panel
Pumps
Sequence 12,000 feeds CA Reactor, Rowaphos Reactor, Eco Cooler and all sumps / main tank return.
In my view sequence pumps provide really good output / head for the power consumed. While they are one of the quietest pumps in their class, they are still ‘humm’ this scan be significantly reduced by mounting on springs, connecting the input and outlet with Silicon Hose* and installing within an accoustic chamber (constructed of high density wood (50mm worktop) and 50mm rockwool).
Circulation within the tank is via TUNZE stream 6100, 2 No. Eheim 1060s and the return from the sump.
Make up Water
Reverse Osmosis, 5 micron and carbon filters.
Tip: OK its not fun buying replacement filters and RO membranes but remember that it’s important to maintain the quality of the output water. The RO Unit it connected to a D&D auto top up device fitted to the sump, this is also connected to a timer to ensure top up water only enters the tank at night when the pH is relatively low.
Calcium Addition
Provided by a Deltec 1000 Calcium Reactor & Kalkwasser Stirrer.
The former is the work horse, in maintaining the Ca at about 420 – 440 mg/ l, the fluidised reactor chamber uses a blend of ‘Black and White‘ Rowalith media, I find the white melts much easier, but the black is needed to help fluidise. Deltec have recently modified their reactors to ease the removal of media and to allow the use of a sponge to protect the pump impeller, they also sell upgrade kits.
I also use Kalkwasser at the rate of about 12 teaspoons per fortnight (not a great quantity), but think it helps stabilise the pH.
Phosphates
I would never run the tank without constantly using phosphate remover (Rowaphos),
Tip: It’s important to maximise the efficiency of Rowaphos, I have found that it lasts much longer by fluidising within a Deltec rather than simply leaving it within a porous bag within the sump. I suppose I use about 5 litres every 6 months.
Water Changes
I’m going back to rewrite what I originally wrote here and some of my previous problems. Lets just say, I’, using Reef Crystals and Instant Ocean.
I carryout a 10% water change per month, newly made up water is always circulated within the vat for 3 – 4 days before being slowly mixed into the system by turning a few valves the vat becomes part of the system. After a day, I isolate the vat and dump the water. If you have time, I would recommend more water changes perhaps weekly 5% water changes. Remember when quoting percentages look at things from the other way round, a 10% water change means 90% of the old water remains behind!
Skimming
Deltec 1004 Skimmer
Vitally important to ensure the skimmer cup and central chamber is kept clean, something simple, but I see all too often overflowing skimmer cups on reefers tanks. It’s also important to use a small drill every 3 or 4 weeks to ream out the venture inlets and maintain the flow of air.
Nitrate Removal
Around about a year ago I installed one of the Deltec NO3 reactors to reduce the nitrates which had risen way above 30mg/l, it took a few months to mature, but they work really efficiently. Essentially they work by using a constant flow of tank water (a bit faster than a dribble) and variable tank water feed (to maintain the Redox level at minus 170mV. The reactor comes with a food source, however, Methanol or VODKA can be used with caution, to feed the bacterial culture. The mature reactor will now produce water which I get a completely clear Salifert NO3 reading from.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Carbon%20Reactor%20%28Small%29.JPG http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Deltec%20Calcium%20Reactor%20%28Small%29.jpg
Rowa Reactor~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Calcium Reactor
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Deltec%20Skimmer%20%28Small%291.JPG http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Kalk%20Stir%20%28Small%291.JPG
~~~~~~~~Deltec Skimmer~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Kalk Stirer~~~~~~~~~~
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/NO3%20Reactor%20%28Small%291.JPG
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~NO3 Reactor~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
'Tank of the Month'.
Owned by Martin Lakin aka Acropora, congratulations on a superb set up.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Tank%209%20%28Medium%29.jpg
So in the tradition of all TOTM I start by saying a few plaudits, thanks to Jeremy Simmons and Ron Hessing for taking the photographs and for those in Ultimate Reef for nominating my reef system. So let’s get on with it, a few facts and figures.
Tank
Tank set up approximately 8 years ago, but I have been keeping Marines for the last 28 years.
Display tank measures 5ft 6” (L) x 4ft 6” (w) x 2ft 6” (2ft water) (H).
Total system volume 800 gallons includes 9ft x 3ft x 2ft 6” sumps and smaller sumps
Tip: Carefully choose the tank dimensions, so many people underestimate the cost of running a large tank, mine costs roughly £4.00 per day in electricity, never mind the ongoing costs to replace things like bulbs, media, RO filters etc. However, don’t go too small, it’s relatively easy to upgrade lights, skimmers filters, but putting in a larger tank is really hard work, so get it right, careful planning is the key.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Frontal%20%28Medium%29.JPG
Front of Tank
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Back%20view%20%28Medium%29.JPG
Rear of Tank
Lights
6 No. 250w Giesemann supplemented with natural sunlight, via a skylight above the tank, which is shielded by a ‘black out’ blind at night.
Tip: Choose what you are going to keep in the tank, as this will dictate the light intensity required, assuming you want hard / soft corals in my opinion the best option in metal halides, T5s are ok, providing you have lots of them, you regularly change the lamps and your tank is less than 2ft in depth. If you are going to use metal halides, get an efficient unit, one which spreads the light and has control equipment (chokes and ballasts etc) matched to the bulbs specification. Possibly not the cheapest, but in my view the Rolls Royce of halide units has to be without question those made by Giesemann and available in this country from D & d Aquarium Solutions. Not only do they make a superb luminaire, but their bulbs are great too, I used to use 3 No. 20K and 3 No. 10K lamps, however, the Giesemann 14K gives a really great aesthetic appearance and the corals thrive too.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Halides%20%28Small%29.JPG
Halides
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Chiller%20%28Small%29.JPG
Eco Chiller
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Controls%20%28Small%29.JPG
Control Panel
Pumps
Sequence 12,000 feeds CA Reactor, Rowaphos Reactor, Eco Cooler and all sumps / main tank return.
In my view sequence pumps provide really good output / head for the power consumed. While they are one of the quietest pumps in their class, they are still ‘humm’ this scan be significantly reduced by mounting on springs, connecting the input and outlet with Silicon Hose* and installing within an accoustic chamber (constructed of high density wood (50mm worktop) and 50mm rockwool).
Circulation within the tank is via TUNZE stream 6100, 2 No. Eheim 1060s and the return from the sump.
Make up Water
Reverse Osmosis, 5 micron and carbon filters.
Tip: OK its not fun buying replacement filters and RO membranes but remember that it’s important to maintain the quality of the output water. The RO Unit it connected to a D&D auto top up device fitted to the sump, this is also connected to a timer to ensure top up water only enters the tank at night when the pH is relatively low.
Calcium Addition
Provided by a Deltec 1000 Calcium Reactor & Kalkwasser Stirrer.
The former is the work horse, in maintaining the Ca at about 420 – 440 mg/ l, the fluidised reactor chamber uses a blend of ‘Black and White‘ Rowalith media, I find the white melts much easier, but the black is needed to help fluidise. Deltec have recently modified their reactors to ease the removal of media and to allow the use of a sponge to protect the pump impeller, they also sell upgrade kits.
I also use Kalkwasser at the rate of about 12 teaspoons per fortnight (not a great quantity), but think it helps stabilise the pH.
Phosphates
I would never run the tank without constantly using phosphate remover (Rowaphos),
Tip: It’s important to maximise the efficiency of Rowaphos, I have found that it lasts much longer by fluidising within a Deltec rather than simply leaving it within a porous bag within the sump. I suppose I use about 5 litres every 6 months.
Water Changes
I’m going back to rewrite what I originally wrote here and some of my previous problems. Lets just say, I’, using Reef Crystals and Instant Ocean.
I carryout a 10% water change per month, newly made up water is always circulated within the vat for 3 – 4 days before being slowly mixed into the system by turning a few valves the vat becomes part of the system. After a day, I isolate the vat and dump the water. If you have time, I would recommend more water changes perhaps weekly 5% water changes. Remember when quoting percentages look at things from the other way round, a 10% water change means 90% of the old water remains behind!
Skimming
Deltec 1004 Skimmer
Vitally important to ensure the skimmer cup and central chamber is kept clean, something simple, but I see all too often overflowing skimmer cups on reefers tanks. It’s also important to use a small drill every 3 or 4 weeks to ream out the venture inlets and maintain the flow of air.
Nitrate Removal
Around about a year ago I installed one of the Deltec NO3 reactors to reduce the nitrates which had risen way above 30mg/l, it took a few months to mature, but they work really efficiently. Essentially they work by using a constant flow of tank water (a bit faster than a dribble) and variable tank water feed (to maintain the Redox level at minus 170mV. The reactor comes with a food source, however, Methanol or VODKA can be used with caution, to feed the bacterial culture. The mature reactor will now produce water which I get a completely clear Salifert NO3 reading from.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Carbon%20Reactor%20%28Small%29.JPG http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Deltec%20Calcium%20Reactor%20%28Small%29.jpg
Rowa Reactor~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Calcium Reactor
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Deltec%20Skimmer%20%28Small%291.JPG http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/Kalk%20Stir%20%28Small%291.JPG
~~~~~~~~Deltec Skimmer~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Kalk Stirer~~~~~~~~~~
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q1/NO3%20Reactor%20%28Small%291.JPG
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~NO3 Reactor~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~