PDA

View Full Version : Equipment Glossary


cajen
08-04-07, 13:27
Equipment glossary

Here we will describe and illustrate some of the rather daunting equipment lists that you will see mentioned on UR. The items in each post are in alphabetical order.

Please note that examples of manufacturers' models are suggestions and are not intended to be recommendations nor a comprehensive list.

The red italics refer to equipment described elsewhere in the glossary.



Closed loop

A closed loop is a way of keeping unsightly pumps out of the display tank. The tank is drilled with a weir and a pipe leads to an externally mounted water pump (see also return pump). The outflow from the pump is then piped back to the tank. A popular choice is to have the return exiting under the live rock to avoid areas of low flow.

Alternatively the pump is fed from a slotted pipe under the live rock which exits through the tank base or up and over the tank side, and it returns to the front of the tank. Again either through the tank base or up and over the side.


Metal Halides, T5s, Actinics

See the lighting thread (http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/showthread.php?t=190122) in the Advice Library.


Overflow box

A syphon device for people who want to add a sump to a tank which is already running without having to drill holes. Once primed, water is sucked out of the display tank and runs down into the sump tank. A pump is used to return the water from the sump back up to the display tank.

Models available include the Schuran (about 2000 lit/hr) and the Tunze (about 1700 lit/hr). Check the flow rating to match it to the return pump.

The Schuran flowbox:
http://www.aquaristic.net/out/1/html/0/dyn_images/z1/292030_z1.jpg
The airline is to allow for bubbles which can accumulate inside to be sucked out. This is easily done by attaching it to the venturi of a powerhead.


Powerheads and Streams

These are pumps designed to move water around the display tank (a requirement for the bacteria colonising live rock to work efficiently).

Older and smaller designs, such as the Maxijet range, produce a narrow jet of water. This is not ideal, as the idea is to move larger volumes. Consequently, many modern pumps are 'streams', with a wider outflow.

How much flow do you need? This depends on what kind of corals you want to keep: tanks for soft corals, mushrooms and zoas will need about 20 times the tank volume while LPS and especially SPS tanks have 40 times or more. As an example, a 300 litre softy tank could be equipped with two streams of 3,000 litres each.

Positioning of the pumps can be a matter of opinion but many reefers have a pump at either end of the tank, pointing towards the front centre glass. This creates a chaotic flow which benefits many corals. Avoid any position where corals are close to the outflow, as SPS especially can be damaged or killed. Some of the more expensive streams can be connected to a timer system so that they can be turned up and down, or on and off, replicating sea currents. Note that most of the cheaper pumps can't be turned on and off regularly and so are unsuitable for timers.

Popular makes include Tunze, Seio and Hydor.

A Tunze 6080 stream:
http://www.shopsolution.nl/clients/seameuk/prod_images/stream6080.jpeg


Protein skimmer

This is a device which removes organic wastes from the water, thus lessening the load on the biological filtration. It works by creating a fine-bubbled foam, which the wastes adhere to. The foam collapses at the top and is collected in a cup.

Most reefers consider a skimmer to be an essential piece of equipment, though some who run mud-based systems don't use one. Some very small nano tanks have no room for a skimmer and frequent water changes are necessary instead.

Modern skimmers are run by one or more water pumps; the old air-pump-driven skimmers were just not efficient enough.

Before buying a skimmer, decide where you can put it. Some are designed to hang outside on the back of the tank ('HOB'), while others can be housed in the sump. Only a few models can be used in both positions.

Popular makes include Deltec, Aquamedic, Grotech and v2.

Deltec MCE600 (HOB): Aquamedic Turbofloter 3000 (in-sump design):
http://www.thelivingseas.co.uk/ekmps/shops/livingseas/images/deltecmce600.jpg . http://www.atlantisaquatics.co.uk/acatalog/turboflotor3000.jpg

Return pump

This is a pump which is housed inside a sump to return the water to the main display. Check that the flow is suitable for your setup and allow for the reduction in flow caused by the head (the vertical distance between the pump and its outflow in the main tank). Most manufacturers publish details of head loss on their websites.

Also consider whether you will be submerging the pump in the sump or running it externally (not all pumps can do both). Running it in the sump can be quieter but may increase water temperature. Some makes have adjustable flow.

Example makes: Newjet, Eheim, Ocean Runner and Sequence.

An Eheim 1262:

http://www.thelivingseas.co.uk/ekmps/shops/livingseas/images/eheimhobbylarge%286%29.jpg


Ultra-violet Sterilisers

An issue which tends to divide aquarists is the use of UV sterilisers, with some swearing by their effectiveness and others condemning them as useless or even harmful.

Ultra violet radiation has the ability to destroy micro-organisms. A UV steriliser is a unit through which water is pumped and is exposed to an ultraviolet lamp. This can destroy or affect the DNA of micro-organisms, including the pathogens such as white spot trophonts. Opponents of UV say that beneficial organisms will also be affected, or that hobbyist units are not powerful enough.

The unit should be situated after a filter, as dirty water will absorb UV and reduce its effectiveness. An ideal setup is via the outflow from an external canister filter which contains carbon to reduce yellowing.

The maximum lamp life is usually 8000 hours, but it is a good idea to replace lamps every 4000 hours (about 6 months) as efficiency tends to drop over time. Check the manufacturers’ recommendations for unit size and through flow.

Note: UV setups for ponds are not suitable for marine tanks.

The most popular make seems to be Vecton.

http://www.findtheneedle.co.uk/images/products/19459.jpg

Dave_P
08-04-07, 18:11
Aquarium Chiller

Maintaining a constant temperature during the summer can be difficult. This piece of equipment can be installed to lower the temperature.

An aquarium chiller works on the same principle as a fridge.

You will also need a pump to take the water to and from the tank. The manufacturer instructions should be consulted as to the required flowrate.

Also the chiller should be sited outside the house as being a heat exchanger they emit a lot of heat.

Popular makes include: Aqua Medic, Teco

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/Titan%20.jpg


Calcium Reactors

Calcium reactors are a device to maintain calcium and carbonates/bicarbonates (alkalinity) in the aquarium.

The media used in the reaction chamber is a form of calcium carbonate. CO2 is then injected into the chamber normally through a bubble counter to create an acidic solution (carbonic acid). This dissolves the calcium carbonate media releasing calcium and carbonates/bicarbonates which is then assimilated by the tank inhabitants.

There are different size reactors dependent on size of tank/consumption of inhabitants.

Popular makes include: Deltec, Schuran, Grotech, Korallin

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/Deltec-CalcReactor.gif http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/jetstream1.jpg http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/HKR110jpg.jpg

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/korallin-Calc-reactors.jpg


CO2 Regulator

A piece of equipment that converts the high pressure of a CO2 bottle to a workable low pressure flow.

It normally comes with high and low pressure gauges and a needle valve to adjust the low pressure flow.

Popular makes include: Aqua Medic, Deltec, Tunze

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/regulatorw.jpg


CO2 Solenoid Valve

This is an electrical valve for use with CO2 gas. Passing electricity through the solenoid opens the valve which allows gas to transfer through.

Calcium reactors are used to supplement the tank with calcium and carbonates. CO2 is used to drop the pH within the calcium reactor. For a more detailed explanation on the use of CO2 please look under calcium reactors.

There are many different types of solenoid valves for different environments and working conditions. Care should be taken when choosing a solenoid valve that it is suitable for the intended working environment.

Also when connecting the valve to the CO2 source and calcium reactor you should not use ordinary silicon airline tubing as the CO2 deteriorates the silicon. Use specific CO2 tubing or RO water tubing.

Aquamedic produce a valve which is suitable for switching the CO2 feed to the calcium reactor. Also RS components have a myriad of different types.

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/AM-CO2-SOLENOID.jpg


Durso Standpipes

Durso standpipes are a means to get water from the tank to sump. The benefits of using one are as follows

Minimises the water fall in the weir, so reduces the noise level
Little noise is generated from water going down the pipe
Weir chamber becomes refugium for critters
Weir chamber will not drain during a power cut.
After a power cut the standpipe is self primingThey can easily be made cheaply out of pipe connectors.

For more information visit http://www.dursostandpipes.com/


Fish Trap

It is difficult to catch fish in an established reef with hand nets. An alternative is to use a device called a Fish Trap. This is a clear plastic box with a closing mechanism at one end. Food is placed in the trap over the course of several days and fish are allowed to enter the trap unhindered. After several days, the fish's natural caution is reduced and they (hopefully) should enter the trap. Once the desired fish has entered the trap the closing mechanism is activated and the trap is lifted out of the aquarium

Example manufacturers: Aqua Medic

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/fish_trap.jpg


Hydrometers

These are instruments for measuring the specific gravity of the salt water. The hydrometer consists of a glass stem, with a weighted bulb at the bottom to keep the instrument upright. On the stem above the bulb is a scale.

The hydrometer is placed in the saltwater and the reading is taken from the scale where the water surface meets the stem. Temperature of the saltwater affect the readings and the scale is normally calibrated at a specific temperature. If the temperature is different then a chart is used to find the actually specific gravity.

There are also swing arm type hydrometers available, whilst these are cheap. They are notoriously inaccurate.

Because of the complexity of hydrometers and the inaccuracy of the swing arm types. Refractometers or electrical monitors are a far better choice.


Nitrate Reactors

A nitrate reactor is a device that creates an anaerobic environment necessary for the colonisation of de-nitrifying bacteria. These bacteria reduce the levels of nitrates in the aquarium.

Example maufacturers: Aqua Medic, Korallin, Deltec

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/NitrateReactor.jpg

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/KorallinNitrate.jpg http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/DeltecNitrate.jpg


Ozonizers

Equipment design to produce ozone. Ozone is then injected into a ozone reactor or a suitable protein skimmer.

Instructions for using ozone should be carefully read and followed. As not only is over dosing dangerous to the tank inhabitants, but it is also dangerous to humans.

Ozone is used to remove yellowing of water,pathogens,bacteria and other toxins/chemicals in the water. The problem with the use of ozone is that it is indiscriminate and will remove good and bad.

For a more detailed description on the use of ozone in the aquarium, please read the following Reefkeeping Magazine articles:

Part 1: Chemistry and Biochemistry (http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/index.php)
Part 2: Equipment and safety (http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-04/rhf/index.php)
Part 3: Changes in the reef aquarium upon initiating ozone (http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-05/rhf/index.php)

Popular makes include: Sander, Aqua Medic

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/certizon.jpg


pH Controller

A pH controller is an instrument for measuring the pH in the aquarium. Using a probe in the aquarium, the pH is measured on an ongoing basis.

Additionally it allows you to switch on/off an electrical socket connected to the instrument at a predetermined level.

A popular use of this instrument is to be used in conjunction with a calcium reactors to switch the CO2 on/off through a CO2 solenoid valve

Popular makes include: Aquamedic, Tunze, Elatron (TMC), Weipro

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/am-phcontroller.gif


Phosphate Reactor

The most efficient way to use the phosphate removing media is to fluidise the media in an reactor. Fluidising means to put enough flow going through the reactor, so the material is just slightly moving.

Popular medias include: Rowaphos, Ultiphos, Phosban

Most reactors are of a similar design, they are basically a clear acrylic tube with the inlet being fed to the bottom of the reactor and the outlet taken from the top.

Popular makes include: Deltec, Phosban, Cleartides, Ratz,

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/FR-509.gif


Plankton Reactor

A Plankton reactor is a device to cultivate phytoplankton which can then be fed to certain tank inhabitants. Alternatively phytoplankton can be used as a food source for zooplankton such as rotifers.

Example manufacturers: Aqua Medic, Proficiensea

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/planktonreactor.jpg http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/Prof_Plankton.jpg


Refractometers

These are a handheld instruments for measuring the specific gravity/salinity of salt water. They use a lens and prisim to project a shadow line. This shadow line is viewed against a scale through the eye piece.

As salinity varies dependent on temperature, it is advisable that the refractometer bought should compensate for temperature.

Refractometers are very accurate and it is advisable to use instead of hydrometers or swing arm type hydrometers.

For a detailed description of how refractometers work, please read here http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-12/rhf/index.php

For a detailed description of specific gravity, please read here http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/1/chemistry

Example makes: Aquamedic, D&D
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/refractometer.jpg


Reverse Osmosis Unit

A reverse osmosis unit is a device to strip harmful chemicals out of tap water. It works by passing water through a membrane, which allows only water molecules through.

Please read this article on why you shouldn't use tap water http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/showthread.php?t=206314

Typically they reduce containments by 92-98%, how efficient they work depends on a number of factors such as temperature, water pressure. By adding a De-Ionisation stage (DI) you can reduce these further to 99-100%, which why it is normally advisable to use this in addition to a RO unit.

Units are rated in Gallons per Day (GPD), the figures quoted are normally US Gallons. Also, this is the output of the unit in optimum conditions.

For a more detailed description on RO units, please read this http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/index.php

Popular makes include RO-Man (www.ro-man.com (http://www.ro-man.com/))

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/3POS%20SYSTEM-thumb.jpg


SCWD Wave Device

Pronounced Squid. This piece of equipment is a simple mechanical device that can be used to alternate the flow from one outlet to another.

The recommended flow rates with this device are between 50 to 1400 gallons per hour (GPD)

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/wm_scwd.jpg


Segment Timers

These are very useful bits of equipment and have plenty of applications. They can be picked up quick cheaply at DIY stores such as B&Q etc. and Maplins. They come in two different versions analog or digital with one or more plugs.

The basic function is to set the time when a device connected to the plug socket is on or off.

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/SegmentTimer.jpg


TDS Meter

A TDS meter is an instrument to measure Total Dissolved
Solids (TDS) in water. These are minerals and salts which have been dissolved in the water.

For a detailed explanation on what is TDS, please read this article http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-04/rhf/feature/index.php

They can be purchased either as handheld units, permanently connected to the RO unit (inline), or standalone units. The handheld and inline are the most popular.

Typically it is used to test the efficiency of Reverse Osmosis Units.

Popular makes include: RO-MAN (www.ro-man.com (http://www.ro-man.com/))

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/tdsez_web-200.jpg http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/ba%20meter%20400.jpg


Test Kits

Test kits measure level of chemicals with in the tank. There are quite a different chemicals that should be measured.

The recommended levels to be measured are

Ammonia (NH4), Nitrite(NO2), Nitrate(NO3), Phosphate(PO4), Calcium(Ca), Magnesium(Mg), Alkalinity(KH), pH.

However Ammonia and Nitrite levels are not often used once the tank has cycled.

For a detailed description of reef aquarium water parameters, please read here http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php

Popular make include: Salifert is by far the most popular test kit manufacturer, with Deltec/Merck/D&D used for phosphates.

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/ampt.jpg http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/Test-kit-web-large_000.gif


Weirs

A weir is a partitioned portion of the aquarium, normally in the corners of the aquarium or in the centre. Within the weir there is a pipe that takes water down to the sump. It is generally advisable to only allow water to enter this section by overflowing over the top. This has an added advantage of surface skimming the tanks water (mentioned later). If the top of weir is left unprotected, tank inhabitants might fall/climb into the weir. So normally there is a weir comb or gauze to prevent this.

A good addition to the weir is a Durso standpipe; this enables water to be taken down to the sump quietly.

Organic and other molecules build up on the surface of the water. These molecules hinder gaseous exchange i.e. oxygen and carbon dioxide at the surface. Additionally they also block light waves and reduce the efficiency of the aquarium lights.

It is therefore advantageous to remove the surface of the water (surface skimming); ideally this water should be sent to a partition in the sump where a protein skimmer is collecting water.

maestro
09-04-07, 22:36
Auto Top up System

Used to maintain a constant water level in the aquarium, the device consists of 1 or 2 float switches or optical sensors which sit on the rim of the sump or tank, when the water level drops the device triggers a pump and water is added untill the level is reached and then the pump switches off.

You will need a fresh water ro reservoir for this device to work, this reservoir can be any container just as an old salt bucket and can be situated in the cabinet under the tank.

Many of the more advanced systems have decent safety features, just as a back up sensor and also a time limit on how long it allows the pump to run.

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/osmolarge1.JPG

Example makes are the Tunze osmolator and Aquamaster level control.


Kalk Stirrer

Kalk Stirrers are another device used to maintain calcium and alkalinity in the aquarium

Calcium hydrozide powder (kalk) is put into the bottom of the chamber, RO water is pumped into the kalk stirrer via a peri pump, when full this then forces water out of the outlet and into the tank.

Different makes of Kalk stirrers have slightly different ways in how they mix the kalk and water, the most popular make has a small powerhead inside, this can be put on a timer to run a few minute every hour, it is not necessary to run this continuously. Most are designed to overflow out into your sump. Only the Ratz can be slightly pressurised so that it can feed up to a tank above.

The amount of feed water determines the amount of calcium and alkalinty you are adding to your tank, to control this run the peri pump via a timer.

Example makes: Ratz, Deltec

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/ratz_stirrer77.JPG


Peristaltic (peri) Pump

http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2006Q4/aquadoser201.JPG

A type of external dosing pump used in conjuction with Kalk Stirrers, Calcium reactors, Auto Top Ups or just to dose various additives, they produce a very slow and precise flow rate. Some of more expensive peri pumps are also adjustable

http://animatedsoftware.com/pics/pumps/animperi.gif
animatedsoftware.com

How they work

A flexible tube is pinched by rollers which pushes the liquid being pumped along the tube at a consistent and measurable rate. Has the advantage of being able to handle any liquid without the pump mechanism coming in contact. Can run dry and are self-priming.

Example makes are Willamson Aquadoser, Watson Marlow