deltec hlp 4745

[white widow]

any one help got a prob with my pump... pump is getting hot and cutting out...bled the pump and still the same, dont seem to be any air in it anyway.. it is the new type with the hex bolt at the back of pump...one thing i did notice is when i bled the pump i did,nt get a dribble of water out of the back of the pump where the hex bolt is.....is this corect...im shaw i have before when ive bled other hlp,s....:(

[fishybiz]

Has the pump got a red dot on the top of the pump? If so it is one of the newer types and can be bled from the back of the pump via the hexagonal nut.

To bleed the new type simply loosen the hexagonal nut so air can escape and then pressurise the pump by closing down the tap on the outlet pipe if fitted. Close for a couple of seconds and then reopen. Do this a couple of times.

Usually you will see air bubbles inject into the aquarium from the pipe in the tank. You can also quickly open and close the tap on the inlet pipe as well to assist in bleeding the pump. Don't forget to retighten the hexaganol nut after bleeding.

It is recommended that a shut off valve/tap is fitted on both inlet and outlet pipes for removal of the pump for servicing. If you don't have a shut off valve then you will have to pressurise the pump by putting your hand over the return pipe in the tank and then releasing the water to obtain the same action as shutting off a tap.

Sometimes hlp pumps will run hot if they need a clean. Remove the pump from the system and cap off the inlet pipe with a plastic bag and elastic bands or use the screw on end cap supplied with the pump. Fill pump with white vinegar or Rowa Eze clean that D-D supply and allow to soak for a few hours. Then flush out fully with tap water making sure you don't get water in any of the electrics. DO NOT SUBMERGE THE PUMP IN WATER. This will fully clean the impellor housing in the pump. Only remove the front face plate if the pump is really dirty and soaking the impellor housing will not clean the pump properly.

Most issues we have with hlp pumps is that they are not cleaned on a regular basis. Snails get trapped between the impeller and the pump casing along with calcium deposists and this will cuse the pump to run hot along with reduced pumping power.

If your pump is the older type without the red dot then come back and i will tell you how to bleed it as it is slightly different method of bleeding.

Regards,

Leigh Dawson
D-D

[white widow]

yup it is the new 1 with the red dot and hex at the back...

had a few of these hlps

... to be honest i would not buy any thing else as pump must be near silent as poss...

it is like the pump wants bleeding... ie pump gets dam hot to touch and usally about 15-20 mins from start up it cuts out..:annoyed: not noisy thu,

already soaked the pump in 50/50 water/vingar,and checked for obstrustions..

impellor spins freely no jamming...

most say that i have not come across 1 that is single speed only...:eek:

heres the lill blitter....
http://www.ultimatereef.net/uploader/2008Q4/Picture 365_2.jpg

[Dami]

we looking left or right? :whistling:
left one looks new, right one looks like an old model.....

[fishybiz]

Can't see the red dot unless it's come off. The newer style ones have a red dot sticker placed on the top of the pump for id purposes.

Sometimes it will take 2 or 3 attempts to clear the air from the pump. Try closing and opening the tap on the pressure side quickly. Do this several times in one go with the pump running.

With my hlp's i have found that after bleeding them they take a while to cool down. You go back to them the next day and they are running nice and cool again.

I assume that the inlet pipe has not been reduced in any way as a restriction of water flow into the pump can also cause these pumps to run hotter than normal.

Leigh
D-D

[white widow]

we looking left or right? :whistling:
left one looks new, right one looks like an old model.....

the left is old style pump which you have to dismantle to get to the bleed screw on front of impellor... ie no hex bolt on back of pump..but has 3 speeds.....which is normal....

the right is the newer style with the hex bolt on back of pump ...can be bleed on system...but like i say i have not never seen 1 which has only single a speed....[no speed settings] didnt know they made them..:confused:

will have another go at bleeding it...again....:(

so leigh lets get this straight ....

pressure side is that the 1 where if u stick ur eyeball over it.... ur gonna get mighty wet...:eek:

[white widow]

no reduction on inlet pipe size is 32mm in from sump... and 25mm out to main display....dont think its blocked cos i have a spare 4040 running on it at the mo untill i sort out this prob .....
.
.:banghead: rgs chris.....

[white widow]

ohhh yeh it did have a red dot ....

it came off when cleaning... thinking about it would a 90% bend affect the flow [ reduce it so as to slow the pump down and cause over-heating] it do
es nt with the 4040, but obviously not as much pulling power..:confused:

rgs chris...:)

[Dami]

When he say's presure side, that would suggest output (25mm side)

When he's asking about restriction on the pipes, he's talking mostly about the ball valves (i imagine) a 25mm valve carries an internal bore that i smaller than a 25mm pipe. so noremally you'd fit a 32mm valve on the output side, with a 32-25mm reducer eitherside on the valve. this continues a minimum bore of the main pipe itself.

same again on the suction side, this being 32mm (using a 40mm valve with reducers)

in addition to this, although it doesn't make a huge difference, most would suggest having a minimum of 12inches of straight pipe before the union on the suction and pressure sides of the pump (regardless of valves).
water passing through joints, elbows, angles etc, create small vortechs in the colume increasing the resistance to the pump, and this can also contribute to both vibration, excess wear of the impellor, and also excess heat generated by the unit as it strains behond the resonable, within normal use.

:wave:

[Dami]

took to long writing :rolleyes::laugh:
yes you elbow may be enough to cause an issue. but you could resolve it by dramatically increasing the bore of the inlet pipe up to the valve.
:wave:

[borodaz]

these pumps not submersible ? i was planning on putting one in my return section of my sump

[Dami]

Sorry, definately not submersible....
external only....
:wave:

[borodaz]

so why dont websites state this ? what about the 4040 is this submersable ? i wanted a quiet low energy pump and these looked ideal shame no1 states they cant be placed in a sump as ive now gave measurements for my sump

[Dami]

Well look on the bright side, replacing the sump is cheaper than getting a £310 pump and £25 quids worth of pipe n fittings home and finding out it's useless.
any research or a question here would be answered quickly, so don't be upset that it's not written, if you don't ask then you won't get a reply. what made you choose this pump? have you seen them? if so, where have you ever seen one submersed?
don't worry, just buy an eheim / ocean runner. a fraction of the cost and just as good for the greater majority. :wave:

[borodaz]

wanted this bcos it is next best thing to red dragon and i want to use as less electricity as possible and want it to be silent as it is in living room, aint ever seen them submerged just assumed they could, guess i now have to look for the next best thing to a hlp lol

[Dami]

a red dragon......:whistling:

[white widow]

hi damiano....

what im gonna do is switch the pump on closed loop...:eek:

which is also 4745 and put this on the return side if it over -heats then its the pipe work... if not then its the pump;)

[Dami]

hi damiano....

what im gonna do is switch the pump on closed loop...:eek:

which is also 4745 and put this on the return side if it over -heats then its the pipe work... if not then its the pump;)

sounds like the best plan :)

[fishybiz]

When we say pressure side it is the outlet pipe of the pump and it is not recommended to have a look when running! , not unless you want your eye ball washing fully!!!

Restrictions in flow can cause these pumps to run hotter as they don't get enough water through the pump to keep it cool. I don't think the elbow should make much diffence as Deltec fit their systems with elbows straight off the sump to pipe up the hlps due to space restrictions.

Both the hlp 4040 and 4745 have the same size pipes on them - 32mm suction inlet and 25mm pressure outlet. It is a good idea to test with the other pump to see if it is the pipework or the pump itself.

As already stated ball valves can restrict the flow, so to maintain the same pipe size throughout fit the next size ball valve and use reducers to get it to fit the pipe.

For example if you have 32mm pipe fit a 40mm ball valve and fit a reducer 40mm - 32mm in each side of the tap so that it can be fitted to 32mm pipe. This way the flow is not reduced in any way. This can apply to any pump being hard piped up.

It could still be that it has trapped air in the pump. Sometimes it can take a few attempts to clear it fully.

Leigh

[white widow]

hi leigh

all ball valves are correct size nx size up as not to cause any restrictions...ie 40mm and 32mm

gonna try switching the pumps when i do water change tommorro as when disconecting the pumps lose a tad of water... and i have no salt at mo...if not then its bac to that dam bleeding.....again..:(

[Haddock]

Two Q`s:

1. The vinegar solution used. I have a 35% vinegar essens. Can this be used undiluted or do i have to mix with water. I use 3 dl of this for 10 liter of water for general equipment cleaning. Seems to do the job, so I thought it seems somewhat strong to use it undiluted. What mix is the best?

2. Does the HLP have a little axial play on the impeller i.e. the turbine wheel moving towards the suction side maybe two milli meters. Is this normal?

Dan

[kneival]

Personally I use kettle de-scaler in my HLP and have never had a problem, remember these pumps can sit in central heating systems for 10 yrs so I doubt vinegar will harm them at all.

Yes there should be a small amount of play backwards and forwards on the impeller.

HTH.

[Haddock]

Thanks.

Problem is that I really dont know what kettle cleaner is and it is not sold as a brand name where I live (Norway)

We drink coffee, not so much tea...:laugh: so no need for kettle kleaner.

Anyways, it looks like the vinegar is doing the job on the plastics and the impeller. But as long as there are acids involved, gaskets and seals will be affected and this may shorten the life of these.

Dan

[Tony D-D]

Vinegar should do the job well, i find it works better if you warm the vinegar before soaking if the calcium deposits are really stubborn. Hand hot should do.

Ive never had to resort to kettle cleaner as i find vinegar works if left for at least 24 hours.